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boxer cab security


cliveandjen

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first of all, if you havn't done so already, replace your fuel filler cap, so you have a different key. from what i have heard, they pinch your fuel cap to get the key pattern, then they come back and nick your van, without forced entry,this has happened twice to my knowledge. pete
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I have used a couple of "Frame Guard" devices from Screwfix item No 47802-82 page No 226 in current catalogue. They are a fairly simple device mounted on the door (bolted through inner skin if possible or self tappers) which can be swung over the edge of the frame. Can be locked but if used when van occupied I prefer to leave locking part off and just swing arm over. As they are mountef fairly low down they are not obviously seen from outside the vehicle and have the advantage that they can be very quickly released in an emergency. They cost £6.69 each. Hope this helps Peter
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Guest starspirit
The front seat belts will loop through the door pulls and lock into place at full stretch. I have no knowledge of how effective, or not, this would be but as it is free, unobtrusive and easy to engage it is at least a start.
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Hi, I haven't tried the seat belt idea, but it sounds good ? we purchased a length on platic covered steel wire about 0.25+ (hauser) from B&Q with a couple of "U" clamps one at either end we loop this through the 2 door handles and one of the holes in the steering wheel and lock together with an ordinary pad lock that stops them opening the doors, but i do like the seat belt idea it would do the same ? I will have to try it I do know that some people have said that the would be theives carry bolt cutters and i suppose stanly knives for the seat belts, but you can't stop someone who is determined ?? I also leave the alarm on when we are in bed so the steel wire and i suppose the seat belt will allow them to open the soor sufficiently to trigger the alarm but not allow them access ? hope this helps Brian
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The dealer fitted his "patent" device to our Ducato when we bought it.  However, it involves getting inside the door linings and drilling a couple of holes.

Holes 1 are at the bottom corners of the slam edges of the cab doors.  You must first remove both door linings and cut through the moisture barriers behind these.  You insert steel (galvanised or stainless) eyebolts (the type with a threaded stud and nut fixing) through into the door cavity and fit and tighten the nuts in the cavity.  Then repair the moisture barrier with duct tape (or if you're really proud of you van you can replace the barriers with new for about £7 each!) and replace lining etc as before.  The eyebolt must be placed as low down as possible, but so that it does not obstruct opening or closing of the door, yet reasonably accessible while seated inside with the door closed.  Then make holes two through the seat bases, again as low as possible, and as nearly opposite those on the doors as possible, and insert similar eyebolts through these.  (You may find you can remove one of the handbrake fixing bolts and use a similarly threaded eyebolt in lieu, thus no hole to drill that side.) 

Having reached the stage with both pairs of (nearly opposite) eyebolts in, measure the distance between each pair and hunt down two bottle screws (the sort used to tighten straining wires on fencing or small boat fixed rigging) of appropriate length to link the eyebolts.  The originals were galvanised with open hooks each end (fencing type) but I later found stainless ones with "Karabiner" type spring latches in a small boat chandlers, which are much better finished.  Insert hooks/spring latches into the pairs of eyebolts, and tighten bottle screws until taught.  Result: bottom corners of doors rigidly attached to seat bases.

The only practical way in then, is to break the window and climb in through that.  Fishing for the bolt through the broken window might just be possible, but you'd be stuck with your bum a bit vulnerable for the duration - and it's a long reach down to the bottom of the door!  Possible, of course, and many car thieves don't seem that bright, so may not see/care about the risk.

However, they aren't easily seen from outside, so, even with a broken window, it isn't that easy to see why the door won't open.  Not an immediate deterrent, therefore, but a pretty good impidement to entry.  However, better I think, than looping webbing or wires between the inner door handles, as these are only a thin plastic skin over a foam core, so designed to break up in an accident.  One hefty pull, and I think one or other handle would simply yeild.

Using seatbelts I don't think would, actually, work, although it may be something of a deterrent.  There will be some give in the fully extended belt, remember they are designed to stretch a bit on impact.  I'd guess you could force the door edge open just enough to get a blade to the strap.  Then, you've been robbed, and you can't legally drive until you replace the cut seatbelt!

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It concerns me sometimes to the lengths some people go to make their van secure. What worries me is the need to get out quickly in the dark if there was a fire or such like. With some security devices it would take some time to open the doors from the inside. We only have the standard door locks locked and the van alarm on (with the interior sensors turned off) at night. We have practised getting out of the van, we are lucky we have a panel van with the rear doors which we can use in an emergency. I'd hate to try it at night with smoke about. So please before you secure your van like fort knox think about how you would get out in the dark with smoke about. Don
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[QUOTE]Don Madge - 2006-07-31 1:46 PM It concerns me sometimes to the lengths some people go to make their van secure. What worries me is the need to get out quickly in the dark if there was a fire or such like. With some security devices it would take some time to open the doors from the inside. We only have the standard door locks locked and the van alarm on (with the interior sensors turned off) at night. We have practised getting out of the van, we are lucky we have a panel van with the rear doors which we can use in an emergency. I'd hate to try it at night with smoke about. So please before you secure your van like fort knox think about how you would get out in the dark with smoke about. Don [/QUOTE]

God, Don, we never use them when in the van, for exactly the reason you state. 

You're dead right, I just never thought it would be necessary to point this out! 

This is to stop the naughty boys and girls getting in while the 'van is parked/unoccupied. 

If you feel you need to resort to such extreme measures while you're in occupation, you've stopped in the wrong place. 

Move!

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We purchased a small ratchet and belt used to secure loads on trailers etc, the straps have hooks on the ends just wrap these around the door handles (the big ones you use to pull the door shut) so the hooks hook onto the straps, tighten the ratchet and the doors are secure. to open, release the ratchet, unhook the straps and off you go. Cost at a local store was £1.00. These straps are availiable from a lot of the "everything a pound shops"
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We have decided to go down the electric dead lock route, on cab doors and mechanical dead lock on the rear door on our Calypso. This will mean that we can really secure the van from outside when leaving the vehicle. Whilst sleeping inside we will operate the hidden switch for the front doors and just bolt the rear door on the inside. Hopefully this will provide easy exit if necessary. Dave (Newell) is fitting them for me and I will let you know how it goes. Roy.
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[QUOTE]Roy - 2006-07-31 4:33 PM We have decided to go down the electric dead lock route, on cab doors and mechanical dead lock on the rear door on our Calypso. This will mean that we can really secure the van from outside when leaving the vehicle. Whilst sleeping inside we will operate the hidden switch for the front doors and just bolt the rear door on the inside. Hopefully this will provide easy exit if necessary. Dave (Newell) is fitting them for me and I will let you know how it goes. Roy.[/QUOT Roy, I don't know what Dave would do without us. I've been watching his web cam today and he had locked up shop at 3pm 8-) He's doing a couple of jobs for me at Malvern as well, at least you know the works being done properly and he does not charge £65 per hour. On the other hand he does not have a jacuzzi and you have to make your own coffee at his workshop. :-D Don
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Hi Don, you don't have to make your own coffee any more, I've got a coffee maker now! I locked up early because I had no jobs booked in and I can do my writing at home. I suppose this is a downside to having the webcam in the workshop, people can see whether I'm there or not *-) . By the way, the one problem with straps between the cab door handles is that your potential thief only needs to break the window and cut the strap then he's in! The other potwntial problem is that very often a good hard pull on the door will either rip the handle off or just break it. The deadbolts I'm fitting for Roy next week are mounted in the cab doors and fire a 14mm dia brass pin into the "B" post. You would need a crow bar to open the doors, even if they got past the door locks. D.
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Hi Mark & Gail, Dave is supplying and fitting the locks. If you email Dave : dave@davenewell.co.uk - maybe he will be able to give you the details you require. Don - I know what you mean, but somebody has to pay for all the work he has done on his own van. Maybe we should have had a whip round for him - it would have been cheaper. As you say, getting RELIABLE jobs done is the most important thing. Roy
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Don and Roy, Thanks for the vote of confidence lads. No need for a whip round (don't let Clive hear you mention whip(s) or he'll want to play too (well till he realised it involves putting his hand in his pocket) (only kidding Clive). (lol) For those who are interested here is a link to my website, http://www.davenewell.co.uk/ if you click on the security heading you will find the deadbolts information. Thank you, D. *-)
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[QUOTE]Dave Newell - 2006-07-31 5:57 PM Don and Roy, Thanks for the vote of confidence lads. No need for a whip round (don't let Clive hear you mention whip(s) or he'll want to play too (well till he realised it involves putting his hand in his pocket) (only kidding Clive). (lol) Thank you, D. *-)[/QUOTE] Clive would be well at home in Yorkshire with his short arms and deep pockets :-D Don
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[QUOTE]Dave Newell - 2006-07-31 5:25 PM Hi Don, you don't have to make your own coffee any more, I've got a coffee maker now! I locked up early because I had no jobs booked in and I can do my writing at home. I suppose this is a downside to having the webcam in the workshop, people can see whether I'm there or not *-) . By the way, the one problem with straps between the cab door handles is that your potential thief only needs to break the window and cut the strap then he's in! The other potwntial problem is that very often a good hard pull on the door will either rip the handle off or just break it. The deadbolts I'm fitting for Roy next week are mounted in the cab doors and fire a 14mm dia brass pin into the "B" post. You would need a crow bar to open the doors, even if they got past the door locks. D.[/QUOTE] Dave wouldn't a determined theif still just break the windows and climb through Dead bolt's or not ?
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If you havent had one pinched then i suggest you leave the doors open, I have and i have loads of security fitted to the replacement so they will go elsewhere. Just think you return home after a 30 minute trip and there`s a big space where your van should be. steel gates forced Gone forever including the £1000 quids worth of gear that i got £250 to replace and a ten page claims form to fill in. I believe they stole the deisel cap and returned, i have changed the new one for £6 I have fitted all sorts of things to slow the light fingered @@@@ down but im never complacant they see it they want it. its up to you to make it harder to steal. Pete Pete
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Guest starspirit
Good idea - it's on page 181 on current calalogue but beware £5.95 carriage for Screwfix orders under £45. Perhaps something similar exists in B&Q?
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Guest starspirit
See page 180 item 49530-79 for key operated rack bolts - or Screwfix.com or your local diy shop. Fitting them means getting inside the door to the gubbins and is a bit fiddly but it is secure and does look neat. Just as long as you can find the key and insert and turn it several times in the dark and in a hurry to get out if you need to?
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Hi Breakaleg, as regards changing the fuel filler cap, how do they manage to nick the lockable filler cap which is locked with the ignition key and then come back with a new key which they would have needed to nick the cap. the new key would also have to have the transponder in it to work the ignition and these are not given out without code authorisation via the dealer, perhaps I am missing something.....
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This has nothing to do with securing the doors, (as mentioned earlier there are easier ways to gain entry) but what I have done for years is to slide the seat tight against the steering wheel and put the clasp of a good quality lock through a hole drilled in one of the seat runners. Its makes it impossible to get behind the wheel until removed adding a few more minutes before you can drive off. (Time is usually the best deterrent when it comes to auto theft.) Howard.
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Hi Michelle, you are quite right, dead-bolts on the cab doors won't stop them breaking the windows but the question was how to secure the doors not the windows. As Spartan says, if they want it they'll have it, all you can do is make it difficult/time consuming so they'll give up and go elsewhere. D.
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