Hughmer Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 In the Medoc just now, on a site and on mains.The (3 way) fridge is misbehaving. Last week I noticed the gas kicked in (The gas valve gives a clonk) so assumed we'd had a power cut.... but checked the mains telltale LED which indicated it was still connected and within moments the gas had turned itself off and all was normal so went with theory that a power cut HAD occurred but sorted itself in the time I was rushing about. Today the piezo started sparking but there was no reassuring clonk from the gas valve. But we did have a red warning light (i.e. no supply of AC or gas) on the fridge. But we also had a confirming LED to say incoming mains volts also good. Checked gas... supply good. Checked mains voltage (assuming it to be low) and it was hovering around 230v. Piezo went through start routine, but still no clonk from gas valve, - and no flame. Fridge warning light still on. Turned fridge off then back on. Piezo went through start routine again, - no clonk and still no flame. Did this a few times. Got the manual and checked web for similar problems. After 25 mins of research, I noticed red warning light had gone out , - so fridge working Unplugged incoming mains... gas valve clonk... piezo start. Flame good. Fridge running on gas... GOOD Re-plugged mains. Gas valve clonk. Flame goes out. running on mains... GOOD Checked mains voltage. 220... Hmmmmmm??? Here's the question. Can the pcb not cope with 230 volts Have I got another problem? Is it a relay function. I notice there is one (to the left of the picture) If I have to renew the pcb or heater element, anyone know how, - and are spares available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennyhb Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Unlikely to be the mains voltage causing a probably I suspect it's been running OK in the UK on 240v & the mains will only supply the heating element. It's more likely to be the control circuit on the PCB or the 12V supply. Need to check the 12v supply, also if your battery as a duff cell it could cause a the 12v to be noisy with a lot of spikes, some chargers rely on the battery to smooth the supply like cars do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Most (all?) of europe including Uk is nominaly 230v so that shouldn't be problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughmer Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 lennyhb It's more likely to be the control circuit on the PCB or the 12V supply. Need to check the 12v supply, also if your battery as a duff cell it could cause a the 12v to be noisy with a lot of spikes, some chargers rely on the battery to smooth the supply like cars do. I think the electobloc only sends 12 v to the fridge when the engine is running and it's quite a lot of amps. I haven't been running the engine cos I'm on hook up so wonder if you can shed more light on your thoughts about spikes. Don't think battery is duff. The charge meter has been on nil for about 5 weeks so at most there's a very small trickle going in If it is the pcb as you suggest, any idea how to fit a new one? Does I got to demount the fridge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted July 19, 2013 Share Posted July 19, 2013 Hughmer - 2013-07-18 7:13 PM lennyhb It's more likely to be the control circuit on the PCB or the 12V supply. Need to check the 12v supply, also if your battery as a duff cell it could cause a the 12v to be noisy with a lot of spikes, some chargers rely on the battery to smooth the supply like cars do. I think the electobloc only sends 12 v to the fridge when the engine is running and it's quite a lot of amps. I haven't been running the engine cos I'm on hook up so wonder if you can shed more light on your thoughts about spikes. Don't think battery is duff. The charge meter has been on nil for about 5 weeks so at most there's a very small trickle going in If it is the pcb as you suggest, any idea how to fit a new one? Does I got to demount the fridge? The RM4505 is a large AES fridge/freezer. You haven't said what motorhome you own, but I would have thought that the chances are minimal that you'd be able to replace the pcb with the appliance remaining in situ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughmer Posted November 11, 2013 Author Share Posted November 11, 2013 Update & Recommendation: I installed a 12v computer fan behind the top grille and organised additional shade to prevent the side of the van getting too warm. That seemed to sort the problem for a few days but then it started again. At Dusseldorf I questioned the Dometic techies and they promised to send me info on how to remove the pcb. Well they sent me an email but it didn't give any clue what to do. Pretty much what you should expect from Dometic I think. Back in the UK I trawled more info and found the name of Mike Rock recommended for this sort of problem. I rang him 07973440235. He's Very helpful and good natured. He confirmed immediately that this problem is down to the pcb. He offered to provide one and instructions how to do the job. I can't rate this guy highly enough. The pcb by the way is dead easy to swap over. Precaution.... disconnect power & batteries, Remove 2 poziscrews and lift away the control panel, let it hang on the wires. remove 2 more screws and slide out a metal tray. The pcb is secured to the tray with 3 screws. prise off the lid and swap the connections onto the new board. There's about 10 wires so make a careful note - or do them one by one. screw the new board to the tray. Replace tray. Replace control panel, being careful not to trap any wires. Fingers crossed, that's it sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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