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Fire in an Autotrail


michele

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Not literally , Someone please type me through this fire . For gods sake we are at the end of our tether here . Having bought the van in Summer we never needed it . We took it away last winter and whilst away found we had no electric fire or blown air . We brought it back took it somewhere as recommended by Elite Motorhomes as being closer . We thought that was it job done , you tend to trust people if they say its been repaired and is now working .

It had its annual hab three weeks ago and again we asked if they could look and repair the fire . We were called , come collect we collected and asked if it was working we had a discussion about it but were assured it was working .

 

Hello its not working . Are we doing something wrong do I have to buy the manual just to light an electric fire ? I have done the RTFI bit and still no electric fire ...what are we doing wrong help . We would like to use the van in Nov but somehow worried about the amount of gas we can take to stay warm plus the cost . We must be doing something wrong .

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I've downloaded Auto-Trail's 2012 brochure which indicates that the space-heater fitted to your Frontier Chieftain will probably be a Truma S-3002 'convector fire' model that can run on gas, 230V or both.

 

I've also downloaded the 2012 Auto-Trail Owner's Handbook for Frontier models and this document includes two pages relating to the S-3002 heater. The first page deals with operating the heater on gas (that you are able to do) and the second page covers operating the heater on 230V and using the Trumavent Blown Air Heating System.

 

Truma's own Operating Instructions for the "Ultraheat" 230V option for S-3002 appliances can be found here

 

http://dealer.truma.com/_anweisungen/Truma-Katalog/pdf_verzeichnis/30_000/30030_72100.pdf

 

In principle, this heater is pretty straightforward, which is why there is no trouble-shooting information in Truma's instructions. There is fault-finding advice relating to Ultraheat in this 2009 forum thread:

 

http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Truma-3002-el-problems/15854/

 

Unfortunately, with no practical experience of these heaters, I can't guess whether there's an actual fault or you just need to do something simple to get the beggar to work.

 

(Presumably you have a blown-air capability now and it's just 230V operation that is not functioning?)

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Derek oh Derek , you are so kind especially to have taken the time to go look for us. Situation is we called Elite asked to speak to an engineer . He said the heat wouldn't be instant so we left it on and walked away .

 

We have heat now hooray but, we still have no blown air whilst on electric ? ..Are we right in thinking we should have ? maybe its us maybe the gas is only when you can have blown air . Thanks Derek for your help x

 

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.....I have some experience of Truma convectors with Ultraheat added (though in a previous incarnation), and, IMO the operation controls (and the description of their use) leaves quite a lot to be desired. (I feel the same about the Combi). The Carver equivalent of the convector, that Truma bought out, was considerably more intuitive in its use.

 

If you have blown air on Gas (and I think you do), then you should (problems aside) be easily able to use this on electric only.

 

As you have now found, it takes a bit of time for the electric heat exchanger to warm up when used by itself. Once it has reached an appropriate temperature, the blown-air capability shoud work in the same way as if you are using gas.

 

So, the electric heating should be on a wall switch with a thermostat, and Truma's recommendation for this (used alone) is as follows:

 

For an average room temperature of about 23 °C, we recommend a thermostat setting of about 6 – 8.

 

In order to get the blown air working (even with electric source), the fan switch on the fire itself should be used. Again, the Truma recommendation for this, again, is:

 

When using electrical only we recommend to set the fan control on position 3 (manual or auto), remembering to set the output level to 2000 W (ensure that the fuse protection for the power supply of the camp site is sufficient).

 

...so, unless there are problems, or the required 12v and/or 240v supplies aren't switched on, following the recommendations above should give you blown air on electric (if you use the "auto" setting on the fan switch on the fire, rather than "manual", it may not kick-in until it's warmed up a bit).

 

For info, the electric option simply supplies an element "tacked on to" the heat exchanger at the back of the fire that the gas burner, when in use, also heats up. This is why the blown air switch on the fire is still relevant on electricity only.

 

HTH

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had a similar problem (not with autotrail) and had to go back to the dealer to get a remote sensor fitted by the habitation door as the actual thermostat fitted kept cutting out even after being replaced, no works a treat and can stay on 24/7 without cutting out.
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Kelly thanks for the help & photo muwah x

 

And everyone else thank you very much also ...gonna look into this a little further tomorrow and see what happens but as its stands at the mo we can have gas & air or just the electric chair :D will get back to you all tomorrow 8-)

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Hi Michele,

from memory yours is a 2012 bought just before mine so I am pretty sure we have the same equipment, just a different layout - are you aware that the electrical heater has a separate on/off switch on the control unit in the from drivers side overhead locker?

 

The fire itself has two knows - the left hand side is the gas which works independently, the right hand side is the blower.

 

The electrical side has the switch I mentioned above on the main control unit in the locker, you should have 3 switches next to the reverse polarity light; battery charger, water heater and room heater.

 

Once the room heater is switched on you need to select the power output in the control panel over the door - there are 3 settings, 500w, 1000w and 2000w. You need to turn the outer ring to one of the values (lets say 2000w) and then set the thermostat (the numbered dial on the inner portion of the ring) to something sensible, say 5.

 

Hopefully that should start warming up.

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kelly58 - 2013-10-14 3:13 PM

Hi Michelle

On the top of the heater is a knob which the outer ring operates the fan O = off A = Auto M = Manual turn to Auto then the inner ring of the knob turn to say 5 this is the heat setting or thermostat setting . see photo

Hi Kelly, I think this is a different model to what is fitted to the 2012 Frontier range.
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Thanks Sean, I wouldnt be aware because i am the thick OH lol. He is aware he's much more intelligent :D Don't know why he married me haha. ..Nope we defo have no blown air on electric but we do have electric working now . .Simple question from a simple person lol..Gas & Air and Electric & Air ? right or wrong oe electric on its own ?.atleats when we know that answer we should know either one way or the other its working or not .
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I would never insinuate anyone is thick, different people focus on different things - I am a technical specialist so instinctively focus on the detail, my wife on the other hand has to ask which which does which lights (admittedly they are a bit confusing)....

 

Anyway... what is odd with the situation you describe is that the blower is independent of any heating - I can leave the gas and 240v heater off and turn the blower on and it will block cold air throughout the motorhome. Does yours not do that or have I misunderstood your description?

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sean.clarke - 2013-10-14 8:09 PM
kelly58 - 2013-10-14 3:13 PM

Hi Michelle

On the top of the heater is a knob which the outer ring operates the fan O = off A = Auto M = Manual turn to Auto then the inner ring of the knob turn to say 5 this is the heat setting or thermostat setting . see photo

Hi Kelly, I think this is a different model to what is fitted to the 2012 Frontier range.
My 2012 Savannah has the Combi 4 GE, so pretty sure mine is differant to Michelle's, controls over entrance door, two rotary knobs, one 1-5 heat control,and heat alone or heat and hot water. other knob Heat source, gas and electric, or electric only and 2 levels 900w or 1800w. Heat controlled by remote sensor in kitchen area, (right where the kettle dicharges steam !!) This unit has NOT been the most reliable either, after a fuse blew on the control board, in the depths of last winter. NOW i always carry an alternative source of warmth (oil filled radiator). just in case ! . RayNo individual control of fan, it is either '747 jet taking off' or so quiet you cannot tell that it's on at all.Truma = Trauma
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sean.clarke - 2013-10-14 9:57 PM

 

Anyway... what is odd with the situation you describe is that the blower is independent of any heating - I can leave the gas and 240v heater off and turn the blower on and it will block cold air throughout the motorhome. Does yours not do that or have I misunderstood your description?

 

Indeed; if all is working normally and the fan is switched to manual on the fire, air will be blown, regardless of the lack of any heat input.

 

If heat is being supplied electrically by switching on the trumaheat control on the wall, blown air still needs the blower to be turned on at the 'fire' (though the gas can be left turned off).

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