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Habitation Service


Suda

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I think it is best to ask the company who do the habitation service what they cover, if it's a coach built the big thing is the damp test but also gas electric etc. they should give you a check list of all the things they should do.

I made the mistake of taking mine to Webb's in Reading for it's second year hab service which is where it was purchased from.

They actually managed to break more things that they fixed, among this was denting the habitation door and breaking the tap in the shower room as they left water in the system and the toilet in mid January when the Temp was -6c. how professional for a main dealer £230 for the privilege

 

Now I go to a local company who charge £100 and manage to fix things and do a very good job

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Bought my van from Webbs Reading Nov. 2009 ,I will never set foot on their premises again,and my van cost 58k. As for habitation service ,3 vans over last 10years, 2brand new, never had any hab service ,waste of money in my view,just have a gas check,damp test often you can get mobile person for this,then use your brains and lots bucks
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Waste of money always do everything myself there nothing difficult to do on a Motorhome, Truma heaters do not need servicing all you really need to do is check electrical/gas/& water systems are functioning & no water or gas leaks. Clean the fridge flue every couple of years & check flame is burning correctly.

 

Although if you do not have a good damp meter worth getting a proper damp check done every year but it will only be as good as the person doing it and the equipment they are using.

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Webbs offered no apology, it was a 70 mile round trip for me, they had it for a week because they don't do while you wait hab service I had to drop off and pick up on a Sat Morning because of work.

The remote central locking wasn't working properly on the hab door and that was one of the things I wanted sorted under warranty.

It was -6c when I went to pick it up and they had parked it so close to the next MH I could only just get in the drivers door let alone check the hab door, I had to get back home as I was working that day.

Got home checked the central locking and it didn't work then I saw the dent in the door, phoned them straight back to complain and they said it was there when I brought it in...........BS ... I had the inspection sheet which said there was no dent.

I had to take it back to them on the Monday(70 miles again) ..I waited while they fixed the hab door central locking, they agreed the dent was not there before...no apology.. they just said they would have to order in the graphics from Adria, they would need it for a week to send to a body shop as they didn't have one, called them six weeks later.... no graphics in yet and never heard from them again.

 

I didn't want anyone from that dealer ever working on my MH again. I reluctantly decided to live with the dent, it is only small but that was not the point.

I guess they must have some happy customers but I am not one of them.

 

My other Adria came from Premier in Chichester who have been very good in sorting a couple of other warranty issues on this MH for me. Didn't even have to drive down there just sent them some photos and they ordered in the parts. Worlds apart

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I had my most recent Habitation check and Fiat cab service done by Calder Valley motorhomes in Ravensthorpe, West Yorkshire. They weren't the cheapest, but then the price included a courtesy car, they did a good thorough job, took extra care with plastic seat covers, paper over the habitation carpets etc.. They were good people and Martyn took the time to walk me round the van on collection... I would recommend them to others.

 

I have used mobile guys for repairs, damp checks, pre purchase inspections, replacement skylights, etc... on previous vans, Howard at leisure vehicle maintenance for example, I would also recommend him to anyone in the area.

 

On the other hand, I would avoid Elite motorhomes with every inch of my body... I went to view a van I wanted to purchase, they told me the pdi was done, van was excellent, etc.. I spent a long time discussing with the guy on the phone about condition and then wasted a 6hr round trip to find the van was wet through, had other issues and was not fit to be sold to anyone. If that's how they see fit to sell a vehicle, I dread to think how thorough their hab checks are!!!

 

All of the above is just my opinion and experience of course.. You pay your money and take your chance

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I believe dealers can only enforce the rule,no hab service,no warranty 2nd or3rd yrs.if you agree and sign to these terms conditions, I refused as I personally believe they have to honour genuine faults attributed to faulty manufacturing. & or design, I may be wrong, dave
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Suda - 2013-10-22 4:06 PM

 

Please can you tell me what a habitation service covers and if there are no problems, what is an average price. Thanks

It should cover this lot.

Happy reading. :D

If you think anyone is going to do this lot you are wishing on a star.

 

Recommended Annual Habitation Service Check

INTRODUCTION

There is much confusion over the annual habitation service or check for motorhomes, with widely varying prices and standards of work. However a 'standard checklist' is used by many dealers when carrying out this work, but it seems that many owners are not aware of this, or of what checks should be included. We suggest that owners should ask for the 'SMMT Annual Habitation Service Check' to be carried out. Competent owners may wish to use the published checklist when carrying out their own maintenance.

The following guidelines for the checking and servicing of a motorhome's habitation area are taken from the guidance booklet published by the Motorhome Section of the Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders (SMMT) and the Motorhome Division of The National Caravan Council (NCC). They are © SMMT & NCC and reproduced here with their kind permission. We would like to thank them for providing this information and also thank The Motorhome Information Service for their assistance.

The checks do not cover any part of the base vehicle, although there may be minor overlapping (such as tyre pressures, cab seats, internal lights, battery and windows) in a van conversion. The base vehicle must be serviced in accordance with the chassis manufacturer's instructions.

Reference should also be made to:

1. Any owner's manual or equivalent supplied with the vehicle by the motorhome manufacturer.

2 Appliance manufacturers' leaflets.

3. Driver s handbook or equivalent supplied by the chassis manufacturer.

A vehicle is accepted for service at the dealer's discretion.

Any defects, repairs, adjustments, cleaning or lubrication required will be noted on the check list.

The customer's approval will be obtained before any work is done.

Not all of the equipment mentioned in this manual is fitted as standard to every motorhome

Any work carried out following the check, and the sufficiency of the work in the check itself, is subject to the contract between the customer and the dealer. The National Caravan Council (NCC) & SMMT and their member companies are not part of this contract, and accept no liability in contract, tort or otherwise, other than death or personal injury due to negligence on their part.

SECTION 1

BODY MOUNTING

1.1 BODY TO CHASSIS

Examine all fixings retaining the body to the chassis - this may be direct or through a sub-frame.

Where practical, all fittings should be checked to ensure they are all present and correctly secured.

1.2 BODY TO CAB

Examine joint between body and cab for signs of movement and soundness of sealing media.

1 .3 BODY RETENTION (Dismountables)

Check serviceability and tightness of body retaining gear.

Check serviceability of body support struts and mountings.

(Note - whether it will be necessary to demount the body to check the

body supports must be agreed between dealer and customer).

SECTION 2

WINDOWS

2.1 WINDOWS

Check window glazing rubber or sealing for cracks and general condition.

Check for satisfactory opening and closing.

Check fixing of top hinge rail on top hung windows.

Check for good weather seal when window is closed and latched.

Check catches and stays for satisfactory operation.

SECTION 3

DOORS

3.1 EXTERNAL DOORS

Not including base vehicle doors.

3.1.1 SECURITY

Check that hinges and catches are satisfactory and that, when latched, doors are held securely shut.

Check that keys or internal latches lock the doors correctly.

Check that any device fitted to hold a door in the open position is satisfactory.

3.1.2 SEALING

Check all door seals for cracking and general condition. Check correct closing to give a weather-tight seal.

3.1.3 CHILDPROOF LOCK

Where a door is fitted with a childproof lock, check that an appropriate warning notice is fixed adjacent to the door.

Appropriate warning notices are available from motorhome manufacturers.

3.2 INTERNAL DOORS

3.2.1 SECURITY

Check that hinges and catches are satisfactory and that, when latched, the door is held securely shut.

3.2.2 SAFETY

Check that any device fitted to hold a door in the closed position can be operated from both sides to open the door in an emergency.

SECTION 4

ATTACHMENTS TO CHASSIS OR UNDERBODY

4.1 CORNER STEADIES

Check that attachments to chassis are secure. Ensure steadies work freely and satisfactorily.

Lubricate screw to ensure correct operation.

4.2 FOLDING/RETRACTABLE STEPS

Check that step pivots are satisfactory and not worn. Check that, when closed, the retaining mechanism holds the step securely. If fitted, check warning device is working.

4.3 UNDERFLOOR WATER TANK MOUNTINGS

Check mounting frames are secure to body. Any fastenings that require releasing to remove the tank should be free of rust and operate freely. (Removal, flushing, cleaning and replacing of tanks will be carried out at the prior request of the customer or will be done subsequently with other work).

4.4 SPARE WHEEL

Remove spare wheel. Check for damage. Check tyre pressure.

Check mounting frame for security to body and for secure retention of

spare wheel.

4.5 WHEELBOXES

Check for damage, corrosion, water seepage, signs of tyre rubbing.

SECTION 5

ATTACHMENT TO BODY EXTERIOR

5 1 ROOF LIGHTS

Check security, general condition, and that sealing has not deteriorated.

5.2 ROOF RACKS AND LADDERS

Check security to body and general condition.

Check roof for damage adjacent to rack.

5.3 MOULDINGS, TRIMS

Check security. Check sealing has not deteriorated (see section 6).

5.4 FLUE TERMINALS, AIR VENTS

Check security. Check sealing has not deteriorated.

Check that these are not blocked.

SECTION 6

INTERNAL

6.1 BODY SEEPAGE CHECK

Examine for moisture/water staining of areas under windows, at side of roof and at corners which could indicate water seepage problems.

A moisture meter should be used where appropriate.

6.2 FURNITURE

Check furniture is securely fixed.

Check door hinges, catches and stays for satisfactory operation.

6.3 DINETTE SEAT/BEDS

Check seat bases for security of fixings and for damage.

Make up beds according to manufacturer's instructions and check for

rigidity and safety.

6.4 UPPER BUNKS

Check there is a secure means of access to upper bunks and that, where applicable, protection against falling out and entrapment is provided.

6.5 CURTAINS/BLINDS/NETS

Check track is secure and curtains draw freely without snagging.

Check blinds and/or nets for correct operation.

Check flyscreens in roof lights and air vents.

6.6 CAB SEATS

Where cab seats form part of the living area and/or bed layout they should be checked for security of attachment, smooth and easy operation of seat slides, swivels and seat back operation.

6.7 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

Check condition and expiry date. If an extinguisher is not fitted, inform the customer of the advisability of such equipment.

6.8 FIRE BLANKET

Check position (should be near cooker).

If one is not present, inform the customer of the advisability of such equipment.

6.9 ADVICE TO OCCUPIERS WARNING NOTICE

Check presence and condition and advise accordingly

The wording and the layout of the notice should be set out as follows:

ADVICE TO USERS

VENTILATION

NO NOT OBSTRUCT THE VENTILATORS WHICH ARE FITTED; YOUR SAFETY DEPENDS ON THEM

IN CASE OF FIRE

1. GET EVERYONE OUT

2. TURN OFF OUTSIDE GAS VALVE OR OIL VALVE (IF FITTED)

3. DISCONNECT THE MAINS ELECTRICITY SUPPLY

4. RAISE THE ALARM AND CALL THE FIRE BRIGADE

5. TACKLE THE FIRE IF SAFE TO DO SO

FIRE PRECAUTIONS

CHILDREN: DO NOT LEAVE THEM ALONE

MEANS OF ESCAPE: MAKE SURE YOU KNOW THE LOCATION AND OPERATION OF THE EMERGENCY EXITS, KEEP ALL ESCAPE ROUTES CLEAR

COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS: KEEP THEM CLEAR OF ALL HEATING AND COOKING APPLIANCES

FIRE FIGHTING: PROVIDE, AT LEAST, A 1 KG POWDER FIRE EXTINGUISHER, THAT COMPLIES WITH BS 5423 BY THE MAIN EXIT DOOR, AND A FIRE BLANKET NEXT TO THE COOKER. MAKE YOURSELF FAMILIAR WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS ON YOUR FIRE EXTINGUISHER AND THE FIRE PRECAUTION ARRANGEMENTS ON THE CARAVAN PARK.

6.10 PORTABLE OR OPEN FLAME HEATING EQUIPMENT

Check for its presence. The customer must be advised against its use.

SECTION 7

ELEVATING ROOFS

7.1 LIFTING MECHANISM

Gas struts or spring struts should be checked for corrosion (particularly on the piston rods of gas struts), smooth operation when operating roof up and down and to ensure that they support the roof when fully up. Check attachment points of struts to body and roof.

7.2 CANVAS SIDE WALLS

Check for satisfactory attachment to body and roof.

Check for splits or holes, particularly at fold lines.

Check that the canvas stows satisfactorily when roof is lowered.

(A waterproofing check will be done at the prior request of the

customer).

7.3 SOLID SIDE WALL

Check sides and end panels fold up and down correctly, that they seal against each other where appropriate and that retaining mechanisms are satisfactory.

Check all hinges for security and freedom from strain.

7.4 LOCKING OF ROOF

It is important to ensure that when the roof is in the travelling position, it is safely and positively locked down. Any locking retaining mechanism should be carefully examined.

SECTION 8

GAS SYSTEMS

8.1 CYLINDERS AND REGULATORS

Establish that the cylinders and regulators are compatible. Butane (blue) cylinders should have a regulator stamped with the pressure 11" WG (28 m bar) and propane (red) cylinders should be stamped 14" WG (37 m bar). Check that the regulator is controlling the gas to the correct pressure for the type of cylinder fitted.

Check cylinder compartment vents and gas drop hole in the floor are free from obstruction.

Check seals on internal doors.

8.2 HOSE AND PIPING

Check any flexible hose is of an approved type. Check its condition and for any evidence of cracking.

Check piping for condition, damage and correct support.

Carry out an overall leak test.

8.3 APPLIANCES

In general, the checking of gas appliances can be divided into the following:

1. Cleaning 4. Flues

2. Operation of controls 5. Flame failure device

3. Correct flame structure 6. Security

8.3.1 CLEANING

Where appropriate, remove cover(s) to gain access to heat exchanger.

Clean away any fluff or foreign matter. Reassemble and test.

Clean flame viewing window.

8.3.2 CONTROLS

Check that all knobs etc. work smoothly and are secure on their spindles.

If gas taps require greasing to ease stiffness, use only approved LPG grease.

Check that appliances can be brought into service using the normal controls.

8.3.3 CORRECT FLAME STRUCTURE

Check that all pilot flames burn quietly and clearly.

Refrigerator: With the refrigerator gas control turned to maximum, the colour of the flame should be predominantly blue.

Instantaneous Water Heating: The main burner flame should be of even height and blue in colour. A flame burning yellow will allow sooting to occur.

Ovens: The oven flame should burn quietly and be of even height, mainly blue/green in colour. If the gas is propane, the flame will normally develop yellow tips as the burner heats up. If the gas is butane, a small amount of yellow tipping will be seen immediately after lighting, increasing as the burner heats up.

Grill Burners: It is normal for the flames on this type of burner to develop yellow tips as it heats up, particularly on butane.

General: A flame lifting away from the burners is an indication of too high a pressure, although it may happen with grill burners whilst the frets are heating up.

A yellow flame will cause sooting and is an indication of too low a pressure.

Providing the regulator and piping have been checked and found satisfactory the above faults should not appear.

8.3.4 FLUES

Flues should be examined for security of fixing and for correct attachment to appliances and flue terminals. They should be free from damage and corrosion.

Check for leakage of flue gases into the vehicle.

8.3.5 FLAME FAILURE DEVICE (FFD)

Where fitted, the FFD should be checked to ensure satisfactory operation. After the appliance has been successfully checked, allow time for the thermocouple to cool.

Attempt to relight the appliance by turning it on without pushing in the gas control knob. (Do not override the FFD). If appliance does not light, FFD is satisfactory.

8.3.6 SECURITY

Check appliance is securely fixed to the vehicle/furniture and will be free from rattles. Where applicable, check that water pipes are satisfactorily attached with no sign of leakage

8.3.7 PROTECTION OF ADJACENT SURFACES

Check that surfaces adjacent to open flame cooking appliances have adequate protection.

8.3.8 INSPECTIONS

It is recommended that inspections are carried out by a qualified fitter

trained to, for example, CORGI (Confederation of Registered Gas Installers) or Calor standards.

SECTION 9

WATER SYSTEM

Before operating the water system, a visual check of the following items may show up an obvious leak source.

9.1 FRESH WATER TANK CONTAINER

Check condition, fill tank and check for leaks.

Check the external filter and filter pipe to tank.

Check for satisfactory venting.

Check condition and presence of filter cap.

9.2 WASTE WATER TANK

Check drain tap is clear and working.

Check condition and presence of drain hose. (The water tank will be drained, flushed, cleaned and charged with a measure of toilet fluid/disinfectant at the prior request of the customer.

9.3 FILTER PUMP

When applicable, remove filter and replace.

Check the in-line pump for security and condition. Remove the

submersible pump from tank, check condition.

Check pump inlet and outlet are clear and not obstructed.

Check delivery hose and electric cable are secure and satisfactory

Operate pump. Check all piping for leaks.

Operate taps and shower. If a hot water system is fitted, it can be checked for leaks etc. using cold water.

(Note - Aerated water from tap could be due to a leak on the suction side of the pump).

With water running through the drain pipes, check for leaks and satisfactory draining of water from sinks etc.

9.6 . COUPLINGS AND FLUIDS.

Check that the appropriate markings are used - blue for fresh water, grey for waste water. Ensure a sealing off cover is supplied for each coupling. Check that filler positions are designated "petrol", "diesel", or "water" as appropriate.

9.7 TOILET WASTE TANK

Check that any fixed tank intended to receive discharge from a toilet is fitted with either a level or full indicator.

SECTION 10

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

10.1 EXTRA LOW VOLTAGE 12 VOLTS (excluding vehicle)

10.1.1 BATTERY/IES

Check battery/ies for condition.

Check connections, wires, fuses and relays appertaining to the habitation electrics.

10.1.2 WIRING

Examine all visible wiring.

Check all connections and joints are sound and satisfactory

10.1.3 FUSES/FUSE HOLDERS

Ensure that fuses and fuse holders used to protect the habitation electrics are satisfactory and that fuse ratings are compatible with the circuit appliances being protected.

10.1.4 APPLIANCES

Inspect all appliances for damage, signs of overheating and secure fixing

Function test all appliances.

10.2 MAINS 230 VOLT SYSTEM

It is recommended that the inspection and certification of the 230 volt system be carried out by a qualified electrician who is an approved contractor of the NICEIC (National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting) or in membership of the Electrical Contractors Association.

SECTION 11

VENTILATION

11.1 HIGH LEVEL

Check all high level ventilators, including roof lights, are free from obstruction and allow a free flow of air.

11.2 LOW LEVEL

Check all low level ventilators are free from obstruction and allow a free flow of air.

If the ventilator is manually adjustable then ensure mechanism is free and operating correctly.

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Just to add ...in our experience it is best to maintain the warranty by adhering to the terms and conditions which 'should' mean using a 'Brand' dealer/franchise.  We have and have saved naerly £3000 which is what the damp repairs would have cost us if we had not maintained the warranty.

 

IMO...do it right for peace of mind.  Our hab service costs £175.00 

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So, if I read this right, in terms of damp or water ingress the assumption is that if they see no evidence it's not a problem!

Just get a damp meter out if it looks like there is some staining - and have a poke about elsewhere if you can be bothered.

 

The guidelines for using a meter and to the extent of its use seems a bit vague to say the least - I wonder if that's why people have hab checks then find issues themselves at a later date.

 

If I was being cynical, what about this scenario - You take your van to the supplying dealer for its annual check, he works to the minimum guidelines set out, why would they do any more? By being too diligent he might find some damp [especially the floor] and then have all the hassle involved in repair.

 

Use your head, do your own basic checks twice a year, from what I've witnessed of late [see my other thread] you will do yourself a favour and have REAL peace of mind.

Assumption is the mother of all............

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Suda...

See the link below for a good summary of the Habitation check and copies of the checklists. www.motorhomefacts.com/habitation-service.html

 

With regards to damp, I agree with the comments that people should also check the van out themselves and more frequently than once a year. Im not sure i agree that by stains and smells is a good way, i have seen a few damp (modern) vans and none of them were visible by stains and smells... I think by that point its potentially a very big problem? I must admit, having being bitten in the past, damp is one of my biggest fears (along side the Fiat 'known' issues of course!). I since purchased a very good quality damp meter and its available for anyone locally to pop round and borrow it.. for free!

 

As we all spend very large sums of money on your vans I want to keep mine in good shape as best I can. I suspect most of us routinely look after most points on the habitation checklist and use the actual habitation check for warranty upkeep, second opinion, gas safe checks, and those jobs we are not equipped to carry out at home??

 

I do think the cost of service & hab checks is pretty high in some cases, but its in place to protect our investments to some extent. In the grand scheme of things, what I really struggle to understand is not why we complain about ~£150 for a habitation check ... but... Why we happily spend our life savings on sub standard products & workmanship in this industry in general? (including me :-))

 

A little pre bed time rant....

There is no need in this day and age for a van that costs £80k to be built in such a way that it is likely to be damp or fall apart very soon after leaving the factory! .... but we all keep buying them, we keep trading them, we give the manufacturers a very easy ride....

Equally, there are dealers/service centres out there that shouldn't be in business, rob people blind, only add to the poor reputation of the industry in general... but people keep pushing money in their direction, so they keep on doing it?!

 

I wonder what would happen if we all stopped buying the substandard junk, stopped trading with scumbags, only used the creme de la creme of manufacturers/suppliers/dealers/service centres??

How about the idea that we just maintained our current vans for a few more years until such time that it forces some quality to arrive on the conveyor belts, some value add to appear in service centres and dealerships?

 

If only it was that easy :'(

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ARJXH56, I think every word you have said is 100% spot on, there will always be rogue dealers around and not small ones at that. Some dealers have been mentioned and some haven't. I have had very good service at Richard Baldwins, they always go the extra mile, Todds, very good as well. Leisure Tech at Clitheroe, spot on. It's always best to use a trusted dealer as close to home as possible and a brand that you know offers good aftersales service.

 

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Hi Roger c, in 1999 I too lived in Wiltshire, but owned a caravan.had it serviced by supplying dealer who I trusted explicitly,dealt with them for years, I was told on collection you have damp ingress all along one side of van,I was given a diagram showing me this,due to my late wife's illness the van stood under a tree for two years,neglected! He advised me to get rid of it,2001 I part exed it with Swindon dealer,I advised it had damp ingress so before changeover the M D and chief fitter spent 20mins.testing for damp,they found NONE! Gave me a much higher p/ex than I was expecting, It seems you should never believe anyone in this trade,get 3opinions minimum on any serious issue, hope you really did have damp.regards Dave.
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peacock312 - 2013-10-23 10:14 AMHi Roger c, in 1999 I too lived in Wiltshire, but owned a caravan.had it serviced by supplying dealer who I trusted explicitly,dealt with them for years, I was told on collection you have damp ingress all along one side of van,I was given a diagram showing me this,due to my late wife's illness the van stood under a tree for two years,neglected! He advised me to get rid of it,2001 I part exed it with Swindon dealer,I advised it had damp ingress so before changeover the M D and chief fitter spent 20mins.testing for damp,they found NONE! Gave me a much higher p/ex than I was expecting, It seems you should never believe anyone in this trade,get 3opinions minimum on any serious issue, hope you really did have damp.regards Dave.

 

Hi Peacock,

Thanks for the 'wise words'.  Before going with our current 'service centre' we did a lot of research and the current one came out pretty good in terms of reputation and service attitude.  In fact the first time we used them (shower mixer tap seals blown out by winter induced ice.  Yes we did drain down/taps open etc but these things happen) there was no charge.  We were on our way for a weekend away and called in on spec to see if they could assist.  Once fixed I enquired 'what do I owe you' to be told...'nothing......have a lovely weekend'.  Now with labour charges being what they are we could easily/happily have paid out circa £20.00 for the repair/labour charge so we were well pleased.

 

Research into the dealership you intend to use is vital these days........as is keeping a close eye on the continued high standard of service.

 

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A great deal depends upon the manufacturer , dealer and customer relationship. This seems quite bad in, dare I say, 70 percent of dealers.

 

I know that my Rapido dealer habitation checks are carried out with problem areas notified from the factory where that there has been a production problem with the build or supplier of major sub contracted units units. (Heaters, fridges etc)

 

Still may be treated as "My Problem" when outside the warranty period, but at least I am aware of a pending problem.

 

Rgds

 

 

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