Wislon Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 The veneers on two or three cupboard doors on my 2005 Autocruise Starquest have delaminated. Has anyone had experience of regluing the veneer and can explain how to do it ??? Alternatively is there a vneer specialist in the Guildford area ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest peter Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Most cupboard doors these days don't have wood veneer, instead it's usually a printed paper type material. I would use waterproof PVA wood glue and wipe off any seepage straight away. This would also work on real wood veneer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 This can be caused by high humidity. Is this a possible cause in your case? It may indicate dampness in the van. Have you had it checked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyg3nwl Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Hi, I have restuck the veneer using evostick. It is a messy job but so far it is successful , I am not sure what the best solvent is to clean up overspill, but a cloth dampened with white spirit seemed to do it. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest peter Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 That's a bit weird. You ask what glue to use and a couple of hours later come back and told us you'd done it. Makes you wonder why people ask in the first place. *-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Collings Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Give the man a break Peter. he just got 'stuck in'. My first try is with a warm iron on a sheet of paper, it sometimes resets the glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverback Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 peter - 2013-11-01 9:28 PM That's a bit weird. You ask what glue to use and a couple of hours later come back and told us you'd done it. Makes you wonder why people ask in the first place. *-) think you might be aving a senior moment peter....its not the same person :-D unless i have not read it right *-) you can use an iron or hairdryer to heat up and it melts the glue..failing that split the veneer using stanley knife and inject glue and stick back down..thats the cleanest way to do it jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerC Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 peter - 2013-11-01 9:28 PMThat's a bit weird. You ask what glue to use and a couple of hours later come back and told us you'd done it. Makes you wonder why people ask in the first place. *-) Wrong........that reply was not from the OP Peter..........'eager fingers on keyboard syndrome' maybe? :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamw Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 If it's real wood veneer then a good PVA based wood adhesive would be fine however it could comprise of other materials notably melamine. Melamine is a paper film that is provided with a single-color print or pattern print and then impregnated. The finished film is applied under pressure to a board, normally a particleboard. This treatment makes the melamine surface hard wearing, heat resistant, water-repellent and easy to care for. A contact adhesive will bond this surface back in place but is usually difficult to apply to both surfaces. A liquid polyurethane glue (Evostik PU) is probably the easiest to apply in these circumstances. It could also be that the surface finish is PVC and is applied in a process called foil wrapping. This is a common finish on modern kitchen and bedroom furniture door and drawer fronts but the foil wrapping can start to lift away at the rear of the panel that it covers particularly in the circumstances that Brian describes of high humidity. It can also start to lift and curl when subjected to heat as would be the case if it was near an oven or heater. A PU adhesive will do a good job here but the foil wrapping will need holding back in place until the glue cures. Super glue will also work well on very small area of delamination providing you protect the surrounding area (masking tape). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevoboy Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Viewing new 'vans at the NEC recently, I was alarmed at the number which seemingly had "plastic" furniture door and drawer fronts. Also, when tapped with a fingernail it was obvious that many of the table tops were actually hollow. I presume this is all in an effort to keep weight down but surely the longevity of such will be compromised. Do I take it that most of the high-level locker fronts are not made from wood if they have a fairly pronounced curvature, as is the current fashion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will86 Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Plastic fronted doors, I don't see a problem and easy to clean. If you really want hardwood furniture the cost and weight will be increased. There's only one way to up the interior DIY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel B Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 nuevoboy - 2013-11-02 1:30 PM Viewing new 'vans at the NEC recently, I was alarmed at the number which seemingly had "plastic" furniture door and drawer fronts. Also, when tapped with a fingernail it was obvious that many of the table tops were actually hollow. I presume this is all in an effort to keep weight down but surely the longevity of such will be compromised. Do I take it that most of the high-level locker fronts are not made from wood if they have a fairly pronounced curvature, as is the current fashion? Table and counter tops have for a long time been 'hollow' in many vans so there's nothing new. As for 'plastic' furniture, do you mean it is 'mock' wood effect with a photofilm image on a MDF or lightweight board (again nothing new) or actual totally plastic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuevoboy Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 I'm sure some of the cupboard doors were plastic plastic. Several of them were definitely hollow, so couldn't have been the foil type embedded on MDF. Incidentally, I have been wondering what the door fronts of my 2005 Nuevo were made of and realised they weren't solid wood because of the intricate mouldings. From the information provided in some of the above replies it would appear that they must be what is described as foil wrapped. However, they are solid enough and I presume the core of them is some form of particle board. It's so good to learn this stuff from all the enlightened people on this forum. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest peter Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 silverback - 2013-11-01 9:50 PM peter - 2013-11-01 9:28 PM That's a bit weird. You ask what glue to use and a couple of hours later come back and told us you'd done it. Makes you wonder why people ask in the first place. *-) think you might be aving a senior moment peter....its not the same person :-D unless i have not read it right *-) you can use an iron or hairdryer to heat up and it melts the glue..failing that split the veneer using stanley knife and inject glue and stick back down..thats the cleanest way to do it jon You're quite right. Sorry for the mistake. :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.