Wirehaired Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Hi. I would welcome any feedback from other members on the potential damp threat or water ingress on PVs as opposed to coach built. many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 its more enlightening if you name the PVC vehicles you are talking about....Obviously a camper with wood frame, lots of screwed joints and openings,wooden floors,tacky skirts... all pretty poorly put together far more likely to suffer water ingress! It ain't rocket science *-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirehaired Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 No particular model Judgemental,just PVs in general, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Wirehaired - 2014-01-26 7:12 PM No particular model Judgemental,just PVs in general, Sorry was referring to Dovey's post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirehaired Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Thanks for reply,as you say anything with holes,i guess its a case of regular inspections of any sealed areas. many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirehaired Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Thanks got my wires crossed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Wirehaired - 2014-01-26 7:12 P No particular model Judgemental,just PVs in general, Not all panel vans are built the same, so whilst a small van might have a one piece roof, an x250 like mine has 5 (from memory) panels with beads of sealant keeping out the weather. On our old t25 a previous owner had damaged the side panel this was not fully repaired and left a leak between panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike88 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 When water penetrates a coachbuilt you are potentially in big trouble. The sandwich construction absorbs water like a sponge and drops to its lowest level which can cause the floor to rot as well as the ply inner. Often it is difficult to identify the source of a leak. A coachbuilt requires regular checks for damp as it is not always apparent from visual inspection that a leak has occurred and, when found, it can be too late to prevent expensive repairs. From personal experience it can cost thousands to repair the damage caused by leaks in bad cases. A panel van's most likely areas for leaks is around the hekkis and any opening as previously mentioned. Such leaks are easily identified and can be remedied cheaply. Tin worm is not really that much of an issue. Fiat's are galvanised although the metal is thin but should not rust as the leak can be identified reasonably quickly. When a hekki leaks for example you notice it immediately as the metal is impervious meaning water will not spread as would happen in a coachbuilt. Mercedes have thicker metal but are not galvanised as far as I know. You only have to look at the number of damp issues raised on the Swift forum, MotorhomeFacts and here to see the extent of the problem on coachbuilts. However, with a damp meter and regular damp inspections the potential for expensive repairs on coachbuilts is reduced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirehaired Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Thanks for the very informative reply,i am just about to hit the sack but would be interested to know how you like the swift mondial? looking at your avatar I take it that's what you have. thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamw Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 It's my experience that leaks are uncommon in PVC's and usually in areas already described. However, one problem that can afflict PVC's is the problem of condensation. The overcab area is usually a problem. Even if well insulated, once crammed with items and ventilation restricted it quickly becomes an area for mold growth in its far corners. If left vacated then the problem diminishes but the area is then left wasted. Auto-Trail V Line dispense with the area and hence remove the issue but I'm sure some will miss the space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike88 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Wirehaired - 2014-01-27 12:12 AM Thanks for the very informative reply,i am just about to hit the sack but would be interested to know how you like the swift mondial? looking at your avatar I take it that's what you have. thanks again. I love it. I have the rear lounge (RL) version which is long enough for us both to lounge around separately and sleep. We don't bother to make up beds as we spend nearly all of the day out of doors as we are mainly warm weather campers using the van almost exclusively abroad except for a few winter trips to follow my suffering football team - Cardiff City - about 130 miles away from my home. There is a good payload as well around 586 kgs from memory. That version is not everybody's choice but I couldn't be bothered with a double bed model as I don't want to spend half the night climbing over Mrs Mike and vice versa to use the Thetford. And double beds are just too hot in 40 degree Med climates. You can make the singles into a double but we don't usually bother except for the occasional winter trip to Cardiff. There are possibly better vehicles out there than the Mondial especially given the price rises but I'm very happy with mine as it has a good payload and the excellent Comfortmatic gearbox. Buying abroad is possibly a cheaper option; Eddie (Judgemental) is the forum expert here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JudgeMental Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 grahamw - 2014-01-27 9:51 AM It's my experience that leaks are uncommon in PVC's and usually in areas already described. However, one problem that can afflict PVC's is the problem of condensation. The overcab area is usually a problem. Even if well insulated, once crammed with items and ventilation restricted it quickly becomes an area for mold growth in its far corners. in the almost 3 years I have had the Adria have never noticed any condensation except in the cab window in mornings. As van up for sale, I actually cleared out some lockers at weekend, and the overcab locker which I would be loathe to lose as storage tight enough thanks! Was full with stuff including toweling folding chair covers, a few bits of clothing etc..... Stuff was cold to the touch, but no damp or smell and its properly insulated up there... I understand from another thread that Possl I am getting, have a shelf under overcab locker that is uninsulated and suffers from condensation...A bit odd in what is generally a better insulated van than the Adria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirehaired Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Many thanks,that will be something to think about when buying,sounds like that overhead cab problem could afflict several similar models,would think its a case of keeping an eye on the area,that area would bev very useful for storage in a PV. Cheers Don. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirehaired Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Thanks for the report on your van,most of the time I will be using the van just myself so those single sofa beds would be ok,i am not a big chap quite slim and 5/9 so would fit on one of those no problem. cheers don. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starvin marvin Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 I concur with the comment on possible condensation, this is problematic when interstitial, ie within the air spaces of the insulation material. The cheaper the van the cheaper the material used and the use of vapour barriers will also be difficult to retain their integrity with the number of perforations for various services etc. Think timber framed housing. Can be good but can also be dreadful. I realise we're not talking of timber, just condensation, this may not be problem with "summer" camping, but winter use is a different kettle of water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamw Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 starvin marvin - 2014-01-30 11:57 AM I concur with the comment on possible condensation, this is problematic when interstitial, ie within the air spaces of the insulation material. The cheaper the van the cheaper the material used and the use of vapour barriers will also be difficult to retain their integrity with the number of perforations for various services etc. Just to add a further note to my comments on condensation. The occurrence of condensation in the overcab area will be largely down to how the van is used. Those who simply don't experience any may well be people who simply cook very little in their van. If you cook extensively and by that I don't mean a convenience meal warmed in the oven but something which involves the generation of water vapour such as boiling a pan of something then it's pretty well unavoidable. I'm in Spain at the moment and cooked a couple of Dorado (sorry sea breem) - delicious but must have caused a dew somewhere. Having had previous experience of a front lounge Murvi I found little evidence at all of the problem. Probably front lounge and front dinette models don't suffer as much as the heating is concentrated in the front and the kitchen area is further back. Rear lounge models concentrate the heating in the rear and the kitchen is up-front and therefore may well be more prone to the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirehaired Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 Thanks for reply and informative post,also thanks to starvin marvin,i am acquiring more knowledge by the day on this forum,i think the condensation problem is just something that has to be lived with,its no different from what one can experience in the kitchen at home. thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candapack Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 colin - 2014-01-26 7:28 PM Wirehaired - 2014-01-26 7:12 P No particular model Judgemental,just PVs in general, Not all panel vans are built the same, so whilst a small van might have a one piece roof, an x250 like mine has 5 (from memory) panels with beads of sealant keeping out the weather. On our old t25 a previous owner had damaged the side panel this was not fully repaired and left a leak between panels. Colin, I'm slightly intrigued by this. Are you saying that a "small" van, say c. 5 metres, can have a one piece roof, but yours at c. 6.4 metres has a 5 piece roof? I know nothing about vans, just asking. :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 candapack - 2014-01-30 10:46 PM colin - 2014-01-26 7:28 PM Wirehaired - 2014-01-26 7:12 P No particular model Judgemental,just PVs in general, Not all panel vans are built the same, so whilst a small van might have a one piece roof, an x250 like mine has 5 (from memory) panels with beads of sealant keeping out the weather. On our old t25 a previous owner had damaged the side panel this was not fully repaired and left a leak between panels. Colin, I'm slightly intrigued by this. Are you saying that a "small" van, say c. 5 metres, can have a one piece roof, but yours at c. 6.4 metres has a 5 piece roof? I know nothing about vans, just asking. :-D All steel vans (and cars) are built with panels fixed together (welded, bolted or bonded), on smaller vans the roof is likely to be one complete panel and overlap the sides, the x2/50 vans however are not built like this, the main 'flat' part of roof is one (or is it two on xlwb?) panel, the four top corner panels (two sides, front and back) are all separate parts joined to the 'flat' panel on the top surface, the joints of these panels are filled by sealant, If you look at photo on linked page below, where the roof bar feet attach there is a joint there, also where the front roof bar casts a shadow is another joint, also at back of photo you will see a ridge near where the corrogations on main panel end, just in front of this ridge is another joint. http://vangadgets.co.uk/product_information_46a.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter James Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 grahamw - 2014-01-30 2:00 PM I'm in Spain at the moment and cooked a couple of Dorado (sorry sea breem) - delicious but must have caused a dew somewhere. I cook them in a pressure cooker which greatly reduces the water vapor escaping from the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter James Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 The X2/50 is made in 4 different body lengths and 3 different roof heights, so I guess its more economic to make the roof from joining smaller panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Peter James - 2014-02-01 9:04 AM The X2/50 is made in 4 different body lengths and 3 different roof heights, so I guess its more economic to make the roof from joining smaller panels. Whilst it true a manufacturer will use the most economical way of building them I think there's a lot more to it than that. The x2/50 design appears to be quite clever in giving more usable inside space for it's size compared to say the Renault Master, it's my belief that the top corners are used to give a lot more of the structural rigidity then some other vans, and this means they are more complex in design, I believe this meant the roof needed to built in more sections due to this. A quick glance at a Tranny as I strolled past it yesterday, and it looked to have the roof in three sections, front, rear, and middle, this on the face of it would appear to be the most economical way of building a roof as only the middle section would be changed for different lengths of van. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamw Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 I cook them in a pressure cooker which greatly reduces the water vapor escaping from the pan. Thanks Peter I think that supports the theory quite well about how you use your motorhome being a key issue with regard to condensation. Or in this case how you prefer to cook your fish! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 grahamw - 2014-02-01 1:48 PM I cook them in a pressure cooker which greatly reduces the water vapor escaping from the pan. Thanks Peter I think that supports the theory quite well about how you use your motorhome being a key issue with regard to condensation. Or in this case how you prefer to cook your fish! On our old T25, I designed the 'cooking module' so it could be swung outside, and weather permitting this is how we mainly cooked, but even so all cooking of fish was banned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter James Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 I fitted a Pacet VF4840 in the roof, which sucks more than a cubic metre of air every 2 seconds. Enough to shift any smell (lol) : http://www.pacet.co.uk/roofmountedfans.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.