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Truma E 4000 blown air heater not working properly


Alibaba

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Hi, new so please forgive my possible lack of etiquette

 

I have a self build which I've been building over the last 18 months or so, everything is now working properly with the exception of the Truma E 4000 A, I recently fitted a new PCB down at Truma Derby, they tested the system and all seemed to be OK, so I took it home and fitted it, fired it up left it to see if it got hot which it did, so I turned it off.

 

A couple of weeks later we went away for the weekend and used the Truma, which fired up and got the van nice and warm, but after about 30-35 minutes it went clunk and the red failure light came on, I turned it off and back on, it re-lit then the now familiar clunk and red light again after about 1 minute.

 

So far I have checked the voltage which was about 12.4v, the gas pressure is 53Mb at the heater (50Mb model) I have taken the over temp sensor out of the hot air flow, I have removed the hot air pipes just in case there was a flow blockage, I have also taken the outer black flue pipe away from the exhaust in case it was starved of oxygen, none of these has made any difference to the time it stays on, the only clue seems to be that it has to cool down again before it will stay lit for any length of time, which would point to the over temp sensor you would think, but it is cold to touch when it goes off, and as said out of the airflow anyway.

 

To be honest I really don't know what else I can try myself, I'm loath to take it to a dealer as I just don't have the money to pay their rates, for them to sit and make guesses, happy for them to mend it, once I know what it is, but these jobs can take a long time to figure out.

 

I'm not proficient enough to take any electrical measurements as I might have a meter but no clue how to use it further than a simple check, I'm also not wanting ot touch the new PCB for fear of damaging it with probes, as it works for so long I have to assume that the problem is elsewhere.

 

Any ideas, I've not thought of yet which I could try.

 

Thanks you in advance for any help I may receive

 

Kev..

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Truma's E-4000 is rarely fitted to motorhomes and the fact that yours is a 50mbar version makes it even rarer.

 

Assuming the obvious - that LPG is being provided continuously to the heater at 50mbar pressure - you seem to have covered all the trouble-shooting checks that can reasonably be performed other than by a Truma specialist.

 

I'm doubtful that a motorhome dealer would be able to accurately and quickly diagnose what's causing your problem. As the problem can be demonstrated, it would be best for you to go back to the Truma(UK) technicians who tested the system for you.

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In Spain recently a guy had a identical problem to yours,we all tried out various ways,gas fuses etc.then some clever bloke said bleed the water!we did by draining out through drain plug on boiler,hey presto it worked and still worked when we left a month later,worth a try,hope it works for you.
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Hi Derek,

 

The E 4000, is common enough in Motorhomes, Hymer mainly, just not in the UK, unfortunately, I have been in contact with Truma at Derby about it, and they say go to a dealer, which leaves me a bit stuck, and I'm quite annoyed at their attitude, but not much I can do about it.

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Alibaba - 2014-02-24 12:08 PM

 

Hi Derek,

 

The E 4000, is common enough in Motorhomes, Hymer mainly, just not in the UK, unfortunately, I have been in contact with Truma at Derby about it, and they say go to a dealer, which leaves me a bit stuck, and I'm quite annoyed at their attitude, but not much I can do about it.

 

OK, how does "relatively rarely fitted to motorhomes" sound?

 

For motorhomes fitted with Truma heating equipment, it's much more common to have the traditional arrangement of convector heater + separate water-boiler, or a 'combination' air-water heater. An E-2400 heater has occasionally been an option for fast cab/windscreen heating in A-class models, but the E-4000 model has tended to be installed in horse transporters (often using the under-chassis version) where a fairly high air-heating output is required but water-heating isn't needed.

 

I note that there was a November 2013 MotorHomeFacts (MHF) thread relating to problems with an E-4000 heater

 

http://www.motorhomefacts.com/ftopic-151993-days0-orderasc-0.html

 

The inquirer (Kev_n_Liz) apparently owned a "Citroen Relay XLWB, 07, Self Build", so I'm guessing that the MHF thread related to your heater.

 

I vaguely recall a recent warning on this forum that Truma(UK) were no longer prepared to have private owners bring their leisure-vehicles to the Derby HQ for problem investigation. If that's the case (and it seems to tally with what you've said) a Truma 'Trained Service Dealer' seems to be your only realistic option.

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Not sure what to say to that Derek, as you seem to agree, not much I can do.

 

Yesterday, I got the official Truma repair manual for the E series of Truma heaters, and there is a lot of fault diagnosis stuff on there, dozens of electrical checks so I need to find someone who has a pro meter and has a clue how to use it locally, I have a meter, but it's not accurate enough to do these tests as the readings are of very low values, and I'm about as far as checking the LBs, or that 12v is present, and I stop there.

 

Yes the MHF thread is mine, I hoped the new PCB was the end of the problems, but there is an outside chance that even the new PCB is breaking down under continuous load yet.

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How was the heater performing before you had the new PCB installed? Is this the same fault? Did Truma fix it under warranty?

 

If it is the same fault, I think they are obliged to continue dealing with you, as it would seem they failed to fix it.

 

Long shot, but what gas are you using? If butane, that may give a clue. I assume other gas appliances (cooker/hob) worked OK, and it was only the Truma that failed? The gas cools as it changes from liquid to gas, and butane doesn't "gas" well at low temperatures so, after a period of working and with falling temperature, the "gassing" rate may have fallen below the demand rate of the heater, simulating supply failure. It is possible that low demand appliances, such as a hob burner, may have continued to operate even is the heater wouldn't. If you are on propane, however, this won't apply.

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