Tony Norton Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Hi all, Re: Autotrail Mohican 1999 on Ducato/Alko chassis. towards the end of last season I started to hear a squeal from the back brakes, presumably when they had got a bit hot because it was only ever near the end of a longish trip. As I intend to take the 'van off SORN at the end of this month I thought it best to have a look at the rear brakes to see whether or not new shoes are required. Problem is, I can't get the ruddy drum off. I don't like the idea of levering against the backplate as the backplate is considerably less robust than the drum. The drum, however has 3 tapped holes in it (M10 fine?) that appear to be designed to take the bolt-on end of a slide hammer. I tried pushing it off using each of the tapped holes in turn, I could only find in my various boxes, one bolt that fitted, but that didn't work. If it is a slide hammer job is this a special FIAT tool? All the slide hammers I have met up with in the past have had 4 or 5 bolt holes and were designed for pulling halfshafts when attached to the shaft end using the wheel nuts/bolts. Has anybody been this road before and perhaps found a trick to solve this problem? I am assured, by ALKO, that everything outboard of the swinging arm, i.e. backplate, shoes, drum etc., is pure FIAT. Any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers Tony N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Newell Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 I've not come across Ducato brake drums that I couldn't remove although some have been tricker than others. First of all remove the two tapered wheel locating studs (12mm AF) then I usually give the drum a good clout or three with a 2 lb copper mallet on the wheel mounting face, this usually releases the drum from the hub and it can then be drawn off by hand. D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gocro Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Basically said the same thing, progressing to larger hammer or puller on drum edges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
van640 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Hi. Make sure you have wound the hand brake adjuster right back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmacz Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Look through one of the bolt holes in the drum and you will see the self adjuster, try winding this back through the hole. Lever the drum off with 2 big screwdrivers or levers and it should come off without any damage. Backplate is strong and no damage unless extremely rough. You may find a leaky cylinder is causing the squeak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Norton Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Dave Newell - 2014-03-11 7:01 PM First of all remove the two tapered wheel locating studs (12mm AF) I must be going stupid in my old age! It didn't occur to me that the locating studs may go through the drum and into the hub, not just into the drum. I'll give that a try later today. Tony N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Norton Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Hi All, thanks to all those who gave advice, particularly the bit about removing the locating pegs! Got the N/S drum off O.K. and found that the rearmost (trailing) shoe was half the thickness of the leading shoe, the reverse of what one might expect. Reason was, the rearward acting piston was seized in its "out" position. Hence the squeal when it got a bit warm. New shoes and some cleaning up are called for. Just a last couple of questions. Does anybody have access to the torque settings for: - a) The locating pegs and, more importantly b) The wheel bolts. These didn't seem particularly tight when I removed them. Thanks again. Tony N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gocro Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 The pegs are just tightened firmly with a spanner once the wheel is on they can't come out. Without a torque wrench I stand on the nut spanner until the metal creaks (make sure they are clean and not covered in grease / oil), at least I know I can get them off again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Norton Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Just found another problem. The correct brake shoes seem to come in 2 lining thicknesses, 4.5mm and 6.0mm. Does anybody know of any advantages/disadvangtages of using one or the other? Tony N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Norton Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 gocro - 2014-03-13 2:23 PM Without a torque wrench I stand on the nut spanner until the metal creaks Reminds me of a quote in an early Haynes manual on tightening the centre nut of the flywheel of a VW Beetle, which needed some horrendously high torque setting. "If you don't have a torque wrench the correct torque is all your weightt on the end of a 2ft "T" bar until the nut squeaks". Scientific or what? Tony N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Newell Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 15" wheels should be 160NM, 16" should be 180NM. D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Norton Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Thanks for that Dave. Tony N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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