Bleeding Ducato brakes - 1999 Mohican on Ducato 2.8 idTD.

[Tony Norton]

No, that wasn't intended to be read as "expletive Ducato brakes", although the rears (see my earlier post) are not the easiest I've come across. Having freed off, and cleaned up, the outer section of the seized piston on the the nearside without losing any fluid, when I came to do the offside, on removal of the shoes one of the pistons popped right out resulting in a considerable loss of fluid and, of course, ingress of air in to the system.

 

This means I now have to bleed the brake system and would like a bit of advice from someone familiar with the job.

 

I have all the necessary equipment to do the job but would like to know: -

 

1) Which is the best sequence? My understanding always was that one starts with the furthest wheel away from the master cylinder and finishes with one nearest, which I would guess, on a RHD vehicle would result in the sequence NS/R, OS/R, NS/F and OS/F. Does the Ducato chassis vary from this?

 

2) The Ducato handbook indicates that a synthetic DOT3 fluid "Tutela PLUS 3 240 C" should be used, and definitely not a mineral based fluid. Is there a more readily available, compatible, equivalent?

 

3) Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a later DOT4 spec fluid?

 

4) Are any special tricks, like pressurizing the master cylinder, necessary?

 

Thanks in advance for any advice readers may be able to give.

 

Happy motorhoming,

 

Tony N

[gmacz]

Since the system is now open, I would replace the sticking cylinder.

Cheap from local factors.

Nothing special about bleeding, furthest away first, pressured or foot pumping both work.

Not sure about dot4 but I would certainly use it.

 

[Brambles]

You need DOT4 as a minimum.

The specified DOT3 is an advanced DOT3 making it better than strandard DOT3.

So DOT 4 is what you should get. This is not to say some manufacturers DOT3 is not suitable but problem is knowing which ones, hence go for DOT4 for the better temperaure spec.

 

I would also replace the wheel cylinders, once they bind, it is usually because of corrosion and leaves the bore pitted so only a matter of time before they fail again and not worth risking a leaking cylinder.

 

edit - removed reference to ford super DOT4 as I may be wrong re longer lfe. It is a better temperature spec but is actually more to do with antilock brakes being fitted. Lower viscosity and anti-foaming.

If you have antilock brakes you need to go for what is called a super DOT4 as far as I can tell.

 

[Brambles]

Further to above, if you have a vehicle with ESP you normally require a DOT4 LV fluid. Don't think this can apply to many motorhomes but mentioning just in case someone has an ESP braking system fitted to a vehicle.

[thebishbus]

Hi . I presume that you have a non ABS system. It is dual circuit diagonally split with two bleed screws on each front calliper. Use Dot 4 fluid, start with the rear. ie rear right front left, rear left front right. On the front wheels bleed the top screw first then the lower one. Note it is different if you have ABS.

Brian B.

[Brambles]

Finally managed to get more time to look at this properly.

According to the Penrite application data the correct fluid is Super DOT4 for all Ducatos.

Penrite make original fill and aftermarket OEM branded fluids for many European manufacturers.