Maybe one for Nick - 2.0 JTD Bosch CV1 Fuel pump gaskets questions

[Brambles]

Hello!

 

Maybe one for Nick from Euroserv.

 

My fuel pump in my 2.0 JTD 2003 Motorhome has a diesel leak from one of the three piston covers on the Bosch CR/CP1S3 R65 10-16S highpresure fuel pump. It first showed up as just a slight wetness all over the pump but this morning on starting engine it flooded out from end of the cover plate. On restarting engine it stopped so looks like seals have failed and presumably a new seal kit will sort.

 

As I intend shortly fitting a new cambelt and tensioner set I willl fix pump at same time. However I have a few questions. (Shortly as in the van ain't going anywhere until fuel leak is fixed)

 

1. Could it have been bio diesel which caused the leak, even though these pumps are supposed to be ok for Biodiesel or are they pretty unreliable for leaks anyway?

 

2. Do I need a special tool to remove the toothed belt pulley or will ordinary gear/pulley pullers remove it , or indeed a couple of big levers?

 

3. What are the tigtening torques for the head bolts and the pulley retaining nut?

 

4. Any other things I need to watch out for or any advice much appreciated.

 

5. Where is the best place to get a kit...a few sellers on Ebay with CV1 universal kits?

 

I am pointing it at Nick as I know he will have experience of this but of course anyone who can help will be appreciated. Also feel free to go off topic if you wish but interested in in anyone who has also had a leaking pump...cannot believe the price of a new pump for what they are.

 

 

[euroserv]

Hello!

 

I have never personally attempted a repair of a fuel pump since everything went common rail. The high pressure pump is a precision device and should be repaired or re-conditioned by a specialist under laboratory conditions. We usually get exchange units from motor factors such as Andrew Page or Euro Car Parts for what seems reasonable money. Don't be surprised if you get fuel leaks from the unions and fittings afterwards; ALL manufacturers recommend replacing any pipes that are removed during repairs to pumps, rails and injectors. These are very expensive for what they are and we normally don't replace them unless there is a leak.

 

I have never used Bio diesel but can tell you that one of my customers did so about 5 years ago for a number of months. They had two LDV vans with Transit 2.4 engines, a Peugeot Boxer 2.0HDi and three Iveco Daily 2.3 vans. The Daily vans never seemed to have any problems with the fuel and ironically Iveco were the only manufacturer that made no recommendations regarding Bio fuel. Peugeot and LDV/Ford said that their engines were completely compatible with the mixture of Diesel/Bio that they were going to be using and yet all three vans suffered fuel pump and injector failures that when examined showed a wearing of seals and general 'stickiness' that prevented their proper operation. The Boxer also had a leak from the fuel pump.

 

I would not touch the stuff.

 

Regarding the removal of the pulley; I actually don't know but we have made a tool specifically for the 2.8 Fiats (because it is virtually impossible to do without breaking the pulley without a secure hold on the splines) and have only very rarely had to change pumps on older 2.3's. We don't run 2.0 or 2.2 PSA engines.

[Brambles]

Good Morning Nick.

Many thanks for your reply. I think I should rethink this and look at a replacement pump. If I was just using for running about normally I would just replace the seals but considering this will be fixed and next trip is around Europe for 6 weeks I really do not want the pump to spring another leak as then will be landed with a big repair cost. My intention was not to completeley overhail the pump, but looking at some utube vidoes it appears when the covers are removed, the piston assemblies are all pushed out at same time by the springs so a very high chance dirt will get in there.

 

Thanks again for your comments.

 

 

[Brambles]

Update....

 

What a pig of a job and a lot more needing replaced than expected. Waterpump, mots bearings etc..teh usual.

 

Anyway, been a lot harder to get the pump out than expected but I methodically perservered.

Spend ages getting the pump body clean and finally remove dteh eaking cap. So much rust I was worried it may have spread under seals -- I was right. Decided reconditioned pump is best option ( ermmm - only option apart from a new pump) and as I was talking to United Diesel in Shrewsbury re seal kit just ordered reconditioned pump ths morning from him. Seems a sound guy. £318 and 100 something extra if I do not return old pump which of course I will. Not sure if £318 is a good price or not. Its done.

 

Now to get on and remove the water pump and then the easy bit .... changing all the tensioners and guides and rebuild the front end of engine.

[Brambles]

Finally got the engine back together today. Pump works fine and no leaks for unions. Before putting belt on and tightenin the union to the common rail I turned the pump by hand until I got diesel coming out . Engine just turned over a couple of revs and started once I had finished..

Checking the management system the fuel pressure tracks the desired pressure so assume this is good.. At idle pressure was 350 bar approx and rose to 630 bar when revving it up. I assume this is normal. Does this sound about right Nick?

 

Also discovered the root cause of the failure. Well we know it was corrosion but why so much. With the rain over weekend I found a drip of water from the soffit board area falls directly onto the pump and disappears straight under the pump uppermost cover. Not anymore it does not as spend this afternoon sealing the soffit panel properly.

 

Thanks again Nick for your reply and help at the start of this saga.

[euroserv]

The pressure sounds about right.

You are most welcome.

 

N