Robinhood Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Had Enough - 2014-07-20 12:32 PM I think that I must have a different oven from you. Mine's an RMS 8500 and it locks with a spigot on the body of the oven, which pushes into a spring on the door. The spring has broken three times and the door has a tendency to come open when driving. The RMS8500 is the fridge ;-) (and incidentally, the source of my one major complaint - posted on here when I found out - in that it is, by Hobby design (at least on mine) insecurely mounted and not in accordance with Dometic's express warnings. If you didn't see my post at the time and check, it is worthwhile checking whether the door hinges are supported level to the front of the door, if not, you have potential problems coming. I've managed to reasonably neatly apply additional supporting blocks, veneered with edging supplied by my dealer). The oven is a Smev OF311SG, (I suspect the same as yours) and mine is the opposite of yours, in that the catch is very tight (without intervention), but as an oven it is fine!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Robinhood - 2014-07-20 12:46 PM Had Enough - 2014-07-20 12:32 PM I think that I must have a different oven from you. Mine's an RMS 8500 and it locks with a spigot on the body of the oven, which pushes into a spring on the door. The spring has broken three times and the door has a tendency to come open when driving. The RMS8500 is the fridge ;-) (and incidentally, the source of my one major complaint - posted on here when I found out - in that it is, by Hobby design (at least on mine) insecurely mounted and not in accordance with Dometic's express warnings. If you didn't see my post at the time and check, it is worthwhile checking whether the door hinges are supported level to the front of the door, if not, you have potential problems coming. I've managed to reasonably neatly apply additional supporting blocks, veneered with edging supplied by my dealer). The oven is a Smev OF311SG, (I suspect the same as yours) and mine is the opposite of yours, in that the catch is very tight (without intervention), but as an oven it is fine!. Sorry! My mistake. I had RMS 8500 on my mind as I also had a problem with that, which Towtal sorted for me whilst they were doing the other jobs. The selection switch on the left just spun around and would no longer change the settings from gas to 12v etc. This switch has a tube which is about five centimetres long and the end of the tube connects with the inner control. Towtal have done a temporary repair and glued the cracked end and have ordered a new switch from Dometic and this will be sent direct to my home. I agree about the oven, it was fine as an oven, but we were plagued with problems. First of all the spigot came loose and my wife shut the door and bent the mounting. I then had the spigot welded/brazed to the body of the oven to stop it coming loose again. But the worst problem was the spring which, as you know, grips the end of the spigot. Ours broke a few times and the oven would flap open and trying to close it using duct tape was very difficult but we had to find a way of shutting it whilst driving. We've just got tired of the damn thing and it's been removed. We now have a large space and my cabinet-maker friend is going to make us a cupboard with shelves which will give us much needed kitchen storage. Can you give me a link to the fridge problem? My fridge door has dropped slightly and when the door shelves are full I have to slip my foot under the door to lever it up a fraction before it will open. It's no great inconvenience but I'd hate it to get worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Had Enough - 2014-07-20 1:07 PM Sorry! My mistake. I had RMS 8500 on my mind as I also had a problem with that, which Towtal sorted for me whilst they were doing the other jobs. The selection switch on the left just spun around and would no longer change the settings from gas to 12v etc. This switch has a tube which is about five centimetres long and the end of the tube connects with the inner control. Towtal have done a temporary repair and glued the cracked end and have ordered a new switch from Dometic and this will be sent direct to my home. ...yup, had that one as well - quite early on. Getting a switch to match the Hobby-coloured fridge might be a challenge. I've now got a different-coloured one in the spares box as a standby . I bound the split part of the original tightly with electrical insulating tape, and it has performed perfectly for some years (it may be worth putting a few turns of tape around your glued one to add a bit more reinforcement). Had Enough - 2014-07-20 1:07 PM Can you give me a link to the fridge problem? My fridge door has dropped slightly and when the door shelves are full I have to slip my foot under the door to lever it up a fraction before it will open. It's no great inconvenience but I'd hate it to get worse. ...same symptoms that caused me to look closely at mine. I suspect you have the beginnings of what could be a major issue if you don't do something (the fridge is not easy to remove/replace in this 'van). Full details here (but if you have any queries, please pm me) http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Hobby-Fridge-Installation-Please-Check-Yours/31113/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Robinhood - 2014-07-20 1:20 PM Had Enough - 2014-07-20 1:07 PM Sorry! My mistake. I had RMS 8500 on my mind as I also had a problem with that, which Towtal sorted for me whilst they were doing the other jobs. The selection switch on the left just spun around and would no longer change the settings from gas to 12v etc. This switch has a tube which is about five centimetres long and the end of the tube connects with the inner control. Towtal have done a temporary repair and glued the cracked end and have ordered a new switch from Dometic and this will be sent direct to my home. ...yup, had that one as well - quite early on. Getting a switch to match the Hobby-coloured fridge might be a challenge. I've now got a different-coloured one in the spares box as a standby . I bound the split part of the original tightly with electrical insulating tape, and it has performed perfectly for some years (it may be worth putting a few turns of tape around your glued one to add a bit more reinforcement). Had Enough - 2014-07-20 1:07 PM Can you give me a link to the fridge problem? My fridge door has dropped slightly and when the door shelves are full I have to slip my foot under the door to lever it up a fraction before it will open. It's no great inconvenience but I'd hate it to get worse. ...same symptoms that caused me to look closely at mine. I suspect you have the beginnings of what could be a major issue if you don't do something (the fridge is not easy to remove/replace in this 'van). Full details here (but if you have any queries, please pm me) http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Hobby-Fridge-Installation-Please-Check-Yours/31113/ Thank you. I've printed out your post and when my cabinet maker chum does my new cupboard next week we'll look at the fridge. I already have laminate for the cupboard door, which matches the dark brown of the rest of the furniture. I thought I'd have a contrast to the cream of the drawers above and below it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter James Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Had Enough - 2014-07-18 7:10 PM They lift up the cracked section and squirt in a foam Lift it by how much? - high enough to see under the crack to check for damp? Or just lift the side a few mm to get the nozzle in and squirt in some gunge? Or do they remove 'a section' as you say in a later post? Which begs the qauestion which section because the shower tray is in one piece - if they remove the shower tray section why not replace it with new? If its another section they renew how can they see under the crack from there? These questions are more important than photos of the finished job - you might as well post photos of your driveway when the gipsys have laid an inch of tarmac over topsoil and for a short while it looks as good as a professional job... If the van was under warranty and the dealer was paying would you accept a cheap bodge instead of a new shower tray? (although not that cheap at £200) P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter James Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Perhaps this thread should be flagged up as a warning not to buy a van with a painted over shower tray :-S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithR Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 had been looking at repairing my shower tray, but thought it pointless unless I had the underneath secured, but no one was offering that. then someone (on here I think) suggested that as the van flexed when mobile, then the shower tray also needed to flex or it would crack. so I left it at that. still not sure of the technical right or wrong, but £195 sounds pretty good. 8-) *-) (?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Robinhood - 2014-07-20 1:20 PM ...yup, had that one as well - quite early on. Getting a switch to match the Hobby-coloured fridge might be a challenge. I've now got a different-coloured one in the spares box as a standby . I bound the split part of the original tightly with electrical insulating tape, and it has performed perfectly for some years (it may be worth putting a few turns of tape around your glued one to add a bit more reinforcement). I've just checked my switch. My 'van is on my drive at present, which is handy! Does the switch just pull out? I can't budge it even with a pair of pliers. I don't want to pull too hard in case I do some damage. The Towtal chap implied that I'd just have to push in the new one when it comes but first of all I'll need to remove the old one. As for the fridge, it seems reasonably well supported. Both hinges rest on a piece of wood that runs along the entire front of the fridge. The right hand hinge juts out about an inch over the edge of this support. The left hand (opening) hinge also juts out over the support but it has a plastic piece which slots in under the hinge to give it more support. This plastic piece keeps coming out but it's easy to slot it back in. The easiest way for me to add extra support would be to add another piece of wood the same size of the one that's already in place and about an inch thick. I'll try to get a decent photo which may show what I'm trying to convey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 KeithR - 2014-07-20 2:27 PM had been looking at repairing my shower tray, but thought it pointless unless I had the underneath secured, but no one was offering that. then someone (on here I think) suggested that as the van flexed when mobile, then the shower tray also needed to flex or it would crack. so I left it at that. still not sure of the technical right or wrong, but £195 sounds pretty good. 8-) *-) (?) If you check the link that I posted earlier you'll see exactly how they do it. http://www.towtal.co.uk/motorhome-caravan-servicing/shower-tray-repair I think the tale of the shower tray needing to flex is a red herring. Mine cracked because it was unsupported in just one place. The rest of it is quite firm underneath. Time will tell but up to now I'm very pleased with the job and now feel confident that the expanding foam has eliminated the weak spot and that it's unlikely to crack again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter James Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 I use expanding foam for insulation. But take a piece that has set and see how easy it is to squeeze - its about as hard as a bathroom sponge. I can't see it offering much support. If it did then shower tray manufacturers would presumably recommend it. But of the countless number of shower trays I have bought and fitted (in buildings admittedly), none have recommended spray foam as a base. They recommend sand cement mix on 19mm ply. _ OKI I realise that weight is not much of a consideration in buildings like it is in motorhomes. But a spray can of foam is still easier than mixing sand and cement. So why not recommmend it if it works? Why didn't the van manufacturers use it? But we are losing sight of the (very) important thing here - residual damp under the floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 For Robin Hood. I've photographed my fridge base and it appears that someone has already made an attempt to give it more support. Would you agree? I mentioned the sticking door ages ago and I can't remember what the outcome was I'm afraid, but if you look at the end of the supporting piece you'll see that it's rough and it looks as though the repairer has cut a piece of wood to size in order to give the front of the fridge extra support. The right hand hinge doesn't look too clever though and I wonder if it might benefit from a small block of wood under the hinge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Had Enough - 2014-07-20 2:29 PM I've just checked my switch. My 'van is on my drive at present, which is handy! Does the switch just pull out? I can't budge it even with a pair of pliers. I don't want to pull too hard in case I do some damage. The Towtal chap implied that I'd just have to push in the new one when it comes but first of all I'll need to remove the old one. As for the fridge, it seems reasonably well supported. Both hinges rest on a piece of wood that runs along the entire front of the fridge. The right hand hinge juts out about an inch over the edge of this support. The left hand (opening) hinge also juts out over the support but it has a plastic piece which slots in under the hinge to give it more support. This plastic piece keeps coming out but it's easy to slot it back in. The easiest way for me to add extra support would be to add another piece of wood the same size of the one that's already in place and about an inch thick. I'll try to get a decent photo which may show what I'm trying to convey. The fridge knob simply pulls off. Having been bound, mine is not now the tightest of fits in that plane, but perfectly functional as a switch (I've just pulled off, if you'll pardon the expression). Whilst the fridge carcase in my van is supported on a horizontal board at the rear, that doesn't extend to the front of the fridge (which I suspect is supported by screws through the sides into the cabinetwork). The only support in the area of the hinges is the thin veneered plinth running in a line vertically along the front of the kitchen unit, which, given the "radiused" shape of the kitchen unit, is some 3 inches or so behind the front of the fridge carcase (excluding the door). Accordingly, there is no support for the hinges at all. It is such a fundamental error, that it may be a misbuild, and/or they may have corrected it in production (I think your 'van may be a slightly later build than mine, which was early 2010). Nonetheless, if the door is sticking, it may well be worthwhile "bolstering" the hinge right to the front. Edit after your photos to add: ...it looks to me as though someone has had a bit of (an unsuccessful) go at bolstering the hinges already. (It looks like an additional plinth, in a slightly different colour has been added) I think you've got the same design fault as me, and the extra bit of "plinth" supporting the hinges looks more of a bodge than mine. .....and to be honest, the hinge looks in a worse state than mine. I've put in two separate blocks, a very tight fit vertically from the floor to the hinge base, slightly wider than the hinge base, and of a depth from the original plinth to the absolute front of the black plastic of the hinge. Laminated in the same wood, they are not at all noticeable (since they are still largely recessed under the furniture. I'd definitely recommend a bit of extra work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter James Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Has the damp warped the floor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Robinhood - 2014-07-20 3:00 PM Had Enough - 2014-07-20 2:29 PM I've just checked my switch. My 'van is on my drive at present, which is handy! Does the switch just pull out? I can't budge it even with a pair of pliers. I don't want to pull too hard in case I do some damage. The Towtal chap implied that I'd just have to push in the new one when it comes but first of all I'll need to remove the old one. As for the fridge, it seems reasonably well supported. Both hinges rest on a piece of wood that runs along the entire front of the fridge. The right hand hinge juts out about an inch over the edge of this support. The left hand (opening) hinge also juts out over the support but it has a plastic piece which slots in under the hinge to give it more support. This plastic piece keeps coming out but it's easy to slot it back in. The easiest way for me to add extra support would be to add another piece of wood the same size of the one that's already in place and about an inch thick. I'll try to get a decent photo which may show what I'm trying to convey. The fridge knob simply pulls off. Having been bound, mine is not now the tightest of fits in that plane, but perfectly functional as a switch (I've just pulled off, if you'll pardon the expression). Whilst the fridge carcase in my van is supported on a horizontal board at the rear, that doesn't extend to the front of the fridge (which I suspect is supported by screws through the sides into the cabinetwork). The only support in the area of the hinges is the thin veneered plinth running in a line vertically along the front of the kitchen unit, which, given the "radiused" shape of the kitchen unit, is some 3 inches or so behind the front of the fridge carcase (excluding the door). Accordingly, there is no support for the hinges at all. It is such a fundamental error, that it may be a misbuild, and/or they may have corrected it in production (I think your 'van may be a slightly later build than mine, which was early 2010). Nonetheless, if the door is sticking, it may well be worthwhile "bolstering" the hinge right to the front. I'm not sure whether you saw my photos before posting the above. Do you think there's a chance that my installation is the same as yours but my repairer has fitted that wooden support along the front? My 'van is registered March 2010 so was probably built around the same times as yours. When you say 'bolstering the hinge 'right to the front' do you mean the right hand hinge? I could do this easily with a piece of quality hardwood nicely sanded down and varnished. Thanks for your help. As you'll gather I'm not too handy at this DIY stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pelmetman Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Blimey all these problems...... I thought Hobby was at the quality end of the Moho market? 8-)................ Although you can tell a lot about a bloke from the wrinkles in his gaffa tape ;-).............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulletguy Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 I had two hairline cracks in my tray. I used some of this; http://oi59.tinypic.com/2hzrd5y.jpg which cost around a fiver and seems to have done the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Peter James - 2014-07-20 3:05 PM Has the damp warped the floor? .....I suspect any association with damp has warped the floor less than it appears to have warped your mind. :-S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Had Enough - 2014-07-20 3:09 PM I'm not sure whether you saw my photos before posting the above. Do you think there's a chance that my installation is the same as yours but my repairer has fitted that wooden support along the front? ....ignoring the habitual semi-comprehensible incoming (and not reverting to pm as the info may prove useful to other owners). I updated my post above after you posted the pictures (which satisfy my curiosity as to whether mine is unique or not).. You have exactly the same issue as me (though somewhat worse, as I caught mine early), and yes, someone appears to have had a go at a bodge. I've described what I've done in my edited post - the new RH support is full depth, whilst the LH one is (by necessity given the geography of the kitchen) slightly less deep. Whilst the LH one is less critical, it plays a role in supporting the closed door, so still needs bolstering. I'd remove the extra plinth someone has added, and add two block supports like mine. Both extra supports need to be a really tight fit vertically, and the RH one can be butted against the "wall" at the end of the kitchen. I note you use the factory supplied carpets, which don't fit well after the bodge that's been done to your 'van, and won't fit at all (without cutting) if you add supports like mine. My factory carpets are in the loft; what you see on the following picture (which will give you some idea of what I've done) are offcuts from house carpet. Hope this helps - you really do need to add some support!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Robinhood - 2014-07-20 4:36 PM Had Enough - 2014-07-20 3:09 PM I'm not sure whether you saw my photos before posting the above. Do you think there's a chance that my installation is the same as yours but my repairer has fitted that wooden support along the front? ....ignoring the habitual semi-comprehensible incoming (and not reverting to pm as the info may prove useful to other owners). I updated my post above after you posted the pictures (which satisfy my curiosity as to whether mine is unique or not).. You have exactly the same issue as me (though somewhat worse, as I caught mine early), and yes, someone appears to have had a go at a bodge. I've described what I've done in my edited post - the new RH support is full depth, whilst the LH one is (by necessity given the geography of the kitchen) slightly less deep. Whilst the LH one is less critical, it plays a role in supporting the closed door, so still needs bolstering. I'd remove the extra plinth someone has added, and add two block supports like mine. Both extra supports need to be a really tight fit vertically, and the RH one can be butted against the "wall" at the end of the kitchen. I note you use the factory supplied carpets, which don't fit well after the bodge that's been done to your 'van, and won't fit at all (without cutting) if you add supports like mine. My factory carpets are in the loft; what you see on the following picture (which will give you some idea of what I've done) are offcuts from house carpet. Hope this helps - you really do need to add some support!. Thanks. That's been a great help and I shall get my woodworking expert on it as soon as possible. I presume that the blocks are held in place by nothing more than the weight of the fridge? We use the Hobby carpets but they're still like new. IKEA sell something called druggets I think, which are just washable mats, almost like thick towels. They're in lovely stripey designs and we have these over the Hobby carpet. They wash in a washing machine and as well as brightening up the floor are a very simple way of keeping the original carpets immaculate. When I've put the blocks in I'll do a bit of surgery on the Hobby carpet and then have the edge rebound. There's a company near me that will make replacement carpets with bound edges. If I took the Hobby carpets to them they'd duplicate them for peanuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Bulletguy - 2014-07-20 3:59 PM I had two hairline cracks in my tray. I used some of this; http://oi59.tinypic.com/2hzrd5y.jpg which cost around a fiver and seems to have done the trick. I found this in my researches and it's mentioned on other forums. My quandary of course is that simply repairing the cracks wouldn't solve the underlying problem, which is the lack of support under that section of the shower tray, which could mean that it will crack again when I'm actually showering. I was lucky this time in that the cracks appeared when we weren't using the shower so no water escaped into the void. And of course there's the aesthetics, which might be a problem when I come to sell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Had Enough - 2014-07-20 7:03 PM Thanks. That's been a great help and I shall get my woodworking expert on it as soon as possible. I presume that the blocks are held in place by nothing more than the weight of the fridge? ...yes, an "interference" fit, and it needs to be tight to perform the required function. Take the weight of the door at the hinge end, and ensure the drooping part of the hinge is going to be held horizontal by the new block. You can trap the block tightly between the floor, and the rear part of the hinge that is under the fridge carcase. The forward part of the hinge needs to be supported, by the block, but the upper edge is not trapped (since this supports the door). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pelmetman Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Robinhood - 2014-07-20 4:36 PM I'd remove the extra plinth someone has added, and add two block supports like mine. Both extra supports need to be a really tight fit vertically, and the RH one can be butted against the "wall" at the end of the kitchen. I note you use the factory supplied carpets, which don't fit well after the bodge that's been done to your 'van, and won't fit at all (without cutting) if you add supports like mine. My factory carpets are in the loft; what you see on the following picture (which will give you some idea of what I've done) are offcuts from house carpet. Hope this helps - you really do need to add some support!. As I said earlier...........Blimey 8-)........................ How many thousands did you pay for your campers?..........and now your having to do some pretty basic carpentry.......................and Frank has the gall to slag of my camper *-)....................talk about style over substance (lol).............. PS my 24 year old oven works a treat to :D........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Robinhood - 2014-07-20 7:16 PM Had Enough - 2014-07-20 7:03 PM Thanks. That's been a great help and I shall get my woodworking expert on it as soon as possible. I presume that the blocks are held in place by nothing more than the weight of the fridge? ...yes, an "interference" fit, and it needs to be tight to perform the required function. Take the weight of the door at the hinge end, and ensure the drooping part of the hinge is going to be held horizontal by the new block. You can trap the block tightly between the floor, and the rear part of the hinge that is under the fridge carcase. The forward part of the hinge needs to be supported, by the block, but the upper edge is not trapped (since this supports the door). Thanks again. In the dross from the usual suspects who can't resist plugging their particular hobby horses (no pun intended) your posts a re a breath of fresh air. Why do they feel the need for constant justification of whatever fixation that they happen to have? One for the psychiatrists perhaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pelmetman Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Had Enough - 2014-07-20 7:36 PM Thanks again. In the dross from the usual suspects who can't resist plugging their particular hobby horses (no pun intended) your posts a re a breath of fresh air. Why do they feel the need for constant justification of whatever fixation that they happen to have? One for the psychiatrists perhaps? Oh dear back to the third person again *-).......................curious how my posts on your threads are dross yet your posts on mine are nothing short of a vented spleen (lol)....................but then again you've never Had Enough of a problem with hypocrisy ;-)................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Double post. A bloke up the road went past in his twenty-five year old banger and the noise made me lose concentration! :-> :-> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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