Pipkim Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 We are considering having a Thule "Lift" bike rack fitted to our next motorhome. There are two options available :- a manual one using the same type of crank handle that the awning uses & a 12v motorized one which is "all singing; all dancing" it appears. Does any one have any experience of using this type of bike rack? Thanks PilgrimPhil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 I don't know this model myself but I presume you've seen this clip on You Tube? I have the Thule EuroPower 916, which fits on a towball and it's a brilliant design. Check the video on the link. You may find it almost as cheap to have a towing bracket fitted and use this type. It has a 60 kg limit as opposed to 50 kg and you won't have to drill through the back of your motorhome, which can be a big job depending on what's behind it. http://goo.gl/WdOVIo I must say that the electric lift model seems equally brilliant but for me 50 kg maximum weight isn't quite enough as my two heavy electric bikes would take it near its limit, which I've never happy with on a back-mounted carrier. When I had a back-mounted one, every time I went over a bump I felt that there was a chance of the whole thing being ripped off the back! I'm much happier with my EuroPower 916. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipkim Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thanks for that. I had seen the "lift" video before but not the "tow bar" attachment one. Food for thought indeed! Thanks again PilgrimPhil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archiesgrandad Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 This thing about going over a bump and having the bike rack tear itself from the back panel, is it real, or is this just another of those silly scare stories? It's never happened to us, not even showed any kind of stress in the mountings, either with the ones fitted by the dealer nor the one I fitted myself. I recently sold our towball mounted one because we no longer need it, we prefer the normal type because it holds the bikes steadier, and because by the time you add the weight of the bikes to the weight of the rack itself, we were exceeding the acceptable download on the towbar. It goes without saying that the rack needs to be properly fitted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and the back panel needs to be suitably reinforced etc., but when I accidentally backed into a tree a few years back, I bent the roof ladder, severely damaged the bike wheel, but the repair man could find nothing wrong with the rack or the back panel. AGD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 There are several advantages to the tow bar mounted 916: A greater payload should you ever get heavier bikes, transferable to other vehicles (we use ours on my wife's Honda CR-V if we want a day out with the bikes), permanently lower down for easy access and, most importantly, no complicated fitting through the rear of the motorhome. I've just been quoted £350 for a tow bar for a Hymer B Class. Add that to a Thule 916 and it can't be much different from the Lift model plus fitting charge. Another advantage is the ease of fitting a cover. On a back-mounted one you need a special one with slots to slip over the arms that clamp the bikes. With the 916 the bikes are away from the rear and a cover just drops over the whole assembly. We have a superb waterproof cover that was designed for a garden table and it's brilliant for the bikes. We drop it over and wrap two straps around each end to keep it in place and it works really well. If you go for the 916 don't bother with the loading ramp. It's an optional extra but as the bikes are very low down it's a doddle to lift them on. Edited to say. I've just read the post above and the tow bar mounted Thule is far steadier than my previous back-mounted one. The 916 is no normal bike rack being a heavy duty model for heavier bikes and is a s solid as a rock. On my previous factory-fitted back-mounted rack on my Hobby the base-section on which the bikes stood eventually bent down slightly causing the bikes to lean back. This was despite the fact that we were just under the 50 kg limit and I'm convinced that part of this was the bounce when we went over a severe bump that we hadn't noticed. And I believe that there have been examples of bike racks becoming detached and causing very expensive damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithR Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 i have a lift bike rack (had it for 10 years) and find it quick and easy to raise or lower. the rack comes from chest height down to shin height. ive never come across any problem with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest machra Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 I have had 3x different kinds in my time, a static rack on back of coach built, a tow bar mounted rack on a panel van, and currently have a lift rack on back of coachbuilt. Travelled all over Europe on more than one occasion with the lift rack. I have to say it holds the bikes safe and secure, but then they all did. It does take more time to get the bikes on and off as you have to wind the rack down, mine is the manual wind. And for this reason only i would look at a static rack, unless of course you have to have a lift rack because of some reason or other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipkim Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 We currently have a 2 bike rack [Eurocarry - factory fitted by Knaus] and the only issue that we have had with it was when I went over a hump back bridge too fast and the hinge bolt sheared on one side & the other one was bent. Thankfully the bike lock stopped any further movement. We were a mile from home [after a 3 week, 1,500 mile trip to Denmark], and I was unaware of the problem until we pulled into our driveway! No damage to the rear wall at all. The rack is set quite high up and sometimes it is a struggle to get both bikes on and secured - hence the thought of having the "lift" type rack fitted next time. Thanks to all for your comments so far. PilgrimPhil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyishuk Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 FWIWorth we have a Thule tow-bar rack for our two electric bikes which weigh about 26kg each without battery fitted. The carrier came with a ramp / channel which makes getting the bikes onto the carrier very easy. The main fiddle is as the bikes pass each other and the peddles meet. Once we used the ramp a couple of times, we know where the peddles tend to meet so turn them out the way. A good solid rack, on some vans the handle bar may be a bit close for comfort, but on our m/home not a problem. Rgds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipkim Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 I have just had the costings back on this type of bike rack:- Manual - £468.40 Electric - £608.40 Both costs including VAT but exclude fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 tonyishuk - 2014-10-28 5:01 PM FWIWorth we have a Thule tow-bar rack for our two electric bikes which weigh about 26kg each without battery fitted. The carrier came with a ramp / channel which makes getting the bikes onto the carrier very easy. The main fiddle is as the bikes pass each other and the peddles meet. Once we used the ramp a couple of times, we know where the peddles tend to meet so turn them out the way. A good solid rack, on some vans the handle bar may be a bit close for comfort, but on our m/home not a problem. As you say, you've no problem but this may help others. Rgds It is really very simple to swivel handlebars so that they're parallel with the crossbar and won't hit the back of the 'van. Two minutes with an allen key will do the trick. We do it for the one that's at the back and it makes life much simpler. You don't have a problem but this may help others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Had Enough Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Pipkim - 2014-11-02 12:04 PM I have just had the costings back on this type of bike rack:- Manual - £468.40 Electric - £608.40 Both costs including VAT but exclude fitting. Yes, I'd already looked up the cost when I'd posted higher up this thread. My biggest worry would be the complexity of fitting it. On some layouts it may be quite simple but on others that have cabinets or other fittings it may be complex and expensive. I would cost a towbar and the Thule 916 for comparison and at the same time of course check that your back axle loading is sufficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipkim Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Thanks "Had Enough" Good point about the fixing points Our current van has twin singles at the rear and the fixings are on show - but not obstrusive. The replacement that we are looking at has an end washroom - across the whole width of the van, so there could be some cabinets in the way. I will do as you suggest & look at comparative costings for the tow bar + associated bike rack. Thanks again for your sage advice! PilgrimPhil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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