Still thinking of Italy

[Tea Cup]

I didn't make it there last year, but Alex Politzzi's Secret Italy the other night reignited my interest, particularly the Amalfi coast. She commented that the coast road was very difficult. Is it that bad?

 

[alan]

Hi

We travelled this coast road in 2008 and have no reason to believe that the situation has altered. The road is difficult, I believe, but we were stopped by a very friendly policewoman who did not stop us proceeding but advised us that we could be fined by local councils for taking a motorhome through their village - this appeared to be all the villages so it could be a multiple of fines and once you have started there is no way of turning back. Unless something was lost in translation, I'm not sure, but she spoke in fair English. We about turned, diverted off the actual coast road and re-joined it further south. The whole of the southern Italiy trip was unbelievable - magnificent! A different world from northern Italy.

Alan

[Brian Kirby]

The programme is a bit clunkily stage-managed for my liking, but the scenery wins out. :-)

 

Did the "Amalfi drive" back in the early 70's in a car. Don't know if the road has been much re-engineered since, but would imagine not as it is very tight and the villages along it are crowded against the rocks. I would say it would be very difficult, and in places actually or virtually impassable for a "normal" sized motorhome. Then there is the question of legality, as illustrated by the previous post.

 

You might get away with it in a PVC, almost certainly in a VW T4 conversion, but it would be wise to carefully check the restrictions before setting out.

 

However, I think there are boat trips along that stretch, which may turn out more enjoyable than driving.

[Guest Peter James]

Brian Kirby - 2014-11-09 10:57 AM

 

The programme is a bit clunkily stage-managed for my liking, but the scenery wins out. :-)

 

Thats how I see it too. I recall Fred Dibnah saying its difficult to talk to a camera, but Alex seems to have no problem doing it and making the smile look genuine.

Being a hotelier though, I suppose its inevitable that advertorials creep in. I didn't like her comment in Venice ' In 5 hours time this whole street will be a river of humanity – very unpleasant. There’s a cruise ship that’s about to disgorge 5,000 people into the streets of Venice, all with a packed lunch and a bottle of water and it looks completely wrong…. Its just ridiculous'

Presumably she would like to ban those who couldn't afford the 200 Euros she paid for coffee in St Marks square, of 15000 euros per night for the hotel suite she was plugging.

So I doubt if she would approve of me parking my van in the commercial park, and visiting Venice without spending anything.*-)

I am very sorry to hear her father was killed by a lorry driver falling asleep at the wheel. But I wondered if it had anything to do with her Grandfather banning lorries from parking to take a rest break at his Trust House Forte (Little Chef etc) service areas. :'(

[Guest Peter James]

Tea Cup - 2014-11-09 9:42 AM

 

I didn't make it there last year, but Alex Politzzi's Secret Italy the other night reignited my interest, particularly the Amalfi coast.

 

Same here. I have had at least 100 trips to Italy, but all in large lorries so places like the Amalfi Coast are what I have never seen, and would like to do now I am retired. Although the photos look like the coast south from Genoa, which I have seen many times, mostly from the motorway.

[Guest Had Enough]

Motorhomes and caravans are banned from the coastal route during the summer months. I could look it up in the CC Europe book but I'm dashing out for the afternoon but from memory it's from about May to October.

 

A good way to see it is what we did. We were staying at Pompeii on a site near the entrance. The railway station was adjacent so we took the train to Sorrento. From Sorrento you can catch a bus, which goes along the coast and you can hop off at places such as Positano before continuing to Amalfi.

[George Collings]

We had a crack at the Amalfi drive some years back in our T4 Clubman. Two vehicles had got tangled and it was gridlock. We found an escape route over the mountains. Spoke to some police who were trying to sort it and got the impression we should not have been there. Even in a car not for the nervous. On reflection would do some research and take a boat trip if available. Boat trips are usually the highlight of any trip.

 

We spent five days in Venice around the same time staying on the opposite side of the lagoon and came in by boat every day. Magical- you canstep back in the road and look at things without worrying about cars.

[Billggski]

Careful you don't step back into a canal.

[Tea Cup]

George Collings - 2014-11-09 1:16 PMWe had a crack at the Amalfi drive some years back in our T4 Clubman. Two vehicles had got tangled and it was gridlock. We found an escape route over the mountains. Spoke to some police who were trying to sort it and got the impression we should not have been there. Even in a car not for the nervous. On reflection would do some research and take a boat trip if available. Boat trips are usually the highlight of any trip.We spent five days in Venice around the same time staying on the opposite side of the lagoon and came in by boat every day. Magical- you canstep back in the road and look at things without worrying about cars.

Ours is a similar size to the VW, but is a LWB high top. I could take the motorway route to get down south quickly, dip into the Amalfi, and if the road is too difficult, or there are problems such as yours, or being booted off the coast road by the guys in blue, then I could go north, back up the coast.

 

An Italian friend was telling me that the west coast is much warmer than the east off season, I was thinking of going early spring but then there is getting through the snowy alps. I used to go to Venice annually at one stage, a lifetime ago, I promised to take my wife who has never been there. But it does get crowded on the main concourses. We'll see it we can fit it in.

 

 

[Guest Peter James]

Had Enough - 2014-11-09 12:31 PM

 

Motorhomes and caravans are banned from the coastal route during the summer months. .

 

Just as well I don't have a motorhome then (lol) Its a van loaded with furniture ;-)

[Guest Peter James]

 

George Collings - 2014-11-09 1:16 PM there is getting through the snowy alps.

 

I never had a problem getting through the Alps in winter (Mont Blanc Tunnel) It was Milan area that scared me because its notorious for fog, and the Italians just will not slow down.

[Tea Cup]

Milan area scared me too, went around it a few years ago. That was bad enough. They drove like lemmings. Perhaps they couldn't see above the steering wheel! (Lemmings)

 

[lennyhb]

I've driven into the centre if Milan don't recall any problems, on the other hand found Florence very scary. Luck of the draw all depends what the traffic is like on the day you are there.

[Geeco]

After some ten driving holidays in the last  20 years in Italy I have found the solution to survival is to perfect the art of "blending" while at the same time understanding when to back off & let the other car go. You should also consider the various islands off the west coast or off Sicily they are truely fantastic.Ponza by ferry from Terracina with a small ferry ride around the adjoining island is recommended as a day trip from Terracina.

[George Collings]

Peter James, you are lifting the quotes and getting them mixed. I have never been to the Alps in winter. My idea of winter sport involves a log fire and rug.

 

 

[Brian Kirby]

Tea Cup - 2014-11-09 6:17 PM....................... I used to go to Venice annually at one stage, a lifetime ago, I promised to take my wife who has never been there. But it does get crowded on the main concourses. We'll see it we can fit it in.

This route should get you to Venice toll free, at least it did last time we used it in 2012. :-) The two passes, Fern and Reschan, have easy gradients, well engineered, normal, two lane blacktop, and are maintained snow-free (but are liable to closure during snow). Being mountain roads, they twist a fair bit, but nothing abnormal. There is a good stopping place at Curon Venosta, where there is a large reservoir that has drowned a village - except for the church tower which emerges unexpectedly from the water. The scenery is good, and there are no major towns until you get to Merano, which the dual carriageway SS38 "Mebo" basically by-passes en route to Bolzano. The road is generelly quite busy, and you will encounter trucks, but I have not encountered heavy traffic or major hold-ups on the numerous occasions we have used it. The SS38 Mebo is a fast, basically valley, road. By and large, it is a pleasant trip, but Fussen to Venice is a bit long in a single hit, so we tend to split it somewhere about mid-way.

 

If you go down to Fussen in Bavaria and then south into Austria, and take the Fern pass to Reutte and Imst, and then the B171 to Landeck (avoiding the A12 for which a maut/vignette is required), you can take the Reschenpass into Italy at Resia, and then south via Merano and Bolzano. The first toll motorway you will hit will be at Bolzano. You can then do Trento, Verona, Padua, Venice by autostrada, or go via "state" roads to Trento, Primolano, Bassano del Grappa, and Castelfranco Veneto.

 

Depending on your preferences, there is a good, family run, campsite at Oriago, on the Brenta Canal: Camping Serenissima. Regular bus to Venice (Piazzale Roma) or Padova outside the site, tickets from the reception.

 

Driving in Italy is not, IMO, so bad as some seem to have found it, so don't be put off. We have made several trips into Italy with our vans: northern Italy is fairly restrained (I say that as someone who has driven right down the Corso Regina Margherita in Turin, and into the municipal campsites in Milan and Bologna - not central but within the city limits). We have been as far south as Lecce in Apulia and the driving does become more "Italian" as one goes south. However, if you get off the autostradae as often as possible (the autostradae being by far the quickest way to travel), by the time you get to the south you will understand how it works! Basically, the Italians are impetuous, and they drive in character, but not, in my experience, aggressively. They just need bailing out at times - when their impetuosity get the better of their judgement! But, they are generally tolerant of misjudgements and mistakes by others so, if one similarly helps out the loonies, everyone gets along fine. They do tend to have a cavalier attitude to speed limits, but they also seem to know where the fuzz will be hiding (presumably local knowledge) so it is unwise, as a stranger, IMO, to copy them! Great country!

[Guest JudgeMental]

Amen,..our favorite country. toll charges, like Spain are not exorbitant (unlike BAD france *-)) campers same price as cars unless over 3500Kg I guess. fuel slightly more then here

[Guest Peter James]

George Collings - 2014-11-10 11:07 AM

 

Peter James, you are lifting the quotes and getting them mixed. I have never been to the Alps in winter. My idea of winter sport involves a log fire and rug.

 

 

Ah... that must be my computer playing up again ;-)

[snowie]

George Collings - 2014-11-09 1:16 PM

 

We had a crack at the Amalfi drive some years back in our T4 Clubman. Two vehicles had got tangled and it was gridlock. We found an escape route over the mountains. Spoke to some police who were trying to sort it and got the impression we should not have been there.

 

Sounds like one to avoid then George? Driving it for the hell of it sounds less than sensible. Some pre-planning with Pompei as a place to stay for a few days, car hire for a day or two and a boat trip or two will do nicely. A timely thread, had planned to go in Aug/sept this year but couldn't get ourselves organized. Not been to Italy other than a weekend in Venice since the kids were holidaying with us, so plenty to look forward to,

regards

alan b

[Guest Peter James]

JudgeMental - 2014-11-10 1:20 PM

 

Amen,..our favorite country. toll charges, like Spain are not exorbitant (unlike BAD france *-))

 

To be fair, thats because France is a Transit country with much foreign traffic just passing through between other countries . Wheras most of the foreign traffic in Britain, Italy, and even Spain is not just passing through without spending anything.

[Guest Peter James]

George Collings - 2014-11-09 1:16 PM

 

Spoke to some police who were trying to sort it and got the impression we should not have been there. .

 

As one Italian said to me 'In Italy everything is prohibited, but everything is possible' :-D

[Guest Peter James]

Brian Kirby - 2014-11-10 12:46 PM

 

Tea Cup - 2014-11-09 6:17 PM....................... I used to go to Venice annually at one stage, a lifetime ago, I promised to take my wife who has never been there. But it does get crowded on the main concourses. We'll see it we can fit it in.

This route should get you to Venice toll free, at least it did last time we used it in 2012. :-) The two passes, Fern and Reschan, have easy gradients, well engineered, normal, two lane blacktop, and are maintained snow-free (but are liable to closure during snow). Being mountain roads, they twist a fair bit, but nothing abnormal. There is a good stopping place at Curon Venosta, where there is a large reservoir that has drowned a village - except for the church tower which emerges unexpectedly from the water. The scenery is good, and there are no major towns until you get to Merano, which the dual carriageway SS38 "Mebo" basically by-passes en route to Bolzano. The road is generelly quite busy, and you will encounter trucks, but I have not encountered heavy traffic or major hold-ups on the numerous occasions we have used it. The SS38 Mebo is a fast, basically valley, road. By and large, it is a pleasant trip, but Fussen to Venice is a bit long in a single hit, so we tend to split it somewhere about mid-way.

 

If you go down to Fussen in Bavaria and then south into Austria, and take the Fern pass to Reutte and Imst, and then the B171 to Landeck (avoiding the A12 for which a maut/vignette is required), you can take the Reschenpass into Italy at Resia, and then south via Merano and Bolzano. The first toll motorway you will hit will be at Bolzano. You can then do Trento, Verona, Padua, Venice by autostrada, or go via "state" roads to Trento, Primolano, Bassano del Grappa, and Castelfranco Veneto.

 

Depending on your preferences, there is a good, family run, campsite at Oriago, on the Brenta Canal: Camping Serenissima. Regular bus to Venice (Piazzale Roma) or Padova outside the site, tickets from the reception.

 

Driving in Italy is not, IMO, so bad as some seem to have found it, so don't be put off. We have made several trips into Italy with our vans: northern Italy is fairly restrained (I say that as someone who has driven right down the Corso Regina Margherita in Turin, and into the municipal campsites in Milan and Bologna - not central but within the city limits). We have been as far south as Lecce in Apulia and the driving does become more "Italian" as one goes south. However, if you get off the autostradae as often as possible (the autostradae being by far the quickest way to travel), by the time you get to the south you will understand how it works! Basically, the Italians are impetuous, and they drive in character, but not, in my experience, aggressively. They just need bailing out at times - when their impetuosity get the better of their judgement! But, they are generally tolerant of misjudgements and mistakes by others so, if one similarly helps out the loonies, everyone gets along fine. They do tend to have a cavalier attitude to speed limits, but they also seem to know where the fuzz will be hiding (presumably local knowledge) so it is unwise, as a stranger, IMO, to copy them! Great country!

 

Very Helpful Post, Thanks. But what about going in Winter instead of Spain? I never saw frost in Florence or south of there - although many cafe's had photographs of snow in Florence because it was so unusual. Central Italy - Milan to Bologna could get very cold though - its the only place I have ever seen lorries stranded because the diesel had waxed up. One driver had lit a fire under the diesel tank, which had spread and completely gutted the lorry and load.

[Tea Cup]

If you go down to Fussen in Bavaria and then south into Austria, and take the Fern pass to Reutte and Imst, and then the B171 to Landeck (avoiding the A12 for which a maut/vignette is required), you can take the Reschenpass into Italy at Resia, and then south via Merano and Bolzano.

Thanks for this, Brian. We did more or less this route, except Italy was also toll free, when we went to the lakes with a group of fellow then Bongo owners a few years back (May 2008). We stopped at the aires in Glorenza, which was so good we lingered a few days. Next to fast flowing mountain streams, beautiful moutain vista, glorious weather, pretty town. It's a special memory for all of us.The  Fussen aires was quite good too, a bit of a car park but we were next to the field of sonic cows.

 

[Guest Peter James]

Peter James - 2014-11-10 3:04 PM

what about going in Winter instead of Spain?

 

Just done a\ bit of online research and apparently Sorrento is 6 hours further than Benidorm, and in January it averages 4 deg C colder, with 5 times the rainfall.

The final programme is 9pm Friday on Channel 5. But since the cheapest accommodation she has found so far is 8000 Euros per week I don't suppose hotelier Alex is going to be showing wildcamping spots *-)

So it looks like its going to be Spain again. :-D

[Guest Peter James]

Brian Kirby - 2014-11-10 12:46 PM

 

 

 

If you go down to Fussen in Bavaria and then south into Austria, and take the Fern pass to Reutte and Imst, and then the B171 to Landeck (avoiding the A12 for which a maut/vignette is required), you can take the Reschenpass into Italy at Resia, and then south via Merano and Bolzano. The first toll motorway you will hit will be at Bolzano. You can then do Trento, Verona, Padua, Venice by autostrada, or go via "state" roads to Trento, Primolano, Bassano del Grappa, and Castelfranco Veneto.

 

Google Maps agrees with that if you tick the box to avoid tolls B-)