LAK Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Thinking of changing to PVC. Are the back-doors draughty? Use current motorhome all year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike88 Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 LAK - 2014-11-09 4:53 PM Thinking of changing to PVC. Are the back-doors draughty? Use current motorhome all year. No but the insulation is not as good as a coachbuilt. but you don't have to worry about damp issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggyd Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Not if you push a draught excluder in the join, I covered a piece of pipe insulation to match the interior, we were away at Brighton about three weeks ago when we got the end of the hurricane there were no draughts and we were as warm as toast with the electric heating on :-) our heads are at the door as well with the fixed bed. Some P.V.C producers like Auto-Sleeper provide these excluders which have a fixing press-stud ours has Velcro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe90 Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Having had two PVC conversions in the past, one with back doors, and one without, the one without was infinitely better in terms of warmth and lack of rattles, plus a handy boot, and being made of GRP one less thing to rust up, and completely free from draughts. ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 AFAIK it's all down to adjustment, couple of weeks back we on top of Mow Cop and there was a howling gale blowing onto rear quarter of van, it was so bad the noise from the skylight and rocking of the van made sleep difficult (for gf, me I'll sleep throu anything) but we had no droughts throu the rear doors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Rear door insulation is usually poor - out of sight out of mind maybe - but you might be able to remove the inner panels and fit some insulation inside, although you will probably struggle around the windows - which unless they are double glazed will also allow cold in and warmth out! No matter how much you adjust the rear doors being a van will always mean they are not as effectively sealed as one might wish and you might be surprised at how much light you can see around the doors inside with no lights on when someone shines a torch outside at night! Similarly I don't believe the sides and roof are anything like as well insulated as a coachbuilt but as long as you have plenty of gas it should not be too hard keeping the compact interior warm enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter James Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 The problem with removing panels and stuffing insulation inside is that as long as air can get to the outer metal skin, water vapour in the air will condense on it, and then get trapped in the insulation. This becomes apparent a coupe of years later when wet rot or rust starts coming through the panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike88 Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Tracker - 2014-11-09 7:59 PM Rear door insulation is usually poor - out of sight out of mind maybe - but you might be able to remove the inner panels and fit some insulation inside, although you will probably struggle around the windows - which unless they are double glazed will also allow cold in and warmth out! No matter how much you adjust the rear doors being a van will always mean they are not as effectively sealed as one might wish and you might be surprised at how much light you can see around the doors inside with no lights on when someone shines a torch outside at night! Similarly I don't believe the sides and roof are anything like as well insulated as a coachbuilt but as long as you have plenty of gas it should not be too hard keeping the compact interior warm enough? The rear doors should be insulated. I had to remove the paneling to deal with a lock issue and it was full of "thinsulate". I have not experienced any draughts through mine but it must be a question of adjustment as some have had problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Thinsulate by name thinsulate by nature - my impression of it in other applications is that thinsulate is not much good as insulation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAK Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Thanks I will keep these points in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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