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Sliding doors - an answer?


Tracker

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Guest Peter James
You just want a handle fitting on the inside of the door so you can pull the rear of the sliding door in when you close it. Closes with less force and noise then.
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Guest JudgeMental
colin - 2015-01-28 9:18 AM

 

Discussed in length last(? ) year. IMO the idea is ok but the implementation by IH is crap.

The German(? ) version with the hinged door built into SLD looks infinatly better in photo's, but never seen one in the flesh.

 

I have at dusseldorf show 2010 I think....there were 2 with it maybe. Dont see the point personally as made the van seem claustrophobic I thought. I dont think door still slid in ones I saw....

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Joe90 - 2015-01-28 7:11 PM

 

Or there are a lot of weaklings around, never had to slam ours more than once. :D

 

and only as loud as cab doors slamming in any event, or your dogs barking, or your tvs blaring...............get a life some of you folk. ;-)[/quote

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once onsite, Cab doors don't get opened, Dogs don't bark, unless someone bangs on the van, or tries to break in !! and very seldom watch TV. Autoclosers please.

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Hi all, 
 Regarding the Stopsy.
 I created my own very simply and very cheaply and it works great.
I used two thin metal strips 10mm x 20mm with double sided adhesive tape, the stuff that has a thin foam layer sandwiched between the the double sided tape. You can buy the tape at B&O, Auto Parts Stores etc. 
Apply the tape to one side of the metal strips
Clean a patch on where you want the door to stop - top runner track.
Remove the backing strip from the tape and mount the strips about with a 10mm gap between the two. Short side of the strips facing out.
Presto a cheap door stop that works fine.
Just slide the door along till it rides over the first strip and drops into the gap between the two.
The entire thickness of metal strip+foam+tape is about 1mm and doesn't cause any problems with the door sliding. 
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Nice idea Paul and like many good ideas so simple and cost effective, well done and thanks for the tip.

 

I guess it would also hold the door open when facing mildly downhill by preventing the initial movement?

 

Just need a block and tackle system now for pulling the door closed when facing uphill!

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Paul M Who - 2015-01-30 1:04 AM

 

Hi all, 

 Regarding the Stopsy.
 I created my own very simply and very cheaply and it works great.
I used two thin metal strips 10mm x 20mm with double sided adhesive tape, the stuff that has a thin foam layer sandwiched between the the double sided tape. You can buy the tape at B&O, Auto Parts Stores etc. 
Apply the tape to one side of the metal strips
Clean a patch on where you want the door to stop - top runner track.
Remove the backing strip from the tape and mount the strips about with a 10mm gap between the two. Short side of the strips facing out.
Presto a cheap door stop that works fine.
Just slide the door along till it rides over the first strip and drops into the gap between the two.
The entire thickness of metal strip+foam+tape is about 1mm and doesn't cause any problems with the door sliding. 

 

I know I'm not technical, nor very practical. My lovely wife will be able to provide photographs to support this statement if required. Also, I don't have a panel van with a sliding door.

So, I don't understand, if the door rides over the first strip, why doesn't it just ride over the second one as well?

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Paul M Who - 2015-01-30 1:04 AM

 

Hi all, 

 Regarding the Stopsy.
 I created my own very simply and very cheaply and it works great.
I used two thin metal strips 10mm x 20mm with double sided adhesive tape, the stuff that has a thin foam layer sandwiched between the the double sided tape. You can buy the tape at B&O, Auto Parts Stores etc. 
Apply the tape to one side of the metal strips
Clean a patch on where you want the door to stop - top runner track.
Remove the backing strip from the tape and mount the strips about with a 10mm gap between the two. Short side of the strips facing out.
Presto a cheap door stop that works fine.
Just slide the door along till it rides over the first strip and drops into the gap between the two.
The entire thickness of metal strip+foam+tape is about 1mm and doesn't cause any problems with the door sliding. 

 

I don't know if it was Paul's van or not but I've seen this system used on site and it works very well. Only slight down side is that the door is held part open in one fixed position only which is why I prefer my little rubber wedge. Mind you on the up side it's fixed in place so thee is nothing to missplace. If it was your van Paul it was me who was chatting up your wife charming and most helpful lady.

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candapack - 2015-01-30 11:38 AM

I don't have a panel van with a sliding door.

So, I don't understand, if the door rides over the first strip, why doesn't it just ride over the second one as well?

 

The issue with the sliding door Chris is that it slides very freely and smoothly which great when you are on the level and want to open and shut it fully, or indeed leave it partly open.

 

However on a slope the sheer weight of the door makes it difficult to slide and particularly so from the inside when the doorway is, as so many are, partially obstructed by furniture.

 

With Paul's tip the door would slide over both strips - or several strips if you like more than one position - when pushed but whilst it rests between the two it would need a push to overcome the resistance of the strip after which it will run as intended.

 

With no strip resistance to prevent it moving the door will not stay where you open it unless you are parked on a level surface.

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Tracker - 2015-01-30 4:02 PM
candapack - 2015-01-30 11:38 AMI don't have a panel van with a sliding door.So, I don't understand, if the door rides over the first strip, why doesn't it just ride over the second one as well?
The issue with the sliding door Chris is that it slides very freely and smoothly which great when you are on the level and want to open and shut it fully, or indeed leave it partly open.However on a slope the sheer weight of the door makes it difficult to slide and particularly so from the inside when the doorway is, as so many are, partially obstructed by furniture.With Paul's tip the door would slide over both strips - or several strips if you like more than one position - when pushed but whilst it rests between the two it would need a push to overcome the resistance of the strip after which it will run as intended. With no strip resistance to prevent it moving the door will not stay where you open it unless you are parked on a level surface.

Thank you Tracker.
That is exactly how it works.
 As the upper runner is just like a metal wheel, while it rests between the two strips it will maintain its position even on a slight slope. You need to apply pressure to get it over the strips. I could ad more strips but at the moment the object is to hold it in a position where it acts as a privacy and wind shield. We only really find it necessary in campground/aires or layby rest stops.
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Tracker - 2015-01-30 4:02 PM

 

candapack - 2015-01-30 11:38 AM

I don't have a panel van with a sliding door.

So, I don't understand, if the door rides over the first strip, why doesn't it just ride over the second one as well?

 

The issue with the sliding door Chris is that it slides very freely and smoothly which great when you are on the level and want to open and shut it fully, or indeed leave it partly open.

 

However on a slope the sheer weight of the door makes it difficult to slide and particularly so from the inside when the doorway is, as so many are, partially obstructed by furniture.

 

With Paul's tip the door would slide over both strips - or several strips if you like more than one position - when pushed but whilst it rests between the two it would need a push to overcome the resistance of the strip after which it will run as intended.

 

With no strip resistance to prevent it moving the door will not stay where you open it unless you are parked on a level surface.

 

Ah, the light has dawned. Makes you wonder why the converter doesn't incorporate something like this.

Cheers, Chris

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To keep our sliding door open part way I put a bolt through one of the existing holes in the bottom runner framework located just behind it, I used a square headed bolt which I slotted through the opening and then turned it round by 1/8th so instead of a 'square' it was a 'diamond' behind the framework so couldn't come back out, I then put a couple of nuts on (last one was a locking one) to keep it in place and also give enough of a protrusion for the bottom door 'securing hook' to touch it to stop it from moving over it unless I pull the handle to move the hook (as you would when opening the door when it is totally closed). This means that regardless of the slope direction I can make the door stop on either side of the nut/bolt to keep it open. The key is to use a bolt of the right length so that it holds the door at that point when you want it to but doesn't cause problems with the door mechanism in normal opening/closing mode. If the slope is too great (not very often!) then the good old tennis ball comes into use.
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