Cliffy Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have gone and bought a damp meter I have tried it on the house and it does indicate that parts of the walls that I know are damper than others give a higher reading. Where should I test it on the motorhome? If I find some areas excessively damper than others what do I do about it? The motorhome has been laid up since October, Should I wait until it gets warmer before I check it out. I think it may be better that I don't check it then I won't worry about what I will have to do to put it right. :-( I have no reason to think I have a problem but it has not been checked in ten years. Useful comments gratefully accepted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandrat Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Cliffy, I've got a Protimeter PM301, it's similar to what the dealers and workshops use. There are other variants about but I can't comment on them as I'm not familiar with them. This one that I've got is sent for calibrating every year to Survey Express Services who have centres dotted around the country. You receive a calibration certificate every time it's done. They supply and service all types of safety equipment including underground detection equipment used by utilities companies, gas ,electricity and water. I think they are a must have piece of equipment as far as coachbuilt motorhomes are concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandrat Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Cliffy, I've got a Protimeter PM301, it's similar to what the dealers and workshops use. There are other variants about but I can't comment on them as I'm not familiar with them. This one that I've got is sent for calibrating every year to Survey Express Services who have centres dotted around the country. You receive a calibration certificate every time it's done. They supply and service all types of safety equipment including underground detection equipment used by utilities companies, gas ,electricity and water. I think they are a must have piece of equipment as far as coachbuilt motorhomes are concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandrat Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 If you do a damp check now after having it laid up for some considerable time you might get some alarming readings so air it out and warm it up or better still put a dehumidifier in it for a while, then do a reading check particularly under the window frames and inside the upper lockers then down below around the wheel arches. Hopefully all will be ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandrat Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 As you are probably aware a good damp meter is quite expensive, when I bought mine some time ago it cost£170 inc of vat and postage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandrat Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 As you are probably aware a good damp meter is quite expensive, when I bought mine some time ago it cost£170 inc of vat and postage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliffy Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 rolandrat - 2015-01-29 9:25 AM If you do a damp check now after having it laid up for some considerable time you might get some alarming readings so air it out and warm it up or better still put a dehumidifier in it for a while, then do a reading check particularly under the window frames and inside the upper lockers then down below around the wheel arches. Hopefully all will be ok. Thanks for that it gives me an idea of what to do next. If I do find an area of dampness is it a matter of finding where the damp is coming from and sealing it or will there be a need for stripping panels off and checking for internal damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandrat Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Unless it's very obvious where the water ingress is coming from that has caused the damp or damage to the panels then maybe a minor strip down of the area might have to be done. Staining of panelling could be a sign. If you are contemplating doing this then and you have the necessary skill then all well and good but if you haven't then leave well alone and contact a recommended body shop. If you are going to attempt it yourself it might be best to find out if replacement wall board and trim is still available for your model. If it's an Auto-Trail for instance then ring their stores and ask for Mike giving the year and build number and he will be able to let you know. Sometimes prices from there are eye watering and you might be able to source what you need elsewhere. Only recently I was talking to a very large body repair company who takes on work for all the major manufacturers and no matter who they are every one of them can have a water ingress problem of one sort or another. Just because they use the latest body assembly techniques and state 10 year water ingress warranty guarantees is a load of codswallop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandrat Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Unless it's very obvious where the water ingress is coming from that has caused the damp or damage to the panels then maybe a minor strip down of the area might have to be done. Staining of panelling could be a sign. If you are contemplating doing this then and you have the necessary skill then all well and good but if you haven't then leave well alone and contact a recommended body shop. If you are going to attempt it yourself it might be best to find out if replacement wall board and trim is still available for your model. If it's an Auto-Trail for instance then ring their stores and ask for Mike giving the year and build number and he will be able to let you know. Sometimes prices from there are eye watering and you might be able to source what you need elsewhere. Only recently I was talking to a very large body repair company who takes on work for all the major manufacturers and no matter who they are every one of them can have a water ingress problem of one sort or another. Just because they use the latest body assembly techniques and state 10 year water ingress warranty guarantees is a load of codswallop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will86 Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Having an all-metal body, any water issues can be mainly put aside but I would imagine with coach-builds over a few seasons and with continuous testing it would be interesting to figure out how any damp issues move about related to rain and wind pressure and which way the van is parked, to removing all absorbent furnishing materials indoors etc. Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliffy Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 Will85 - 2015-02-01 1:16 PM Having an all-metal body, any water issues can be mainly put aside but I would imagine with coach-builds over a few seasons and with continuous testing it would be interesting to figure out how any damp issues move about related to rain and wind pressure and which way the van is parked, to removing all absorbent furnishing materials indoors etc. Will Will I thought that there is a wooden frame between the inner and outer panels. Are you saying that this is not the case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will86 Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 No idea, sorry. Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandrat Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Van conversions can and do leak occasionally. One area to check on if a leak is suspect is the welded seam joints on the roof in particular the rear seam across the back of Fiat X250's. Also roof lights and side window seals especially sliding Seitz ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbee Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 My tribute 650-parked at home faced uphill slightly-luckily!!!During storm on isle of white water was clattering down past my right ear-sat in passenger seat swivelled.I jammed tea towels into the seatbelt slot,4wet in 15 mins.Back home checked-where plastic roof bar removed for awning bolt holes had been left open.Also the TWO thin fixings for the awning 3.5m-were bent up and pulling the 4 small spot welds off the roof. Worth checking before spring and trips out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliffy Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 I went and visited the van in storage yesterday and took the damp meter with me and did a quick check around in likely damp areas and was pleased to see the readings barely got in to double figures even though the melting snow was pouring off the van roof and the wheels were in standing water. I will give it a thorough check over when I get it out for the season at the end of this month but it is looking hopeful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southender Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Stick it where the sun doesn`t shine and see how wet it is. That way it will be an accurate reading and not an artificial one having been dried by the warmth of the sun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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