DaveWH Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Good Evening Would any of our members be able to assist . My hymer B544 2004 model is fitted with a Dometic fridge model No 7401 It works fine on gas and 240v. when on 12 volt traveling mode it does not work. It is designed to work only when the engine is running but it doesn't. I have checked all fuses that I can find and there all ok. I presume that there must be a relay to allow the current to get to the fridge when engine is running. If so where is it? There is a 12 volt supply to the fridge for normal running on gas and 240 volt as interior light works ok any polite suggestions gratefully received regards Dave wh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliffy Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Just fixed a simiar problem on my van the relays are just next to the engine battery. Mine is a ducato coach built so probly does not help you much but is worth looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickt Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 My relay is on the back of fridge . Check if the 12 volt heater is working Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 There are four possibilities, as listed below. However, as a starting point, I'd be inclined to first check whether there is a live 12V supply at the fridge 12V terminal block. As you have a fridge light that is working you will know that supply is from the leisure battery, so you are looking for the other supply, that is only live when the engine is running. If there is 12V at this terminal with the engine running, but the fridge isn't cooling, it is possible that the element has failed, or that its connection is detached, loose, or corroded. See 4) below. 1) A disconnected or damaged wire, or a corroded connection, between the relay and the fridge terminal. However, there are a number of multi-pin connectors plugged into the rear panel of the Elektroblock unit (see 2 below) just above the 12V fuses. First try giving all these a wiggle and a push, in case the one feeding the fridge has become loose. Otherwise, you'll need to trace the wiring back from the fridge to the relay checking for faults. 2) A failed 12V fuse. I'm guessing that Hymer were using Schaudt equipment in 2003/4, and that this will contain the relevant relay. However, it there are also two relevant fuses: a 20A (possibly 25A) fuse for the fridge 12V cooling supply, and a 2A fuse (may possibly be on a supplementary fuse panel beneath the dashboard) for the alternator signal line that actuates the relay. The fuses will be flat bladed automotive type. The relevant 20A fuse will/should be labelled "Kühlschrank", or similar, and should be with other fuses on the rear panel of the Elektroblock. The 2A fuse may be labelled "D+". The Elektroblock unit is fairly bulky, and apart from the wording "Elektroblock" will also carry a designation/type number "EBL" followed by numbers, usually just two. Try looking beneath the driver's and front passenger's seats. 3) A failed relay. If so, I suspect that the relay will be within the Schaudt Electroblock and that, unless you are fairly handy with 12V electrics, you will need to send the whole unit away to be repaired. A word of warning: this unit also houses the 12V power pack/battery charger and so is 240V mains connected when on EHU. Disconnect the 240V supply to the van before investigating the Elektroblock itself beyond the 12V plugs/fuses. 4) A failed 12V element. These are replaceable but are a fiddle to fit. They are hockey stick shaped and lie about half way up the main riser tube on the rear of the fridge, on the same (usually right hand) side as the gas burner. Disconnect the 240V supply to the van first as the 240V element is very close to the 12V element. By sliding your hand up this tube from the bottom, you should be able to feel the two elements, generally side by side at roughly the same distance up. If you have 12V to the fridge terminal block this is the likely fault, but it would be wise to check the wiring before assuming the element needs to be replaced. If you have a multimeter, set it to measure Ohms, and try testing the element's resistance. If the resistance is near infinite the heater element has failed and it will have to be replaced. I think Leisure Spares sell them. Not especially costly. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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