Sparks1061 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Good Morning everyone Picked up my new (Preloved) 2010 Laika 713R on Friday and am loving it, However I do have problems with the heating (and as it´s -11C at the moment this is a real problem) At the moment I have no water in the system (See -11 above) so am trying to use it for heat only, but 30 secs after switching on the red light comes on and the fan which I can hear starting up shuts down. According to the manual the problem is either no gas reaching the system, but I can exclude that as it does the same on Gas and Mains power. the other option is "Conbustion air infeed or exhaust outket is sealed" Now I have found one Truma Inlet/outlet pipe on the side of the van, I have no idea which it is (I know it´s for the heating because the cover has Trama printed on it) and as far as I can see that is clear. Does anyone have any idea where I should be looking for other inlet/outlet pipes? or if there is anything else I should be trying before I have to contact the dealer on Monday (Who is a 3,5hr drive away) Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayjsj Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I have a 4E but they are similar.They refer to the outlets with the ' butterfly valves' inside the van , if too many are closed off that creates a back pressure and an 'overheat' situation within the heater casing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks1061 Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 Would have been nice if it was that easy. But have checked that all the vents are open and still have the same problem. Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spospe Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 As there is no water in the system are you sure that you have the controls set to air only and not water and air? Very basic I know, but you would not have been the first to make this mistake and have the heater shut down to protect the empty boiler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennyhb Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I have a Combi 6 I accidentally set it to hot water with the boiler drained down, boiler still fired up and ran cycling on the thermostat, it was on for quite a few days, got through 20 litres of gas. No harm to to the boiler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithl Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Hi SParks1061, I'm slightly puzzled by your comments, you say first of all that the fault is present on BOTH gas and mains... Sparks1061 - 2015-03-22 5:07 AM According to the manual the problem is either no gas reaching the system, but I can exclude that as it does the same on Gas and Mains power. But then go on to say you are looking for the fault in the COMBUSTION air intake or exhaust system... Sparks1061 - 2015-03-22 5:07 AM the other option is "Combustion air infeed or exhaust outlet is sealed" Now I have found one Truma Inlet/outlet pipe on the side of the van, I have no idea which it is (I know it´s for the heating because the cover has Trama printed on it) and as far as I can see that is clear. Does anyone have any idea where I should be looking for other inlet/outlet pipes? Surely for MAINS operation there will be no air flow through the combustion system. This seems to imply (to me at least) that this is not the cause of your fault and you are looking in the wrong direction. Please can you confirm you get EXACTLY the same fault on mains as on gas. Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 The “Combustion air infeed or exhaust outlet is sealed” message in Truma’s Operating Instructions is followed by the advice "Inspect openings for contamination (slush, ice, leaves, etc.) and remove contamination if necessary.” A Truma Combi has a ‘double-duct’ that leads from the heater to the outside air. (This is the inlet/outlet pipe with the Truma-marked ‘wall cowl’ that you found.) The inner duct carries the heater’s exhaust gasses, while combustion-air is drawn into the heater’s gas-burner through the outer duct. This double-duct is what Truma is referring to above and if either of the ducts is obstructed the heater will shut down. It has been known for spider-webs within the duct to cause problems, but I’m doubtful that ‘duct obstruction’ can be the cause of your problem as you say that the heater shuts down when 230V-only operation is selected. Overheating plainly won’t be the cause either as the heater shuts down within 30 seconds of it being switched on. Even if the heater were not shutting down after a few seconds, it should not matter whether the water-reservoir is full or empty. As lennyhb mentions, even if one inadvertently selected water-heating-only operation with an empty water-reservoir the heater would still go through a ‘normal’ heating cycle. The empty water-reservoir would be heated until it reached a temperature when the water-temperature thermostat would shut off the heating process. As there would be no water in the reservoir to act as an insulator, the reservoir would heat up quickly and cool down quickly, so the heating cycle would be quite rapid. A Combi heater does not ‘know’ whether its water-reservoir has water in it, so a shut-down after 30 seconds won’t relate to how the heater’s control-switches have been set. Truma Combis have a trouble-shooting feature based on flashing lights and this might help you identify where the problem lies http://users.telenet.be/S-cargo/manuals/bcl_769_2_1_0_en.pdf Truma’s Installation Instructions for your heater include diagrams that may be useful. You can download them from here http://dealer.truma.com/_anweisungen/Truma-Katalog/pdf_verzeichnis/30_000/34020_29300.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks1061 Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Thanks all for your comments and suggestions, I found the fault code guide on line and was able to get a more accurate reading on the fault which is: Current for circulating air motor too low” “Circulating air motor or connection plug failure" not even close to what the user manual gives as a fault based on the lights on the controller. Anyway contacted the dealer first thing Monday morning and they arranged for me to take the van to a local service place, today was the first chance I had, had to wait around a couple of hours while they went and got the part, but it is now all sorted. The problem was a faulty air circulation motor which they replaced. Now the van is toasty warm, lets hope it stays that way :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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