Jump to content

Scooters in garages


DonB

Recommended Posts

Am in the process of buying a Chausson 717 GA, so for the first time we will be putting our motor scooter in the garage instead of a trailer. Yes it will fit, and the weight allowances are ok. Is there anything else we should look out for?Any sensible tips or suggestions welcome!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have carried my Honda sfx scooter,75kl in weight in my last 3 motorhomes, No problem must use a loading ramp unless you are very strong, Never been any problems ratchet the scooter down well so as not to move about when travelling, Fesspark
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
DonB - 2015-05-14 5:11 PM

 

Yes it will fit, and the weight allowances are ok. Is there anything else we should look out for?Any sensible tips or suggestions welcome!

 

Hi..

A decent, secure ramp, that has no way of tipping or skidding away whilst loading, would be my first priority..

 

Then maybe look at constructing a simple timber inlay frame, so as to form a "groove", to retain the bike's wheel(s)

( a sort of a "H", only with two "horizontals", several inches apart, laying flat on the garage floor and sized so that it has no sideways or fore and aft movement)

 

Don't be tempted to ratchet strap the bike down too hard though, as that can bugger up fork seals...

(..if a bike is correctly loaded, it only really needs to be lightly "retained"...)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

pepe63 - 2015-08-03 11:06 AM
DonB - 2015-05-14 5:11 PM Yes it will fit, and the weight allowances are ok. Is there anything else we should look out for?Any sensible tips or suggestions welcome!
Hi..A decent, secure ramp, that has no way of tipping or skidding away whilst loading, would be my first priority..Then maybe look at constructing a simple timber inlay frame, so as to form a "groove", to retain the bike's wheel(s) ( a sort of a "H", only with two "horizontals", several inches apart, laying flat on the garage floor and sized so that it has no sideways or fore and aft movement)Don't be tempted to ratchet strap the bike down too hard though, as that can bugger up fork seals...(..if a bike is correctly loaded, it only really needs to be lightly "retained"...)

Something used by people transporting race bikes to the track etc.....I know I was one.............put a strap/strong elastic band around the front brake lever once the bike is in position.  With the brake applied sideways movement is inhibited ergo one less thing to be concerned about.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

pepe63 - 2015-08-03 11:06 AM.....................Don't be tempted to ratchet strap the bike down too hard though, as that can bugger up fork seals...(..if a bike is correctly loaded, it only really needs to be lightly "retained"...)

But, remember that if you have the misfortune to get "front-ended", and that 100kg or so of "lightly restrained" bike breaks free, it will some straight through the middle of your van (intervening furniture notwithstanding) at whatever velocity you were travelling before the accident.

 

You may consider that to be the least of your problems in such an accident, but it is hardly going to make matters better, even if only from the point of view of those trying to release you.

 

However lightly the restraints are tightened, they must at least be adequate to the task of keeping the bike in place which, IMO, means that attachments to the rear wall of the van, or to the garage floor, will need substantial reinforcement. Neither component is designed to resist the kinetic energy released when 100kg travelling at 60MPH or so more or less stops dead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have my Sachs MadAss in the garage & I do rachet it down quite securely after an occasion when it did tip over. Fortunately it only punctured the foam lining of the rear wall and was not itself damaged.

 

I now have the wooden rails for the tyres as described and I strap it below the telescopic part of the forks and from the rear luggage rack & it does not move! As an additional measure, And to protect our electric fold-up bikes, I have 2 old single airbeds (the material variety) rolled up inside plastic bags which I inflate & place between the Sachs & electric bikes as an air cushion. (You could easily use dinghy buoyancy bags as an alternative). Infinitely variable, lightweight, easy to use and they stop anything from moving/rolling around.

 

The general arrangement is obvious from the photo (airbed not inflated).

 

 

2004885543_madassgarage.thumb.jpg.4b479a97b54c9139b42ba61852ba6093.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have carried a scooter for many years in a garage. Simple ramp and guide in the garage which I run the scooter up backward so my hands are on the brakes. The front straps are on crossed over the handlebars and set to a fixed length. Once hooked at the front I put two crossed straps on each side at the back. Just in case! I then put the removable top box on as the scooter wont go in or out with it on. Hence, when locked on the scooter cant be taken out, nice and secure.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brian Kirby - 2015-08-03 12:03 PM

 

pepe63 - 2015-08-03 11:06 AM.....................Don't be tempted to ratchet strap the bike down too hard though, as that can bugger up fork seals...(..if a bike is correctly loaded, it only really needs to be lightly "retained"...)

But, remember that if you have the misfortune to get "front-ended", and that 100kg or so of "lightly restrained" bike breaks free, it will some straight through the middle of your van (intervening furniture notwithstanding) at whatever velocity you were travelling before the accident.

 

You may consider that to be the least of your problems in such an accident, but it is hardly going to make matters better, even if only from the point of view of those trying to release you.

 

However lightly the restraints are tightened, they must at least be adequate to the task of keeping the bike in place which, IMO, means that attachments to the rear wall of the van, or to the garage floor, will need substantial reinforcement. Neither component is designed to resist the kinetic energy released when 100kg travelling at 60MPH or so more or less stops dead.

As Brian said reinforced anchor points is a must. I fitted mine through the garage floor and then through the ALKO chassis

DSCF1963.JPG.c8b39fe14836eb161500c187139d3fc2.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I carry a Honda PCX scooter in the garage. I had a look at commercial racks for fitting inside the garage but eventually built my own using wood.

 

It is basically a U section, which when the scooter is loaded, keeps it upright while I strap it down.

 

The maximum width of the scooter tyre is just less than 100mm. So, bought a 100x50mm length of timber and 12mm thick plywood. The plywood was cut into 150mm wide strips and screwed to either side of the timber forming a 100mm upstand. The 12mm wide plywood seemed a bit flimsy so added a further layer of 12mm plywood by screwing them both together giving a total width of 24mm.

 

I found that the 100mm upstand nearest the door fouled the underside of the scooter when bring the scooter up the ramp. This was solved by tapering down the upstand for a distance of 300mm nearest the door from 100mm down to 40mm.

 

I drive the scooter up the ramp using engine power. Sometimes the back wheel doesn't exactly follow the front wheel and has difficulty aligning with the U section. In these circumstances, I just drop the back wheel into the U shaped slot using an old fashion tyre lever.

 

The scooter is secured by a handlebar webbing system (found at motorbike shops) and with ratchet straps to the cargo rail either side of the garage floor.

 

I've tried various systems including an electric winch but this is by far the easiest method I've found so far. Reversing the scooter out is easily done using gravity.

 

I need to remove the wing mirrors and rear top box to park the scooter in the garage. Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would not be happy with the attachment points shown in lameduck's photo, any major forces are liable to "pull-out" the mountings from the garage floor /wall. I do agree with keninpalamos, the mountings NEED to be secured through the chassis. Then any strapping will re-act similarly to a seat belt in the event of an "incident"

Any motorised scooter / motorbike/ electric wheelchair will have a weight similar to a passenger.

Mountings not secured to the chassis are going to akin to fitting a seat belt through the floor only.

 

Food for thought.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

flicka - 2015-08-04 11:29 PM

 

I would not be happy with the attachment points shown in lameduck's photo, any major forces are liable to "pull-out" the mountings from the garage floor /wall. .

 

Flicka - I do not really understand why you would not be happy - the attachment points are not in view?

Four Heavy weight D rings in each corner of the garage, bolted through the floor to a metal plate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

flicka - 2015-08-04 11:29 PM

 

I would not be happy with the attachment points shown in lameduck's photo, any major forces are liable to "pull-out" the mountings from the garage floor /wall. I do agree with keninpalamos, the mountings NEED to be secured through the chassis. Then any strapping will re-act similarly to a seat belt in the event of an "incident"

Any motorised scooter / motorbike/ electric wheelchair will have a weight similar to a passenger.

Mountings not secured to the chassis are going to akin to fitting a seat belt through the floor only.

 

Food for thought.

 

Yes, agree(in part), any lashing points should ideally be picking up through chassis rails or some existing steel sub-structure..but in reality that is not always going to be possible...

 

Some MHs will have little, if any steel work and what there is, it's unlikely to be exactly where the anchor points need locating (..unless of cause it's been designed for that purpose?)

 

Also anchor points directly through the chassis rails may mean that they're unable to be reached easily by some?.. and/or that they just don't align correctly with what needs securing? (If they can..and they do, then job's done..:-D )

 

If fitting additional lashing rings, at the very least, I'd look at using spreader plates/angles (preferably bracing back to an existing sub-frame/chassis).

 

Although, having waffled all of that, lets not forget, we're talking about something which is contained within a "garage", ratchet strapped down, and probably wedged in with awnings/sunloungers/bbqs/Cadacs/push bikes etc etc...

 

...whereas your full height TecTower, fridge-freezer-cooker combo, is probably just screwed to the wall of the living area (just being the cab?) with little more than a handful of self tappers.... 8-)

 

(Sorry Jeremy' , somehow I crossed/missed your post )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

laimeduck - 2015-08-05 8:24 AM

 

flicka - 2015-08-04 11:29 PM

 

I would not be happy with the attachment points shown in lameduck's photo, any major forces are liable to "pull-out" the mountings from the garage floor /wall. .

 

Flicka - I do not really understand why you would not be happy - the attachment points are not in view?

Four Heavy weight D rings in each corner of the garage, bolted through the floor to a metal plate.

Hi Jeremy what I tried to elude to is that a motorbike / scooter will be the equivalent of an adult passenger & the forces will be similar. Motorhome floors are often made of a wood / insulation sandwich which COULD easily be damaged just from the effect of braking & cornering or more so in the event of an accident. The further the mounting points are away from the chassis those forces will be increased. Your fixing points appear to be at the extremity (at the point where the floor meets the wall) You maybe happy with your method, but IMHO but maybe worthwhile checking there is no signs of damage or distortion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Flicka/John

 

No I'm happy enough. The floor is solid ply, and the whole floor is covered in 3-4mm ali plate through which the bolts pass to the steel plates below.

 

Should there be a big accident and the bike did tear loose, there is a dividing wall, shower unit, bench seat, wardrobe, kitchen sink unit, fridge freezer, oven & hob unit between the passenger cab & the bike, so if the bike gets that far I think we would be brown bread anyway!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...