Fridge and Heating fuses

[Willum]

We have a 2008 Burstner A748 and have owned it for 2 years. It now has what may (or may not) be a problem.

(yes, I know we haven't got a 747 any more but can you change a username?)

We've come across a bit of an oddity whilst we were having the annual habitation check done.

Here's the background:

1. Habitation heating and hot water is taken care of by the Alde liquid-filled system - and very good it is, too! It is also factory fitted with a secondary heat exchanger to use the heat of the engine cooling system to heat the habitation area 'on the run'. It gets several mentions in the Burstner handbook. There is a separate pump and 'PUMPE' control switch to circulate the engine coolant when the engine isn't running, the idea being you can pre-heat the engine in very cold weather, by using the habitation area heating system. I tried it once, just to see if it works. It does.

2. We have a standard issue Dometic tower unit-type AES fridge freezer.

 

About 3 months ago the fridge/freezer quit and blew the control unit fuse - not the main 15 amp fuse. There is a little 2 amp fuse for the control circuit on the EBL 220. The space where it goes is marked for 2 amp as well. I went to replace the 2 amp and found a 5 amp in there. I put a 2 amp in and it promptly blew again. Along came Mr Dometic, checked it all out and replaced the control board and fuse . Away went the fridge again, no problems. It would appear there was a batch of control boards with dodgy earths, which fry the components and wreck the board.

Anyhow, all done and dusted and we are all happy.

 

Next (yesterday) comes the habitation check.

I got a call from the company (well respected local dealer) to ask what the 'PUMPE' control switch was all about, because every time they operated it, the fridge control circuit fuse blew.

I explained its use and they checked everything they could for safety and faults, said (paraphrased) 'Dunno, ask Burstner' and electrically disconnected the pump to stop any further fuse-blowing.

 

There is no evidence of butchery/bodgery of the electrical system. I've read every bit of the manuals I can find that refer to the pump and heat exchanger system and looked at (what little there is of) the available wiring diagrams for the vehicle and EBL220. None mention what circuit is used to supply the pump. I have a suspicion the pump gets its supply from the AES control circuit and that is why the fuse was uprated. Trouble is, there's no documentary record at all.

 

Please, has anyone got a circuit diagram indicating where and how the pump is supplied, or knowledge of that side of the system?

 

Will

[Brian Kirby]

Sorry Will, I can't answer your question, but have three of my own that may help clarify.

 

747Heavy - 2015-08-08 3:10 PM................... Along came Mr Dometic, checked it all out and replaced the control board and fuse . Away went the fridge again, no problems..........................

Question 1. What rating fuse did the Dometic engineer fit: 2A or 5A?

 

Next (yesterday) comes the habitation check.

I got a call from the company (well respected local dealer) to ask what the 'PUMPE' control switch was all about, because every time they operated it, the fridge control circuit fuse blew............................Will

Question 2. Did you check operation of the PUMPE switch between the Dometic engineer fitting the new fuse etc, and the habitation check?

 

Question 3. Assuming the answer to Q1 is 2A, and to Q2 is "no", have you tried substituting a 5A fuse for the 2A and then operating the PUMPE switch? If so, what happened? If the answer is that the fuse remained intact and the pump ran, I think you have your answer. If not, I think this may be worth trying.

 

The pump wiring should be suitable for the load, and with a 5A fuse fitted the wiring to the fridge should have been uprated to the same cross-section, as the fuse is there to prevent the wiring from overload and consequent heating up. 5A fuse on 2A wiring = bad, 5A fuse on 5A wiring = good! :-) However, it may well be that the installed fridge wiring is already of suitable cross-section, not because of the load, but to avoid voltage drop on what I suspect may be a longish circuit.

[Robinhood]

...have you checked the dedicated fridge control pin at the Electrobloc, to see if it has been piggy-backed there?

 

The various blocs do vary somewhat, but diagrams I have here indicate that this should be pin 7 on the Mate-n-Lock connector in Block 7 (on the front of the EBL, and by my reckoning the 3rd of the four in the top row). It also confirms a 2 amp fuse for this circuit in normal use.

 

Now, it could be possible that there is a single wire at this point, split somewhere else out of sight, but it is much more likely (if the circuit has also been used for "pumpe") that it has been dualled at the pin (i.e. two wires inserted and crimped together into the block).

 

If the latter is the case, then the (otherwise dedicated) fridge control circuit has been used for an additional feed, and your symptoms would indicate it is the "pumpe". There may be some logic to this, as the fridge controller circuit is "always on", regardless of the control panel switch, and one would assume that the pump circuit in question would have the same requirement.

 

HTH

[747]

Aha, I see we have an impostor in the camp ..... well, forum. ;-)

 

When I had my 747, I had a wiring diagram in English for the EBL99. You should be able to find one somewhere. I passed mine on when I sold the van. BTW, don't worry about changing your name because you changed your van. I prefer to be 747 since I bought a Burstner Delphin. 8-)

 

You have 12 volt power in the Hab area (unless you turn it off at the panel). I suggest you turn it off and see if the blower for your Hab heating system still works. Your Fridge should work as normal but you need to find where the power is supplied from for the heating system. If it still works, then you need to trace the wiring manually.

 

I am a bit puzzled by this 2 amp fuse. Is it one of the fuses in the EBL itself or is it the 2 amp fuse close but not part of the EBL? The one I remember on my van was close to the EBL and was next to a 50 amp fuse. If it is part of the EBL, then a wiring diagram should make it easy to trace the fault.

[Robinhood]

....on an EBL220 (rather than an EBL99) I suspect it is the 2A fuse third from right on the top row (it may be the other 2A fuse, but the fuzzy picture and my German lead me to believe it is the one I mention).

 

I've also marked the connection that i think is the dedicated fridge control output (protected by said fuse), and this is the one I suggest the number of wired exiting (via the plug which will be there) are counted.

 

 

 

[Willum]

Brian Kirby - 2015-08-08 4:31 PM

 

Sorry Will, I can't answer your question, but have three of my own that may help clarify.

 

747Heavy - 2015-08-08 3:10 PM................... Along came Mr Dometic, checked it all out and replaced the control board and fuse . Away went the fridge again, no problems..........................

Question 1. What rating fuse did the Dometic engineer fit: 2A or 5A?

 

Next (yesterday) comes the habitation check.

I got a call from the company (well respected local dealer) to ask what the 'PUMPE' control switch was all about, because every time they operated it, the fridge control circuit fuse blew............................Will

Question 2. Did you check operation of the PUMPE switch between the Dometic engineer fitting the new fuse etc, and the habitation check?

 

Question 3. Assuming the answer to Q1 is 2A, and to Q2 is "no", have you tried substituting a 5A fuse for the 2A and then operating the PUMPE switch? If so, what happened? If the answer is that the fuse remained intact and the pump ran, I think you have your answer. If not, I think this may be worth trying.

 

The pump wiring should be suitable for the load, and with a 5A fuse fitted the wiring to the fridge should have been uprated to the same cross-section, as the fuse is there to prevent the wiring from overload and consequent heating up. 5A fuse on 2A wiring = bad, 5A fuse on 5A wiring = good! :-) However, it may well be that the installed fridge wiring is already of suitable cross-section, not because of the load, but to avoid voltage drop on what I suspect may be a longish circuit.

 

Hi Brian. Thanks for the response and food for thought. Here's what my pondering has produced:

 

Answers:

Question 1. 2 amp

 

Question 2. No. I didn't know the pump was on that circuit, so no suspicion arose. Had no reason to use it, as happily the weather has been warm and sunny. :-D

 

Question 3. I haven't tried the substitution trick yet and a bit wary of doing so. (I'm old enough and ugly enough to have seen the results of oversized fuses - eg: my brother using a piece of 4" nail instead of a 16 amp glass fuse that kept blowing on his motorbike. It set fire to his backside an hour later. *-))

I'm quite happy with your take on wiring and fuse sizes. They are the same as mine - and the reason I asked if anyone had a circuit diagram of the setup. If it was built like that, it should be fine. In reality it was obviously like that (5 amp fused) when I got it and probably functioned perfectly OK 'til the AES board in the fridge failed.

 

However, it may well be that the installed fridge wiring is already of suitable cross-section, not because of the load, but to avoid voltage drop on what I suspect may be a longish circuit.

 

I've been and taken another look at the pump and vehicle wiring. They are the same gauge. Assuming the pump manufacturer used a suitable gauge, I think it's safe to say the vehicle loom is suitable as well, at least as far as the pump circuit is concerned. In terms of cable run length for the fridge AES circuit: It's a minimum of 5 metres, by my reckoning. A good reason for going over the minimum cable gauge.

That said, the total power run for the pump must be at least 8 metres. Without getting the calipers out, I'd estimate the conductor diameter to be between 0.75 and 1.0 mm. Adequate?

 

That leaves two questions in my mind:

 

1. In terms of internal construction, is there a problem taking more current (than the original 2 amps) from the EBL? I would not have thought so.

2. Is it a good idea to use a fuse 2 1/2 times the necessary value to protect the fridge AES board (or the rest of the system from its possible misbehaviour)? It blew the original 5 amp when it failed, so probably not a problem ......

 

Will

[Willum]

Robinhood - 2015-08-08 4:51 PM

 

...have you checked the dedicated fridge control pin at the Electrobloc, to see if it has been piggy-backed there?

 

The various blocs do vary somewhat, but diagrams I have here indicate that this should be pin 7 on the Mate-n-Lock connector in Block 7 (on the front of the EBL, and by my reckoning the 3rd of the four in the top row). It also confirms a 2 amp fuse for this circuit in normal use.

 

Now, it could be possible that there is a single wire at this point, split somewhere else out of sight, but it is much more likely (if the circuit has also been used for "pumpe") that it has been dualled at the pin (i.e. two wires inserted and crimped together into the block).

 

If the latter is the case, then the (otherwise dedicated) fridge control circuit has been used for an additional feed, and your symptoms would indicate it is the "pumpe". There may be some logic to this, as the fridge controller circuit is "always on", regardless of the control panel switch, and one would assume that the pump circuit in question would have the same requirement.

 

HTH

 

I follow the logic and I'll go and check - which means stand-on-my-head-with-a-torch-between-my-teeth-whilst-trying-not-to-let-my-glasses-(a necessary evil, these days) fall-into-the-wiring

 

Will

[Willum]

747 - 2015-08-08 10:16 PM

 

Aha, I see we have an impostor in the camp ..... well, forum. ;-)

 

Blast! I've been rumbled.......... :D

 

When I had my 747, I had a wiring diagram in English for the EBL99. You should be able to find one somewhere. I passed mine on when I sold the van. BTW, don't worry about changing your name because you changed your van. I prefer to be 747 since I bought a Burstner Delphin. 8-)

 

You have 12 volt power in the Hab area (unless you turn it off at the panel). I suggest you turn it off and see if the blower for your Hab heating system still works. Your Fridge should work as normal but you need to find where the power is supplied from for the heating system. If it still works, then you need to trace the wiring manually.

 

I'm on Alde, so it's a pump (another one) not a fan and yes, it - and the rest of the heating system runs when the 12 volt is off, as does the fridge. That's as I would expect, since I guess you don't want to shut either down unless the vehicle is being laid up. It also explains why the 'PUMPE' stays live as well. It's part of the heating system, albeit an option.

 

I am a bit puzzled by this 2 amp fuse. Is it one of the fuses in the EBL itself or is it the 2 amp fuse close but not part of the EBL? The one I remember on my van was close to the EBL and was next to a 50 amp fuse. If it is part of the EBL, then a wiring diagram should make it easy to trace the fault.

 

The fuse is on the EBL220, exactly where RobinHood says - as in third from the right, on the top row - shown in the photo. I remember the one you speak of on the 747 - top left above the EBL99 and, I think, part of the vehicle-to-leisure battery charging system.

I've found an EBL220 wiring diagram/instruction manual on line to try and make sense of. I'll also try and post a link to it for anyone to download as well.

 

Will

[Brian Kirby]

747Heavy - 2015-08-09 9:53 AM............................

1. In terms of internal construction, is there a problem taking more current (than the original 2 amps) from the EBL? I would not have thought so.

2. Is it a good idea to use a fuse 2 1/2 times the necessary value to protect the fridge AES board (or the rest of the system from its possible misbehaviour)? It blew the original 5 amp when it failed, so probably not a problem ......Will

For total certainty, you need to know the actual consumption of the pump and the fridge board. If you have the Dometic manual for the fridge it should tell you what that is, or where on the fridge to find it. If you don't have the manual, they can be downloaded from the Dometic website. Can you locate the pump? If so, can you find a rating plate on it that shows its power consumption, either in Watts or in Amps? That will enable its current draw to be established.

 

In response to your question 1, in view of the original configuration, I would very much doubt that there would be a problem. I think this part of the EBL functions only as a fuseboard. After all, the 5A fuse had probably been there for about 7 years, and you say you had previously run the pump once without mishap. The EBL had withstood that, plus the fuse blowing when the fridge panel failed, and I assume is still giving good service. So, I can't see that putting back a fuse of the original rating would cause any damage to the EBL.

 

I response to question 2, it is not generally a good idea to increase specified fuse sizes! However, in this case you have two reasons to do so.

 

First, a 5A fuse was (presumably) originally fitted and, as 1 above, has functioned satisfactorily for the past 7 years. One has to have some confidence in the judgement of the original designer. I don't know your van, but assume it originally had a "Winter Pack" or similar specified, as I suspect the standard "vanilla" heater would have been one of the Truma Combi blown air type. I'm therefore assuming that this uprating of the fuse, without re-labelling the EBL fuse holder accordingly, will have been carried out by Burstner in consultation with Schaudt, probably so that they could use off-the-shelf items for the relatively small number of vans so specified.

 

Second, since the wiring appears sufficient for the task, and since the fridge panel failure blew the 5A fuse fitted, it seems the designated fail-safe worked as intended. The fuse rating relates primarily to the capacity of the wiring it protects. The "normal" current to the fridge board (i.e. in the absence of the heating pump) would not justify more than 2A wiring protected by a 2A fuse. However, it seems from your observations that wiring may have been increased in section for voltage drop reasons. In the absence of the (assumed) shared supply to the pump, it would probably still have had a 2A fuse fitted. That would mean that the fuse would blow well before the wiring even approached its rated capacity, rather than when it was exceeding that capacity. So, greater protection for the wiring, with no disadvantage elsewhere. So, on balance, I can't see much risk in re-fitting a fuse of the same rating as was fitted to the van when you got it (which seems likely to be the rating with which it was originally supplied when new), in which condition it has worked without problem during the two years you have had it. This should have no impact whatever on operation of the fridge, but can easily be checked for peace of mind. Then turn off the fridge and briefly operate the pump. If the fuse blows there is a problem with the pump - which may purely relate to it not having been used for two years. At least you will then know why the fuse repeatedly blew when the pump was energised during the hab check! If it doesn't blow, and the pump runs, then you know why a 5A fuse is needed. Then, with the pump running, turn on the fridge. If all is still OK, you know why the 5A fuse was originally fitted!

 

But, in view of the history of 2A fuses blowing, the fact that the system remained functional after the 5A fuse was blown by the (now repaired) fridge defect, the fact that a 5A fuse was originally fitted (or at least was already fitted when you got the van), and the fact that it has all worked satisfactorily with a 5A fuse during the past two years, I can't see that the above test presents particular risks, even in the absence of the total certainty of knowing the actual consumption of both fridge and pump.

[Willum]

Right!

 

I've dutifully stood on my head - and my glasses have fallen in the birds-nest of wiring, more than once - and I have a little more info.

 

1. The power feed wire is piggy-backed into pin 7 on BL7 for a positive feed which goes to the 'PUMPE' switch. This I know because with inevitable Deutcher efficiency and Burstner build quality, the cable is numbered '124' at both ends :-D Coming away from the 'PUMPE' switch, the wire is numbered '125' and, after some contortionism , reappears as '125' and is the supply to the physical pump, itself.

 

2. On closer inspection, the Burstner-fitted cable that supplies the system is a heavier grade of cable than the one fitted to the 'PUMPE' by Alde.

 

3. The person who carried out the habitation check obviously couldn't find a 2 amp fuse for the EBL - so he put a 1 amp in, instead. 8-) Fortunately, it would appear the fridge AES unit doesn't need much. He also CUT THE WIRE adjacent to the pump as a means of isolating it, instead of simply pulling the connector off the terminal at the switch! *-) Ta!! More contortionism to join it back up. I'll be speaking to them tomorrow...............

 

4. Inspecting the EBL220 wiring diagram, it would appear the 2 amp supply for the AES is taken from an internal busbar. I would have thought It should make little difference if it draws (potentially) 60 watts, or 24 but I'll try asking Scaudt/Burstner in due course.

 

5. A lot of the Burstner wiring is what looks like varying sizes of round, two-core, mains 'flex' ie, a brown and a blue covered conductor, sheathed in moulded white PVC. The standard system appears to be brown for negative, as opposed to brown for live in a standard household circuit. A little confusing at first. *-)

 

6. Just to add a little more confusion, there is a green wire labelled 'PUMPE' in the birds-nest adjacent to the EBL outlets. It would appear to be the supply to the fresh water tank 'PUMPE' It vanishes into a piece of round plastic conduit, along with lots of other wiring, re-emerging at the tank. The 'Optional Extra' 'PUMPE' wiring that's piggy-backed onto the AES control board supply is simply routed directly to the unit in question.

 

Will

[747]

My current van has all of the Alde extras that your 748 has and I have just had a look through the fridge paperwork. Mine has the Reich ebox control system, so cannot help on the EBL side.

 

What I have noticed is that the permanent 12 volt supply to the fridge should be accessible by removing the lower external fridge vent. If, as Robinhood suggests, the wiring has been piggybacked, this could be a likely place for a lazy electrician to do it. It's easy and out of sight. 8-)

 

Another option is to remove the 2A fuse and fit a test meter (set to DC amps in the 20A range). Try operating the fridge and pump and you should get a readout of the actual amps being used. You never know, it might be just a trifle more than the 2A fuse can handle and a slightly larger fuse may be sufficient.

 

My similar circulating pump is rated at 14 watts, or slightly more than 1A.

[Willum]

Thanks all. I'll try the various suggestions as soon as.................... I can. A roof to tile may get in the way :'(

Here, as promised, is a link the the Schaudt Electrobloc EBL220-2.

 

http://www.acpasion.net/foro/archivosadjuntos/obelix/manuales/Schaudt_Electroblock_EBL220-2_Ingles.pdf

 

Hope it works OK for everybody. If not, pm me and I'll send a PDF

 

Will

[Willum]

Rats!!

It looks like the pump is stuffed!!

Got to the acid test and the pump alone instantly blew a 5 amp fuse. Ho hum

Thank heaven it's still under warranty.

As for the clot that cut the wire adjacent to the pump............. I really should have made him reconnect it. It took me more sense of humour testing than a man of my age should have to undergo.:-S

Will

[Robinhood]

...that's the download I have here.

 

Given your findings, I would be pretty sure that the factory have decided to use a "convenient" always-on outlet for the Alde pump, and uprated the fuse.

 

Without looking at the interior, it is difficult to know what provision is made inside the Electrobloc, but I agree the block diagram looks like a common busbar, with specifically identified and fused outlet points. If this is the case, then upping from 2A to 5A at the fuse shouldn't be any great problem (wiring permitting).

 

Of course, if you ask Schaudt, and they advise against it, then you have a further problem ( ;-) ); do you ignore them and go ahead, or do you try to identify another (spare) always-on connection and move the pump connection to that (fusing accordingly).

 

Power circuits 4 or 5 are the obvious choices if they are not already in use, and Mate-n-lock spare pins aren't difficult to source (though a crimp tool is also a good idea).

 

 

 

[Willum]

Ta Robinhood. I think I'll investigate the repair first, though. :'(

Will

[Brian Kirby]

Well, at least you now know why the fuse blew, so it's not all bad news. You might have switched that pump on after a cold night out in the wilds somewhere, and then found you'd inexplicably lost your fridge as well. Whatever the reason it failed, as you have a guarantee, it seems you won't even have to source the replacement, or muck about trying to fit it. Be nice to them, in a roundabout way they did you a favour! :-)

[Willum]

Point taken, Brian......... but it was the AES unit on the fridge that blew the fuse. The pump came afterwards. The bit that has made it most difficult to diagnose is the fact that they cut the wire adjacent to the pump, right in the front lefthand corner of the underfloor area. You can either (just) get your head in to look, or get one arm in to touch. Trying to re-attach the cable ends with one hand and by touch alone took me a long time.

Still, as you say, better to find out now, rather than with a fridge/freezer inexplicably full of spoiled food.

First up is a word with Mr Burstner to try and get a definitive on the wiring arrangement and the fuse rating.

Will

[Willum]

Thanks everybody for the help, advice and pictures. Excellent value.

I spoke to our local (40 miles away) Burstner agent today. The only reference he could get was by inspecting an Elegance they have on the forecourt. It's essentially the same vehicle but 'A' Class, instead of cab-over.

The auxiliary 'PUMPE' on that has its feed taken from the same circuit as the rest of the Alde heating system, ie a 10 amp circuit. He couldn't ex[lain why mine should be factory fitted the way it is and was a bit concerned that there may be a danger of an overload to part of the EBL 220. The plot thickens!

I'll post any update I get, 'cos I guess this isn't quite over yet :-S

Will

ps we had a discussion about how difficult it was to gain access to the pump, whereupon he did (jokingly) say "when you come to book it in for the pump to be replaced, can you choose a time when I'm on holiday" :-D

[Brian Kirby]

You could try contacting Burstner UK, and asking for a chap named Ian Knowles. I wouldn't expect him to be able to answer off the top of his head, but he should be able to find out from the factory.

 

You'll need to quote the build number of your van. Can't remember the Burstner term for it, but it will be on the Burstner plate. From memory this, and not the VIN, is the key to getting the info from their system. If he's still there (was a few years back when we last had contact) I'm sure he will find out what he can.

[Brian Kirby]

It is the Type Serial Number that they'll probably ask for. On our 2005 T585 it was identifiable as the number beginning WBU, followed by 14 digits. It was immediately above the weight data on the Burstner plate, which was a stick-on plate on the side of the van, just forward of the habitation door. Hope this helps.

[Willum]

Brian Kirby - 2015-08-11 12:42 AM

 

You could try contacting Burstner UK, and asking for a chap named Ian Knowles. I wouldn't expect him to be able to answer off the top of his head, but he should be able to find out from the factory.

 

You'll need to quote the build number of your van. Can't remember the Burstner term for it, but it will be on the Burstner plate. From memory this, and not the VIN, is the key to getting the info from their system. If he's still there (was a few years back when we last had contact) I'm sure he will find out what he can.

 

Thanks, Brian. I've a feeling that's who I spoke to. He took the 'WBU" as a reference.

Will

[Brian Kirby]

747Heavy - 2015-08-11 6:09 PM

 

Brian Kirby - 2015-08-11 12:42 AM

 

You could try contacting Burstner UK, and asking for a chap named Ian Knowles. I wouldn't expect him to be able to answer off the top of his head, but he should be able to find out from the factory.

 

You'll need to quote the build number of your van. Can't remember the Burstner term for it, but it will be on the Burstner plate. From memory this, and not the VIN, is the key to getting the info from their system. If he's still there (was a few years back when we last had contact) I'm sure he will find out what he can.

 

Thanks, Brian. I've a feeling that's who I spoke to. He took the 'WBU" as a reference.

Will

May not be quick, as I think the factory is probably now on holiday shut-down, so may also have reduced back-room staff as well.

[Willum]

Brian Kirby - 2015-08-11 12:42 AM

 

 

May not be quick, as I think the factory is probably now on holiday shut-down, so may also have reduced back-room staff as well.

 

It's OK. We're not expecting snow storms just yet (lol) (lol)

Will

[aandncaravan]

Just opened up an EBL 220-2. The 2A fuse third from right on the top marked KS-Steuerung has a very narrow track supplying power to the output. As a guide the track is at least 1/3rd the size of the 5A fuse next to it. I am surprised it has not burnt out with 3amps? The Fridge control module should only draw about 0.25A

Seems a really strange point for a Pump take-off? Pin 7 BL6 would be more logical for a pump that can probably pull 6amps on 'sticky' start up after being inactive for some time. BL6 is the block Schaudt allocated for 'Heating/Pump/Reserve'?

My suggestion would be to take the pump cable off from where is. Fit an inline fuse holder with a 5 amp fuse and then touch it onto the Solar socket BL5 pin 3 having first down graded the Solar fuse to a10A for safety. This is a permanent live so your pump should run.

If the 5A blows try a 7 right up to 10A, but no higher.

Many Water pumps stick when not used for a while (hence advice to run your House Central Heating now and again through the Summer) so once it starts and frees up it will hopefully only draw 2 amps max thereafter. But I would not run it from where it was wired the track really is narrow.

We can supply pins for BL6 if you want to wire it into one of those?

Email us direct or via the website.

 

[Willum]

Excellent. Thanks for that and many thanks for going to all the trouble of pulling one apart to look. Regardless of anyone's responses (Burstner/Schaudt/Alde), there is no substitute for a visual confirmation, especially if it shows what's probably a lack of physical capacity like that.

I've had a further discussion with Camper UK (Burstner UK, as far as I'm aware) and his crosscheck against a similar era Elegance (A class but same chassis/internals, different style) shows that Burstner used the 10 amp 'Heitzung' fuse, 5th from the right, top row in Robinhood's picture above, for the power supply on that model.

I'm quite happy it's a Burstner original fit. The wiring/location are almost impossible to achieve after construction.

On the face of it, 0.25 amps for the AES, plus 1.2 amps for the 'PUMPE' (taken from Alde's web site, part no 2755.000) would be feasible on that circuit. The trouble will come if, as you say, it turns sticky and draws 5, or 6 amps, maybe more. I know the 5 amp fuse that was in there will protect it but it's not good practice.

Perhaps someone just didn't think that one through.

Will