bikey Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Hi all, Anyone fitted a internal handle on the sliding door of a pvc to assist with the closing rather than the slamming shut, I know it makes a racket and can annoy others parked close by. Just a handle not electric soft close or any other expensive methods. Thanks Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david lloyd Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Hi Bikey I haven't but it is something I would like to do so will also be interested in hearing any suggestions. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike88 Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 A longer handle would also be useful as these doors are darn difficult to open from the inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leake Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Mike88 - 2015-11-16 3:04 PM A longer handle would also be useful as these doors are darn difficult to open from the inside. The trick is to push outwards as well as back then it opens just as easily as from outside where you tend to pull outwards as well as backwards. Even my wife can do it despite having problems with her hands. I close ours from inside by slamming it shut using the rubber block. From outside it shuts real easy by pulling it forwards and pressing in at the same time. Given this fitting an additional handle that would enable one to pull the door forwards at the same time as pulling it inward should work a treat. I'll a look at ours and give it a go if I can find a suitable good looking handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gram Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 My van has a substantial handle at the inside leading edge of the sliding door. This greatly assists in closing the door from the inside, but I do find it much easier with the window open. Another handle towards the rear of the door would improve matters significantly. G http://i68.servimg.com/u/f68/18/28/36/11/th/img_8010.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don636 Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I very much doubt it is possible to shut the door without slamming it to a certain extent, even with an additional handle. Not quite sure you need this as, like Colin, I just grab hold of the rubber block and have never had a problem. My wife on the other hand just can't open or close the door from inside and I think it is just a lack of strength to grip the block. In her case I could see how a handle would help but why bother when you have a strong man to do it for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikey Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 Hi Gram Yes I completely agree, I have looked at the problem for sometime and my thoughts are that the best way to shut the door from the inside is to have a pull handle attached to the rear of the door to pull it shut not at the leading edge by the rubber block, as you say the other option and the one I have been using for some time is to open the window and pull the door shut but I do want to fit a handle as a permanent solution Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayjsj Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I must admit that one of the things holding me back from getting a PVC is the slamming side door problem. I tried the side door on a VW T5 con version recently and it closed very quietly and firmly electrically by itself. My missus was very impressed, is this avaliable on Sevel conversions as an option? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don636 Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Yes, I believe you can get either full electric operation (too slow I think) or soft close where an electric motor pulls the door closed that last bit to avoid slamming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 Don636 - 2015-11-16 9:48 PM ........ or soft close where an electric motor pulls the door closed that last bit to avoid slamming. AFAIK, at the moment exclusively on models from the Pössl/Globecar stable. A few people appear to have had some problems with these but mine, so far, is working exactly as it should, and it does make a significant difference to the ease (and quietness) of door closing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldi Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 Good morning, It might be a point to check if there is sufficient noise deadening in the door as this can vary from one converter to another. norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
witzend Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I've found leaving a window open makes it a lot easier to close the door. Even the sky light unlocked but closed it raises to allow air out handy when leaving the van Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogermash Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 An article on this appeared in interchange: October 2013. It was the top tip. This involves fitting a pull handle on the rear inside of the door by using a tool called a WURTH rivet setter. This is like a normal riveter but uses rivets that form a nut when compressed. I sent for one on amazon ( app 25 pounds). My van is a Adria Twin x250 2007. We drilled the abs on the side of the door and found it was hollow behind! We fitted the nuts into this and bolted the handle on. It works very well and has not come loose yet, two years down the line. The author used grab handles from a scrap car, but these would not fit my van. An angled chrome pull from my local DIY store sorted it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jocie Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Thanks Rogermash. This post of yours has solved the same problem I have had, and I now know what to buy !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 In my PVC the original internal sliding door handle was difficult to use from the inside. My solution was to make a finger grip handle from beech obtained from a discarded chair. The new handle was shaped to fit the curve of the door frame and recessed at the back to clear two 6mm rivnuts. For fixing I used two recessed 6mm cap screws, but countersunk machine screws are an alternative. I set the rivnuts using a long (50mm?) high tensile set bolt a 6mm nut (HT) a 6mm washer and an 8mm nut as a spacer. I also needed two 10mm and one 13mm spanners. To set the rivnut, first run the 6mm nut onto the bolt, follow with the lubricated washer, 8mm nut and finally the rivnut, flanged end first. Insert the rivnut into a suitable sized hole, prevent the 8mm nut and the bolt from turning, while screwing the 6mm nut back down the bolt. This will squeeze the rivnut towards you and set it behind the panel. It is possible to do this with only two hands, bur a practice with a spare nut is recommended. I have used this method with suitable nuts and bolts to set 8mm aluminium alloy rivnuts. It takes some force to compress the rivnut, and the torque rises sharply when the nut is set. I do not claim originality, having copied the technique from instructions issued by Land Rover many years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tea Cup Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 What does help with closing sliding doors is to use silicone spray on the runners and wheels, you have to be sure that you are spraying the running surface, usually means holding the can upside down and pointing upwards for the upper track. The first time you do it, absolutely soak the runners and wheels, which has a washing effect. You will find that dirty liquid runs down the van sides for a few hours, but this is easily wiped off. You'll be amazed how easy and quietly it closes (hopefully!). The other benefit is that the door slides so easily, you can use it as a simple if crude fore and aft van levelling indicator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Rather than use a ‘wet’ silicone spray, it might be preferable to choose a dry PTFE aerosol product. For example http://wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tea Cup Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Derek Uzzell - 2015-12-01 1:22 PMRather than use a ‘wet’ silicone spray, it might be preferable to choose a dry PTFE aerosol product. For examplehttp://wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/ Useful info. I will certainly give it a go! However the reviews say that it is not dry, but is in fact rather wet. I have no knowledge of the product either way. The wash effect of the silicone spray is useful, though. It gets rid of a lot of rust and muck. Useful for an older van like mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggyd Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 We close ours by pulling the rubber block, my hubby hasn't quite go the knack and I blame that on him trying to do it quietly (lol) I would rather give it one good pull to get it shut! at least its just one thud rather than two or three as he does!! its funny really as he makes two of me (lol) but I nearly always have to do it when shutting it at night and alarming it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Tea Cup - 2015-12-01 10:51 AMWhat does help with closing sliding doors is to use silicone spray on the runners and wheels, you have to be sure that you are spraying the running surface, usually means holding the can upside down and pointing upwards for the upper track. The first time you do it, absolutely soak the runners and wheels, which has a washing effect. You will find that dirty liquid runs down the van sides for a few hours, but this is easily wiped off. You'll be amazed how easy and quietly it closes (hopefully!). The other benefit is that the door slides so easily, you can use it as a simple if crude fore and aft van levelling indicator.Based on my own experience a few years back, I MOST STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST USING SILICONE SPRAYS ON THE SLIDING DOOR ROLLERS AND TRACKS.I had used W**0 in this area, when after a trip the door jammed open. On investigating I found that the plastic (nylon?) tyre had come off the bottom support roller. I got the tyre back into position, but it promptly came off again.The cure was to replace the complete bottom roller assembly which cost nearly £170 for the part. I removed as much residual spray as possible from the tracks.It is my belief that the spray had caused the roller tyre to stretch and loosen on the ball bearing roller.I was lucky that the failure occurred at home and that the vehicle is garaged, otherwise I would have had a problem.After fitting the new roller assembly I adjusted the sockets for the conical bolts so that all lined up at the closure position.The door still rolls freely enough to benefit from a stopping device to hold it part open when parked on a gradient, and the tyre has not come off again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tea Cup Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Alanb - 2015-12-01 10:10 PMTea Cup - 2015-12-01 10:51 AMWhat does help with closing sliding doors is to use silicone spray on the runners and wheels, you have to be sure that you are spraying the running surface, usually means holding the can upside down and pointing upwards for the upper track. The first time you do it, absolutely soak the runners and wheels, which has a washing effect. You will find that dirty liquid runs down the van sides for a few hours, but this is easily wiped off. You'll be amazed how easy and quietly it closes (hopefully!). The other benefit is that the door slides so easily, you can use it as a simple if crude fore and aft van levelling indicator. Based on my own experience a few years back, I MOST STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST USING SILICONE SPRAYS ON THE SLIDING DOOR ROLLERS AND TRACKS.I had used W**0 in this area, when after a trip the door jammed open. On investigating I found that the plastic (nylon?) tyre had come off the bottom support roller. I got the tyre back into position, but it promptly came off again.The cure was to replace the complete bottom roller assembly which cost nearly £170 for the part. I removed as much residual spray as possible from the tracks.It is my belief that the spray had caused the roller tyre to stretch and loosen on the ball bearing roller.I was lucky that the failure occurred at home and that the vehicle is garaged, otherwise I would have had a problem.After fitting the new roller assembly I adjusted the sockets for the conical bolts so that all lined up at the closure position.The door still rolls freely enough to benefit from a stopping device to hold it part open when parked on a gradient, and the tyre has not come off again!Again, this is useful to know. I will say that I have had no such a problem, and I had thought silicone is generally considered safe for rubber, compared to a petrol or paraffin based spray lubricants. But it sounds not so. Perhaps the answer is the dry PTFE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leake Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 I found the rubber seal had a tendency to stick to the door. Cleaned the rubber off the paint inside the door using car polish then dusted the rubber seal off with talcum powder. Now opens and closes much better. Even the wife can do it now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Alanb - 2015-12-01 10:10 PM Based on my own experience a few years back, I MOST STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST USING SILICONE SPRAYS ON THE SLIDING DOOR ROLLERS AND TRACKS. I had used W**0 in this area, when after a trip the door jammed open. On investigating I found that the plastic (nylon?) tyre had come off the bottom support roller. I got the tyre back into position, but it promptly came off again. What you are describing are two different products, WD40/Duck oil are mineral oil based, they are usualy not a good thing to use on plastics, they also tend to dry out and gum up and attract dirt and grit . Silicone sprays are usualy better to use on plastics and rubbers depending on what is mixed in with them, but can ruin metal to metal contacts, PTFE sprays are in my experiance silicone with a bit of PTFE in suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leake Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I can't see anyone being worried by the sound of our sliding door slamming. At least it means I've packed up me bagpipes up for the evening and taken our barking dog inside! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanb Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Thanks Colin, I stand corrected. After having to replace the bottom roller assembly, and inspecting the faulty unit, I came to the conclusion that my attempt at lubrication had been a useless, and costly exercise. The rollers are sealed ball bearings, so external lubrication is pointless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.