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Auto trail habitation door not central locking


pyrie

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The central locking is not working for the hab door. I have to lock it from the inside and exit via the cab. Cab central locking works OK.

 

Is there a fuse to locate for the hab door? Or is it a wiring problem?

 

AT Cheyenne 696 2008.

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clean the 2 contacts on the door bottom right, if not work take off the door panel the push connector to the prongs can come off, also put your knee into the bottom right corner when leaving the van and locking, when inside pull door towards you to try making better contact,

Jonathan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for late responding, been made redundant :-(

 

Er? The wiring looks like it enters the door via a rubber plug - is this the connector?

 

Also isn't the inner panel sealed to the door thus does it require specialist removal?

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Sorry for late responding, been made redundant :-(

 

Er? The wiring looks like it enters the door via a rubber plug - is this the connector?

 

Also isn't the inner panel sealed to the door thus does it require specialist removal?

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Bit unfortunately to be made redundant on a Sunday - just remember, they only let go the most expensive and experienced staff first, if that's any consolation. It's what they call modern business practice !!!!

 

On my hab door the inner plastic surround is held in place by the rubber door seal. If your hab door has electrical contacts between door and surround, I would investigate those first.

 

The earlier system was hard wired between surround and door and this was prone to fracture the wires contained in the supply cable.

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Having some time on my hands, I finally got down to investigating the door problem. The rubber conduit between the door and the van is only 2/3 length (door side), the rest is duct tape (previous owner). I removed all the duct tape, and discovered 2 issues :

 

1: There must have already been a previous break as there was a connecting block on the yellow with brown wire.

2. However this wire had broken at the spade terminal.

 

I've ordered a new conduit and I need to get a new spade connector.

 

Can someone advise whether these wires have a special wattage/amp if I was to buy new from a hardware store.

 

I'm wondering whether to move the connecting block into the door to help reduce future wear and tear - i.e. rather than the block being in the conduit.

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Hi Brian,

 

Don't bother trying a hardware store, go to a decent auto accessories shop. Take a snipping of the existing wire with you if you can and ask what they have.

 

How many wires are between the body and door? I have used 7 core trailer wire to repair tailgate wiring on cars in the past with good success as it has a very good outer covering to help prevent further breaks.

 

And I am in total agreement with moving the connection into the door, manufacturers place them in between door and body as it is easier to plug together during assembly without caring about long term durability.

 

Keith.

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