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10amp or 6amp hook-up help


Violet1956

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Colin's question is relevant, but:

 

...multiply the amps by 230 (the nominal voltage pan-Europe) and that will give you the wattage you can run off the connection.

 

So, 6 amps would be 6*230 = 1380 watts - sufficient to run your fridge, charger and some low-wattage items (maybe a TV), but marginal for also switching on a low-wattage (say 900W) kettle (or a Truma Combi on the lowest 900W electrical setting).

 

10 amps would give 2300 watts, which should cope with medium demand (like using all the above with a kettle or the Truma - and the latter would just about be safe on setting 2 with fridge and charger).

 

One thing I tend to check at campsites is whether the connection is protected by an accessible MCB (not locked away in a box, or, as has been the case in the past, via a re-wireable fuse of the requested amperage). If the trip is accessible, I don't worry too much about going to the margin with my demand, since the supply should be resettable (after reducing the load) if it trips.

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Violet1956 - 2016-03-04 12:32 PM

 

When trying to book a pitch on a French campsite I am being asked whether I require a 10amp or 6amp hook-up. Don't know what to answer! Any ideas gratefully received :$

 

When there’s been the option on French campsites to pay for hook-ups with different amperages the usual arrangement seems to have been for all the 230V service-pedestals to have the potential to supply the higher amperage. When a camper chooses to go for the lower amperage option, a lower amperage circuit-breaker is just locked on to the service-pedestal externally or inserted inside the pedestal.

 

As you are going to France this month and your plans seem to involve heading for the snows I strongly suggest you specify the 10 amps option rather than the 6 amps one. The difference in price should not be enormous and you are only going to be abroad for a fortnight. Think clean underwear - it’s better to have too much than too little.

 

(You do seem to worry a lot... ;-) )

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Robinhood - 2016-03-04 1:03 PM

 

Colin's question is relevant, but:

 

...multiply the amps by 230 (the nominal voltage pan-Europe) and that will give you the wattage you can run off the connection.

 

So, 6 amps would be 6*230 = 1380 watts - sufficient to run your fridge, charger and some low-wattage items (maybe a TV), but marginal for also switching on a low-wattage (say 900W) kettle (or a Truma Combi on the lowest 900W electrical setting).

 

10 amps would give 2300 watts, which should cope with medium demand (like using all the above with a kettle or the Truma - and the latter would just about be safe on setting 2 with fridge and charger).

 

One thing I tend to check at campsites is whether the connection is protected by an accessible MCB (not locked away in a box, or, as has been the case in the past, via a re-wireable fuse of the requested amperage). If the trip is accessible, I don't worry too much about going to the margin with my demand, since the supply should be resettable (after reducing the load) if it trips.

 

Très utile. Je suis très reconnaissant (practising some French with the assistance of Google translate I am ashamed to admit)

 

10 amps it is then. I will be using the kettle and plugging in laptops etc and will do anything to save on gas given my fixation about running out. :-)

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Obviously the campsite will charge you more for a 10amp connection.

 

So, instead of using Truma electric heating or electric kettle, it may be more economical to use gas.

 

When on a 6amp supply we just power the fridge, battery charger and occasionally a 700watt oil filled electric heater - total power consumption about 5amps. Beware, a hairdryer (1200watt) will take 5amps !!!

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Violet1956 - 2016-03-04 1:39 PM

 

Derek I worry so much it's a wonder I cross the road! Thanks for the tips. My OH is so laid back about everything that I worry for both of us and " drive him up the wall".

 

 

Have you (double, triple?) checked whether or not the campsite will allow your online grocery shopping delivery van on site (lol) (lol)

 

 

... ;-)

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pepe63 - 2016-03-04 2:02 PM

 

Violet1956 - 2016-03-04 1:39 PM

 

Derek I worry so much it's a wonder I cross the road! Thanks for the tips. My OH is so laid back about everything that I worry for both of us and " drive him up the wall".

 

 

Have you (double, triple?) checked whether or not the campsite will allow your online grocery shopping delivery van on site (lol) (lol)

 

 

... ;-)

Damn! I knew there was something else. (lol)
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The sites I've visited abroad have always seemed very possessive about access to the circuit breakers, so if you trip yours out of office hours, you are without power until they re-open unless there is a spare socket on the post you can switch to.

 

I remember one French site where all sockets were kept switched off if not in use and the attendant had to cycle to your pitch once you were settled and plugged in to open the cabinet and switch your individual socket on!

 

But on a brighter note a site we use regularly has a mixture of 6 and 10 amp sockets, all charged at the same rate; what you get depends purely on which pitch you've chosen!

 

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Violet1956 - 2016-03-04 1:33 PM...............10 amps it is then. I will be using the kettle and plugging in laptops etc and will do anything to save on gas given my fixation about running out. :-)

Good scheme! Do check the wattage of the kettle before making assumptions. The usual domestic variety are way too high. You'll need to get a low wattage one if you don't already have one.

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I suggest that you should probably assume the power supply is 220V rather than the nominal 230V.

You should therefore keep the current a bit lower to avoid tripping the CB.

On a hot day this will occur at a lower current than on a cold day.

Also, in some French camp site the power sockets are not the usual CEE17 sockets found on most UK sites, take an adapter with you.

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Robinhood - 2016-03-04 1:03 PM

 

 

One thing I tend to check at campsites is whether the connection is protected by an accessible MCB (not locked away in a box, or, as has been the case in the past, via a re-wireable fuse of the requested amperage). If the trip is accessible, I don't worry too much about going to the margin with my demand, since the supply should be resettable (after reducing the load) if it trips.

 

 

Good idea.

From my experience it's a good idea to make sure you can reset the trip yourself ( without calling out the site staff ) before you switch on a kettle and a microwave at the same time.

 

;-)

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Don't assume that the voltage will be 230V all the time. We've been on many sites where's there have been many seasonal pitches and the voltage can fluctuate depending on demand. The worst we've seen is 208V :'(

 

Here's what we use to calculate loads - the power factor is normally "1" but we've seen as low as "0.8"

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Amp_to_Watt_Calculator.htm

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