Fiat Ducato Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Which Sealant would be best for using to reseal and bed down, the aluminium corner extrusion that goes around the entire perimeter of my roof, sits on top of a rubber gasket and is screwed down and the goove then covered with pvc herzim strip? I am removing it all after water ingress damage, and after inspection the screws are all completely rusty, and the herzim strip is so brittle that it is impossible to remove any larger bits then a couple of cm's as it keeps breaking off. I have spent a small fortune on several different types and now confused which one to use initially I was going to use a product which I have used called: http://www.everbuild.co.uk/145-butyl-sealant It's a rubber based butyl non setting sealant. Then I thought I would use Hodgson Seamseal CV, but read you cannot use it with rubber gaskets, which is no good as the aluminium extrusion sits on a rubber gasket. Bought several rolls of W4 butyl mastic tape, 3 different sizes, then read that this can dry out and cause leaks at a later date. Also bought 4 tubes of Sikaflex 512 and 2 tubes of Sikaflex 221 but not sure if these are good as they are permanent and if for any reason the extrusion will need removing, will cause problems. Decisions, Derisions!! I am sure I am going to get mixed opinions and views in this post on which is best and which to use. Probably confuse my even more. Been trying to research on the net to see which is widely used by Coach building motorhome companies in their construction but problem is most use completely different building techniques now then they did back in 1997, and use GRP with a SoLiD design fully bonded with no external joins or screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancepar Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 For a sealant/adhesive the building and motor trades prefer a polyurethane product like Sikaflex like you have or Tiger which is a lot cheaper. I know you don't want to use Caravan mastic sealing strip but this maybe your only option if you want to remove the trim again, it does last a good time. I've been trying a penetrating fluid formula from the interweb, you might have the components already. A 50/50 mix of ATF (power steering fluid etc) and Acetone in an old atomiser/pump bottle, they wont mix, so shake vigorously before applying, best on metallic materials. Removing corroded trim fixings is a pain and destroying the trim to expose some of the fixing sometimes is usually the end result. HTH B-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Collings Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Acetone will soften solvent based paints but its ok on baked finishes like most modern cars. Try a trial on an area that will not show, Put drop on a rag that is a different colour from the surface and give it a quick rub. Any surface colour on the rag shows that acetone is a solvent for that finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Drew Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Plain old diesel is a good penetrating oil just do not use to much and use it any where where the smell might be a issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Fiat Ducato You are looking for an optimum black-or-white answer to questions that really don’t have one. This link http://www.1carpc.co.uk/wcdr/front-body-to-roof---rail-reseal.-plus-lower-front-awning-rails---reseal.htm describes the type of edge-joint resealing task you are faced with. It discusses removing the rail’s fixing screws by drilling the heads off or slotting the heads with a Dremel tool. It’s near certain that your motorhome’s screws have corroded into the wood structure. It would be worth trying AFC50 as you’ve got some, but I’m doubtful that any sort of penetrating fluid will perform miracles in this instance. Me, I’d attempt to remove as many of the screws as possible using the methods you’ve already tried and (for the rest) I’d drill small holes around each screw’s head and then carefully lever the rail upwards. This is low-level butchery, but if getting the rail off is unavoidable, you’ll obviously need to do something about the fixing screws. Once the rail is off you can drill new screw-holes in it. Sealant-wise I’d opt for Sikalastomer 710 http://www.bag-distribution.fr/bag/upload//site/default/FT/Anglais/Sika%20Industrie/Sikalastomer%20710.pdf http://leisurelines.net/sikalastomer-710--butyl-sealant--white--1480-p.asp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baden87 Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Soudal fix all its the dogs dogs doodahs Used by manufacturers and dealers I believe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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