Boxer x250 3.0HDI - Black Smoke

[the_biochemist]

Hi

 

just started investigating an increasing amount of black smoke on acceleration from my boxer (BOXER 3 EXTENDED VAN H2 TYPE 20H 3.0 HDI 160 Manual gearbox 6) and have look across all of the intercooler piping for leaks and have come up with a few questions...

 

1) I thought that the pipes to and from the intercooler were almost semi rigid - in as much as you could compress them but not to the extent that they closed up and certainly not expanding their diameter

 

2) looking at the diagrams on the peugeot service site the 'front face crossmember' (the black structure across the front of the van under the bonnet with two rounded rectangle openings in the front of it) is where the air intake is?? but mine seems to be actively blowing out air - enough for me to have noticed when i moved my hand past it?

 

Are these two things normal - as I haven't seemed to find any other air leaks from the intecooler union pipes to suggest it is losing its boost pressure (although one does have some level of chaffing).

 

if so I suppose I will need to look at the EGR valve?

 

Thanks for any advice in advance.

[euroserv]

Hello,

 

Black smoke is normally caused by either a blocked air filter or by a leak in the turbo pipe system; most commonly a leak from the actual intercooler. While this smoke is being generated there will be a significant increase in the amount of oil vapour or actual oil in these pipes as well, and this increases the amount of black smoke..etc etc.

 

The rubber pipes should be fairly easy to squash when the engine is not running and should be tight when the engine is revved up to about 1500 rpm. They will be somewhat expanded by 2000 rpm but this is difficult to simulate with the bonnet open as the engine is not under load.

 

Collapsed pipes are a symptom of excessive oil (softening the rubber) and of a restricted air flow.

 

First you must check the air filter housing and the filter itself followed by removing the pies from the intercooler and looking for black marks (escaping oil) on both sides. If the cause is found and repaired, you need to remove and clean all of the turbo pipes before testing the engine. Some that have softened excessively may have to be replaced.

 

If you have collapsed turbo pipes and cannot quickly find a cause, the vehicle should not be driven but needs to be looked at by a competent mechanic. You can do a lot of harm by running an engine that is starved of air and/or has a lot of oil in the pipework. The next thing to give up may well be the turbo, and that can be an alarming thing and expensive too!