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Ullapool-Laxford Bridge-Thurso to Wick mid Sept


snowie

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Hi all,

We haven't visited The Highlands, so plan a 3-4 week trip in mid Sept.

We plan to go west to east, and will probably skip John'o'Groats.

Our van is a 6m panelvan. Are there any roads to avoid, and must see beaches and harbours?

Regards

Alan b

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Alan, your described itinerary starts at Ullapool, but the West coast South of there is also well worth a visit as it is less "desolate" than the far North West (and probably do-able with your 3-4 weeks). I can add some tips if you intend to do a bit of that. (Don't get me wrong, I like the far NW, but it can be a bit "sparse").

 

Above Ullapool, however (the campsite in Ullapool is quite acceptable for a brief stay), head out to the coast at Achiltibuie, and then try the campsite at Altandhu (which is a little gem). Easy single track road from Drumrunie with stunning views.

 

The coast road North from here (Achnahaird to Lochinver) is the only single-track one I'd be mildly wary of, as it has a couple of pinch-points South of Inverkirkaig which are less than pleasant if someone is coming the other way, but it IS scenic, IS passable (in a 6m PVC at least - I wouldn't use it with a wider/longer coachbuilt as reversing might be iffy) and saves a lot of time in retracing steps back inland again to go further North.

 

Lochinver is worth a mooch (remember, there is nothing of any size here) as is the beach at Achmelvich, and the campsite at Clachtoll, further North, is on the beach and reasonable.

 

There's a lot of nothing North of here, (the single-track from Clachtoll North is fine) and the campsite at Scourie is OK. If you walk, after Rhihonich you might want to head to Kinlochbervie and then on to Blairmore to park and walk to Sandwood Bay (a good day out that you won't regret if the weather is good).

 

Durness is the next natural stop with Sango Sands campsite being OK, and a visit to Cape Wrath on the cards if the ferry/minibus is running, and a quick look at Smoo cave.

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As Robin points out a lot of nice places south of Ullapool that could be easlily fitted into that time scale.

I would say start around Kyle of Lochalsh.

Last time we where that far north we had no problem in our XLWB van, but I do worry the promotion of the NC500 route may have made it busier on the single track roads, but hopefully by mid Sept it will have quietened down.

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Alan

 

I would agree with the comments made about Altandhu although I think the campsite is south of Altandhu. The coast road from here to Lochinver is well worth it (there is a length/width restriction on it with fences at the north end to deter people from trying it with oversize vehicles. I would add that the road north of Lochinver via Drumbeg is worth it for the views (and ride).

 

I've done both of them twice already this year in a 6m PVC and it's down to how well you can reverse your van as the likelihood is the person coming the other way can't.

 

All of the roads 'up there' are possible in a 6m PVC. I've done 99% of them because the best views/beaches/harbours are at the end of them.

 

Dave

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Good camp sites at Brora on the east coast with the Highlands within easy reach. The CC site is next to a golf course through which you can get to a stunning beach.

 

The Strathnaver Valley is worth a peek with its basic CC site at Altnaharra being right next to the Loch and an hour or more from the local supermarket. Teeming with wildlife and a haven for walkers who understand the risks of being in the mountains.

 

We did Oban, Kinlochewe, Altnaharra and Culloden in May in our 6mx2.35m van and never came across anything that was impassable - we checked out the roads we expected to use on Google before we went.

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In a 6m PVC you should be perfectly capable of tackling the Drovers Road to Applecross (Bealach na Ba). On a nice day its a terrific trip and there is a campsite in Applecross (and a pub).

 

Check these links out

 

 

http://www.scotlandinfo.eu/applecross-bealach-na-ba-shieldaig/

 

I realise this is south of your starting point but you've got to get to Ullapool somehow anyway

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arthur49 - 2016-08-23 7:44 PM

 

I realise this is south of your starting point but you've got to get to Ullapool somehow anyway

 

Thanks Arthur, and Robin, Brock et al:

My query was largely to establish whether the effort to the north coast road would be worth it, so that's looking a bit unlikely at the moment. I realise this is very subjective, and we will probably do some zig-zagging.

 

We shall certainly start in Lincolnshire, so Kyle of Lochalsh is where we are heading for a start.

I'll post our route as it looks when we set off. To

Looking forward to some harbours and fish in particular,

Regards

Alan b

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TBH, if you haven't been up there before, start at Kyle and work your way round the coast. Things get wilder and more remote the more North you go, and if the weather is OK, you could get up to Durness in your timescale, and then set off back.

 

You can either cut the Kyle peninsula out, or go round, head for Applecross over the Bealach na Ba (mildly challenging but quite OK, and spectacular. Out on the coast road to Torridon (Aire equivalent at Shieldaig) and then Kinlochewe (CC site) through engaging scenery.

 

North along Loch Maree with sites at Gairloch (you might like the harbour at Charlestown) and Inverewe (C&CC) with wonderful sunsets (and the drive/cycle along S Loch Ewe to the Russian Convoy monument at the end is worthwhile).

 

A diversion South of Gairloch down the dead end through Badachro (good pub) to Redpoint is worth it for the views out over the Hebrides.

 

Then up and further round the coast road to Ullapool (and then the stuff mentioned above).

 

If the weather is good; there are few places finer, if the weather is bad.......

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Just got back from 4 wks trip , without doubt the 500 is being heavily promoted ( t shirts now ! ) , so more MH on those single tracks etc , without doubt do pass of the cattle( you got to be lucky with weather for the views cross to Skye ) and stay in apple cross, then onto shieldag ex route. Wildcamp no prob , do the south road by Loch Ness fort Augustus to Inverness , and stop at the creepy churchyard at bolskie ( home of alietser Crowley / Jimmy page ) . Again it's all to do with weather , wick in clear / sunshine magnificent but when grey / damp ? Check out the old grey stone buildings around the old harbour and the great days of the herring fleets , a hard life.
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snowie - 2016-08-22 10:44 PM

Are there any roads to avoid, and must see beaches and harbours?

 

Alan.....6m pvc is ideal for all roads in Scotland. Yours will go where bigger will struggle or have to avoid!!

 

For me the whole north west coast is brilliant and you won't be disappointed. Well worth a drive up to Durness which is the most north westerly point of UK and a visit to the Lighthouse is unique. It's inaccessible by road and visitors are taken along the track in a minibus. It's worth seeing as the lighthouse sits on Britains highest cliffs.....and it's managed to escape the safety obsessed! No barriers or fences.....just a sheer drop so anyone that goes over, won't be coming back!! There's also quite a good campsite nearby too.

 

Following the coastal road from west over to east, it's well worth dropping down the B871 just below Bettyhill. It's a single track road with passing places but one of UK's most remote areas. It's also steeped in quite horrible history as this was where wealthy landowners kicked out the crofters forcing them to settle at Bettyhill.

 

 

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Bulletguy - 2016-08-24 5:49 PM

 

Following the coastal road from west over to east, it's well worth dropping down the B871 just below Bettyhill. It's a single track road with passing places but one of UK's most remote areas. ......

 

 

............. with a reasonable chance of spotting a magnificent Golden Eagle

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arthur49 - 2016-08-24 7:46 PM

 

Bulletguy - 2016-08-24 5:49 PM

 

Following the coastal road from west over to east, it's well worth dropping down the B871 just below Bettyhill. It's a single track road with passing places but one of UK's most remote areas. ......

 

 

............. with a reasonable chance of spotting a magnificent Golden Eagle

 

A very good chance.

 

I've never driven such a remote road as the B871....http://oi65.tinypic.com/280jpmt.jpg Its so peaceful and quiet. I drove a few miles down and saw not one vehicle, so parked up in a passing place, stuck the kettle on for a brew, then sat there for an hour. Zero cars!!! It was like being on another planet!!

 

Here is a bit on the lighthouse at Cape Wrath (Durness). The cliffs are 274 metres high!

 

http://new.durness.org/?page_id=296

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  • 1 month later...

Thought I'd reply now that we've got back..............

 

My wife is just finalising the financial report on the trip! so I'll just provide some basic details.

 

We travelled up the west side, took a ferry to Mull, got back onto the mainland, over to Fort William; and then it all went rather elliptical, not quite pear-shaped.

Weather was pretty bad, wind and rain.

We made it up to Durness, zig-zagged about looking for decent weather, and thoroughly enjoyed the landscape from Durness down to Inverness, Arbroath and on to the East Neuk harbour villlages and the Forth Bridges.

We found a smashing Lebanese restaurant in Berwick upon Tweed, and ate some nice fishy dishes along the way.

The weather cut short our enjoyment of the west coast, and we didn't get to see Glen Coe.

All in all a good trip, spoiled by the weather. When the sky was blue it was beautiful, when grey it was still amazing, when wet and cold.......we were less comfortable.

We'll go back, in the car, for a short trip to the Kyle of Lochalsh and Skye.

 

Thanks to those who advised and suggested; glad we did it but maybe we should have turned south at Newark!!

regards

alan b

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Oh yes the weather , still Scotland retains its splendour even in bad weather , the windier the better gives the skylight a work out ! Did you get to wick , and see the old stone terraces houses where the herring fishermen lived , truly a hard life , but what a harbour with history . Glad you enjoyed the trip .
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snowie - 2016-10-11 6:09 PM

 

 

The weather cut short our enjoyment of the west coast, and we didn't get to see Glen Coe.

All in all a good trip, spoiled by the weather. When the sky was blue it was beautiful, when grey it was still amazing, when wet and cold.......we were less comfortable.

We'll go back, in the car, for a short trip to the Kyle of Lochalsh and Skye.

 

Thanks to those who advised and suggested; glad we did it but maybe we should have turned south at Newark!!

regards

alan b

 

 

Thanks for posting - interesting to see how you got on.

 

We've been there many times, and normally in late May - June - and usually had reasonable weather.

 

Maybe you should try a different time of year ?

 

 

;-)

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I'm sure earlier would have been better, but we were getting ready for Italy earlier in the year.

Not sure we'll be travelling quite as far afield next year, maybe Sweden and Norway again, but we'll see.

Dijon area has some appeal and I' m sure we can find some nice food close to the channel.

 

I've been wondering about Morocco before I'm 70, and that would need some planning!!

Cheers

Alan b

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