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i have a chieftain 2.8 jtd 2004 reg which started making black smoke . then i removed the injectors and got them tested, all ok , but still black smoke when heavy throttleing espically up hill, it was then taken to a comercial garage where it was put on the computer and told it was number 4 injector at fault , i told him that all had been tested and ok .next day i started to strip engine, but first i removed each electrical injector lead from 1/2/3 and engine stopped , but removed from number 4 it kept running very sluggishly . next i swapped number 3for 4 injector rebulit started ,and again removed elec plug 1/2/3/ engine stopped number 4 run sluggishly. so that proved it wasnt the injector .SO if a reader can help i think the only thing left is elec cable .could that be the problem thankyou
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Ok so in my case it wax a 2.0 HDi . But I have found the cure on more than one occasion was a diesel injector cleaner , redex or similar I since then use it twice a year regardless .


It worked also euro parts sell various liquids for the same use . Try it. Tip the whole bottle in and drive.

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It sounds very much like you have a wiring fault!


You will need to trace the wires back and look for damage or failing that find which pins they connect to on the ECU and check them with a meter.


Your best solution may to be to get new wiring to this injector overlayed on the harness.


Nick (Euroserv) will probably be best to answer.


And sorry but Diesel injector cleaner will not fix your broken wiring :-(



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You more than likely need to replace the plug connector to No 4 injector. These plugs are available on Ebay for a few pounds and should come with some cable already attached. You will need this, as it's a bit tight in there! It's a cut and solder job but not that difficult. Make sure you protect the joint with heat-shrink.



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  • 3 weeks later...

I am presuming you are running a diesel vehicle. I had a similar problem with my diesel volvo, Took it to a volvo dealer who happens to be one of my customers as I am involved in the garage industry which does help. Volvo kept going into limp mode obviously losing power.The technician took my vehicle out plus put it through a diagnostic check, His words were ' in my opinion you need a new turbo '

Two days later I was talking to one of my other garage customers and telling him what was happening, He looked at me and said supermarket fuel which was correct. He then went on to say ' Morrisons ' which was also correct. He then told me what to do.

With less than a quarter tank of fuel add Forte Diesel Treatment into the tank then take the vehicle up to 70 mph quickly then back off then back on again a few times. Get the turbo spinning on and off a few times. In other words get the engine really hot. Next fill up with two tanks of Shell V power.

This hopefully should sort your problem out.

Mine was sorted before I had used half a tank of decent fuel plus no more black smoke coming out when accelerating fast.

Supermarket fuel only just meets EU spec and does not carry the same additives as Shell BP Esso. Slightly dearer but you will get more MPG so that cancels out the extra you have just paid.

My customer will not even put supermarket fuel in his lawnmower, Says it all I think.

People think all fuel is the same which is correct but it is what happens when the big fuel companies treat it with their additives.

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That's all very interesting, and quite relevant to car engines but less so with commercials because the tolerances for emissions are less stringent...... anyway; the OP has already ruled out an injector fault and therefore fuel, leaving an electrical fault and on this particular engine it is almost always the connector plug. If it is not that, then he may have a compression problem. Best to check the cheap option first. No injector cleaner can fix an electrical fault!
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I would treat the m/home to a couple of tankfuls so of Shell Nitro and see if there is a difference


I run our m/home on SNitro, We tend to travel long distances when we use it, otherwise but the vehicle is standing around for long periods. Anything that helps the general performance from the tank to the final burn and exhaust gets my vote. Technically such a high grade fuel may not be of use in a commercial engine, anything that helps filters , seals and general running of the engine may be of benefit longer term.





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You are right not all Fuel is the same, but some Supermarket fuel is higher quality than some 'tied' forecourts.


Some years ago I bought a Mitsubishi GTO Japanese import that was designed for 98 octane that is the norm in Japan. The 'UK' version was called the Mitsubishi 3000GT and was detuned for UK 95 octane fuel.

There was noticeable detonation when running the GTO on Unleaded standard 95 octane fuel with a corresponding drop in power as the Knock Sensors altered the Ignition/fuelling to prevent damage.


After a lot of experimentation with additives and different manufacturers fuel, I found that Shell 99 octane made a huge difference. No additives necessary.

BP's 97 Super unleaded didn't cut it nor did the other 97 octane Super unleaded's from Esso, Texaco, Conoco, etc.


Then out came Tesco's 99 Super Unleaded fuel which I tried with exactly the same results as the Shell fuel.

As no other petroleum manufacturer makes a 99 Octane fuel other than Shell, I have always assumed this is where Tesco source it in from.


I later replaced the GTO with another Japanese only market car a Celica GT4. This car was 5 years old but was like new, only 19,000 miles. However, it had been given a number of Blitz tuning parts that brought the horsepower up from 265 to 320 (Standard UK Celica GT4 was detuned for 95 octane fuel @ 225bhp). But this tuning made it even more sensitive to fuel.

I bought it 'for a song' because it ran so poorly stuttering and popping under acceleration. I suspected the issue was the Electronics which I thought I would be able to sort out as I had on several other cars


But before I had a chance to do any diagnoses work the car started to improve on it's own. My first stop immediately after buying it, was Tescos, to fill up with 99 fuel and it just got better and better on my drive home.

By the end of half a tank of Tesco Supermarket 99 fuel it was running perfectly. Despite the high engine tune it drove like any other GT4, until you opened it up. The twin Turbo Mitsubishi GTO I had previously isn't slow, but the GT4 made it feel like it.

One of the best cars I have ever owned.


Once again normal Super unleaded 97, no matter if it was quality BP, Esso, etc gave all sorts of issues.


The only two that worked were Shell 99 Super and Tescos Super, both gave exactly the same results.


I have used Tesco 99 ever since, even when I had a Suzuki Swift 1.0 and in my current 16 year old Mitsubishi Galant Estate!!


So I think the more important thing is a quality fuel, not the forecourt.

A commercial vehicle runs for a lot more hours in a day, often at higher speeds than a Motorhome gently plodding along at 60 in 6th, so the higher heat in a Commercial keeps it's engine clean even on the budget fuels.


I would suggest that Motorhomes that don't cover fast Motorway runs on a regular basis might be better running the next grade up, whatever the forecourt, to help keep all those emissions sensors clean. At least during Winter months?

I think that Tesco/Asda 'Super' Diesel will perform as good as any Big Brand equivalent.


Agree with Nick that if it is 'running on three' most likely issue is a poor Injector electrical connection on the 2.8.



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