Outer Hebrides ferries

[Pipkim]

We are considering visiting the Outer Hebrides in June/July 2017 in our motorhome and have a few queries on the ferry crossings.

 

We would intend to use the Calmac Hopscotch 23 route. We presume that the Oban to Castlebay & Tarbet to Uig sections would need to be pre-booked but that the inter-island links would be “first come – first served” and pre-booking wouldn’t be a requirement. Is that correct? Anyone had any experience of using the ferries on this route.

Any recommended “must see” areas &/or wild camping spots?

 

PilgrimPhil

 

 

[Tracker]

I've used most of these ferries and never pre booked anything but that was a few years ago before we discovered almost wall to wall sunshine by heading South instead!

 

The best source of reliable up to date information that I found was CalMac themselves as things do change.

[rupert123]

Pipkim - 2016-12-05 8:47 AM

 

We are considering visiting the Outer Hebrides in June/July 2017 in our motorhome and have a few queries on the ferry crossings.

 

We would intend to use the Calmac Hopscotch 23 route. We presume that the Oban to Castlebay & Tarbet to Uig sections would need to be pre-booked but that the inter-island links would be “first come – first served” and pre-booking wouldn’t be a requirement. Is that correct? Anyone had any experience of using the ferries on this route.

Any recommended “must see” areas &/or wild camping spots?

 

PilgrimPhil

 

Two years ago even though we had a 'hopscotch ticket it was best to phone and prebook your place. As for must see places we found the Outer Hebrides a big disappointment. Probably worth a visit if you have already explored the west coast but no where as scenic with little in the way of towns or anything much of historic interest. Some decent coastal scenery but nothing as good as the Scottish coast from Skye to the north. Even the much vaunted wildlife was absent during our three week visit, a few seals and that was about it.

[colin]

i'm guessing you know when you will be starting and finishing your trip but are unsure as to how long you will be on each island?

As above CalMac will give you the definitive, and as also posted sometimes it's best to book, you may well find they will advise to book 24 or 48 hours in advance which will give you some flexibility.

[arthur49]

Pipkim - 2016-12-05 8:47 AM

 

We are considering visiting the Outer Hebrides in June/July 2017 in our motorhome and have a few queries on the ferry crossings.

 

We would intend to use the Calmac Hopscotch 23 route. We presume that the Oban to Castlebay & Tarbet to Uig sections would need to be pre-booked but that the inter-island links would be “first come – first served” and pre-booking wouldn’t be a requirement. Is that correct? Anyone had any experience of using the ferries on this route.

Any recommended “must see” areas &/or wild camping spots?

 

PilgrimPhil

 

 

Must sees

1. Barra airport - watch the 'Glasgow' plane land and take off on the beach

 

2. North Uist - Golden Eagle: a good chance to see one at 57.609571, -7.374264 on Committee Road. Sit there and wait. If its not too windy its a great wild camping spot .... and genuinely 'wild'

 

3. Harris - Luskentyre Beach - on a nice day its 'paradise'

Also on Harris to spend the night 57.995818, -7.090853 at Hushinish. There is, or was, a toilet here and a fresh water tap. Watch the gannets diving in the distance

 

4. Lewis - Callanish Standing Stones. Also the Blackhouses nearby.

 

If your interest is shops and shopping the Outer Hebrides are not for you. If you like to get away from it all, accept the sometimes poor weather, then its fantastic.

 

On wild camping, there are lots of places to pull over for the night. Just respect the locals and ask if in any doubt. Calmac terminals tend to have dump and fresh water facilities.

 

And please don't do what I heard one motorhomer boast about on the ferry. He arrived with all his provisions, fully fuelled and "spent £9 in a week"

 

The locals are generally very friendly, welcoming, and tend to wave. We smile and wave back. When I asked one local if we could stop overnight by the sea near his house he said "Of course. We have the view 365 days a year, you can have it tonight."

[mikejkay]

Been twice. First time I booked but the second time I just rolled up. I try to avoid the stress of having to get to a ferry on a specific date and at a specific time. Never had to wait and that applies to the Orkney and Shetlans ferries.

[Rayjsj]

rupert123 - 2016-12-05 10:57 AM

 

Pipkim - 2016-12-05 8:47 AM

 

We are considering visiting the Outer Hebrides in June/July 2017 in our motorhome and have a few queries on the ferry crossings.

 

We would intend to use the Calmac Hopscotch 23 route. We presume that the Oban to Castlebay & Tarbet to Uig sections would need to be pre-booked but that the inter-island links would be “first come – first served” and pre-booking wouldn’t be a requirement. Is that correct? Anyone had any experience of using the ferries on this route.

Any recommended “must see” areas &/or wild camping spots?

 

PilgrimPhil

 

Two years ago even though we had a 'hopscotch ticket it was best to phone and prebook your place. As for must see places we found the Outer Hebrides a big disappointment. Probably worth a visit if you have already explored the west coast but no where as scenic with little in the way of towns or anything much of historic interest. Some decent coastal scenery but nothing as good as the Scottish coast from Skye to the north. Even the much vaunted wildlife was absent during our three week visit, a few seals and that was about it.

 

Totally disagree with the above, the Western Isles are really lovely, and friendly, and as for wildlife....where else are you woken by Corncrakes just outside the motorhome door !! This on North Uist, plenty of places to wildcamp if you particularly fall in love with a spot, and yet a few sites dotted about to dump waste water and cassettes, and there is always the Calmac ferryports which all have fresh water taps and cassette dumping points(but you do have to search for them) so, ask. Wildlife seen..... a Snowy Owl on North Uist, several Golden Eagles, Short Eared Owls, lots of Lapwings. They are still common up there.

FERRIES, the only ferry we pre-booked was the Ferry from Oban to Barra, all the rest we phoned up 24 hours or 36 hours before moving, including our homeward ferry from Stornaway to Ullapool , remember though that the Island hopscotch tickets are only valid for 30 days (its hardly long enough IMO). Enjoy your trip ! And yes, we have travelled over All of the West of Scotland including Mull and Skye, havent yet done the Orkneys or Shetland...still to come.

Recommend Moorcroft Holidays on North Uist a really lovely site run by lovely island people. And we saw deer on that site. No wildlife indeed! Must have had their eyes closed.

[arthur49]

Rayjsj - 2016-12-06 11:49 AM

 

Totally disagree with the above, the Western Isles are really lovely, and friendly, and as for wildlife....where else are you woken by Corncrakes just outside the motorhome door !! This on North Uist, plenty of places to wildcamp if you particularly fall in love with a spot, and yet a few sites dotted about to dump waste water and cassettes, and there is always the Calmac ferryports which all have fresh water taps and cassette dumping points(but you do have to search for them) so, ask. Wildlife seen..... a Snowy Owl on North Uist, several Golden Eagles, Short Eared Owls, lots of Lapwings. They are still common up there.

FERRIES, the only ferry we pre-booked was the Ferry from Oban to Barra, all the rest we phoned up 24 hours or 36 hours before moving, including our homeward ferry from Stornaway to Ullapool , remember though that the Island hopscotch tickets are only valid for 30 days (its hardly long enough IMO). Enjoy your trip ! And yes, we have travelled over All of the West of Scotland including Mull and Skye, havent yet done the Orkneys or Shetland...still to come.

Recommend Moorcroft Holidays on North Uist a really lovely site run by lovely island people. And we saw deer on that site. No wildlife indeed! Must have had their eyes closed.

 

Re wildlife, earlier I did not mention the Hen Harriers on Committee Road, and otters ..... though the latter take patience and a bit of luck to spot. Try the east side of Benbecula for otters

 

Re history, visit a blackhouse and see how generations lived until recently. Check this link to get an idea http://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/accommodation/gearrannan-black-house-village-p518361

 

Flora McDonald's birthplace?

[rupert123]

Rayjsj - 2016-12-06 11:49 AM

 

rupert123 - 2016-12-05 10:57 AM

 

Pipkim - 2016-12-05 8:47 AM

 

We are considering visiting the Outer Hebrides in June/July 2017 in our motorhome and have a few queries on the ferry crossings.

 

We would intend to use the Calmac Hopscotch 23 route. We presume that the Oban to Castlebay & Tarbet to Uig sections would need to be pre-booked but that the inter-island links would be “first come – first served” and pre-booking wouldn’t be a requirement. Is that correct? Anyone had any experience of using the ferries on this route.

Any recommended “must see” areas &/or wild camping spots?

 

PilgrimPhil

 

Two years ago even though we had a 'hopscotch ticket it was best to phone and prebook your place. As for must see places we found the Outer Hebrides a big disappointment. Probably worth a visit if you have already explored the west coast but no where as scenic with little in the way of towns or anything much of historic interest. Some decent coastal scenery but nothing as good as the Scottish coast from Skye to the north. Even the much vaunted wildlife was absent during our three week visit, a few seals and that was about it.

 

Totally disagree with the above, the Western Isles are really lovely, and friendly, and as for wildlife....where else are you woken by Corncrakes just outside the motorhome door !! This on North Uist, plenty of places to wildcamp if you particularly fall in love with a spot, and yet a few sites dotted about to dump waste water and cassettes, and there is always the Calmac ferryports which all have fresh water taps and cassette dumping points(but you do have to search for them) so, ask. Wildlife seen..... a Snowy Owl on North Uist, several Golden Eagles, Short Eared Owls, lots of Lapwings. They are still common up there.

FERRIES, the only ferry we pre-booked was the Ferry from Oban to Barra, all the rest we phoned up 24 hours or 36 hours before moving, including our homeward ferry from Stornaway to Ullapool , remember though that the Island hopscotch tickets are only valid for 30 days (its hardly long enough IMO). Enjoy your trip ! And yes, we have travelled over All of the West of Scotland including Mull and Skye, havent yet done the Orkneys or Shetland...still to come.

Recommend Moorcroft Holidays on North Uist a really lovely site run by lovely island people. And we saw deer on that site. No wildlife indeed! Must have had their eyes closed.

Well I stick by what I said. So you saw a few birds, all of which you can see in Scotland without ferry rides, and in better scenery. You state you did not prebook ferries and then contradict yourself by saying you phoned 24/36 hours before, what the hell is that if not pre booking. Agree about Moorcroft campsite though, nice place.

[HymerVan]

You may already know this but because of Road equivalent Tariff pricing there is no advantage in buying a hopscotch ticket. It limits your flexibility and is only for a a single direction N>S or S>N and the cost is the sum of each leg. We went to the northern Isles from 24th June to 9th July this year Barra to Butt of Lewis i.e. more or less bottom to top and only pre-booked the outward leg Oban to Castlebay (Barra). We didn't book the other legs well in advance but there can be difficulties on the Berneray to Leverburgh crossing. This is for two reasons one because it is very tidal (and a crossing demonstrating considerable seamanship) and consequently crossings are often cancelled for technical reasons. Secondly the RET fares make a day trip from/to Harris affordable which gums up the ferry for local transport and "through" passengers. Consequently it is wise to book a day or two in advance. As mentioned the Calmac staff are excellent knowledgeable and friendly and you can get good advice from them and book by telephone if you dont have internet connection. Calmac also have a very good free app to update you as to the status of ferries.

The islands are fantastic if you want to experience a slower pace of life and there is much to see scenically and historically as well as fantastic flora and fauna. Experience it now before it is too late !!

[mikebeaches]

Wholeheartedly agree with the previous poster. We travelled on single tickets all the way from north to south through the Outer Hebrides; and to and from the mainland - well, out from Skye and back to Oban.

 

The Calmac staff were hugely helpful on the phone providing advance information about likely capacity. And in fact the only bookings we made were whilst waiting on the ramp for the next inter-island ferry. To travel from Skye, and return from Barra, we just walked into the respective offices when we were ready to go - no advance bookings.

 

So complete flexibility of route and timetable - the perfect way to travel in a MH!

[Pipkim]

Thanks for all the replies on this topic.

 

We have used the inter island ferries on Shetland and just turned up & were never refused passage. But there were basically on "turn around" so there were plenty of crossings each day.

I suppose it does depend on the ferry frequency for the Hebridian islands as to whether it is better the pre-book or take a chance.

 

On with the planning...............

 

PilgrimPhil

[Bulletguy]

arthur49 - 2016-12-05 11:41 AM

 

Pipkim - 2016-12-05 8:47 AM

 

We are considering visiting the Outer Hebrides in June/July 2017 in our motorhome and have a few queries on the ferry crossings.

 

We would intend to use the Calmac Hopscotch 23 route. We presume that the Oban to Castlebay & Tarbet to Uig sections would need to be pre-booked but that the inter-island links would be “first come – first served” and pre-booking wouldn’t be a requirement. Is that correct? Anyone had any experience of using the ferries on this route.

Any recommended “must see” areas &/or wild camping spots?

 

PilgrimPhil

 

 

Must sees

1. Barra airport - watch the 'Glasgow' plane land and take off on the beach

 

2. North Uist - Golden Eagle: a good chance to see one at 57.609571, -7.374264 on Committee Road. Sit there and wait. If its not too windy its a great wild camping spot .... and genuinely 'wild'

 

3. Harris - Luskentyre Beach - on a nice day its 'paradise'

Also on Harris to spend the night 57.995818, -7.090853 at Hushinish. There is, or was, a toilet here and a fresh water tap. Watch the gannets diving in the distance

 

4. Lewis - Callanish Standing Stones. Also the Blackhouses nearby.

 

If your interest is shops and shopping the Outer Hebrides are not for you. If you like to get away from it all, accept the sometimes poor weather, then its fantastic.

 

On wild camping, there are lots of places to pull over for the night. Just respect the locals and ask if in any doubt. Calmac terminals tend to have dump and fresh water facilities.

 

And please don't do what I heard one motorhomer boast about on the ferry. He arrived with all his provisions, fully fuelled and "spent £9 in a week"

 

The locals are generally very friendly, welcoming, and tend to wave. We smile and wave back. When I asked one local if we could stop overnight by the sea near his house he said "Of course. We have the view 365 days a year, you can have it tonight."

 

Good post and agree with all points mentioned. Another worthwhile visit is to see the wreck of the Catalina plane which crashed on Vatersay killing three of the nine man crew. It's been there since May 1944. http://www.501places.com/2013/07/catalina-on-vatersay/

 

I used one of the Hopscotch routes which also gave me an additional option of visiting Coll or Tiree on the return leg. I opted for Tiree where i spent three or four days. It even has it's own airport!

 

I pre-booked everything as back then i was still working so had a schedule to stick to.

 

Arthur is right about shops/shopping and it's worth remembering that virtually everything shuts down on Sundays (what they call the Sabbath). Even a childrens playground i found on Lewis was locked on Sunday with a sign on the gate saying "Please Respect our Sabbath". All the islanders are quite religious and where Lewis and Harris is predominantly Calvinism, Barra is Roman Catholic. So Sundays are blissfully peaceful......a bit like the mainland used to be before Sunday shopping!!

[Pipkim]

An update on the above:-

 

Just booked the Calmac Hopscotch 23 route with the Oban to Barra & Barra to South Uist booked - the remainder left "open" for us decide when on the islands. All starting with ferry from Oban on Wed 24th May.

 

Now searching for walks, sites & wild camping places.

 

The recent Robson Green travelogue on the Outer Hebrides gave a good basic understanding of where everything was.

 

Getting excited now...........

 

PilgrimPhil

[tonyg3nwl]

Hi, very interesting series of posts..given me food for thought.

 

Other half insists on turning north this year, and I have been thinking North Coast 500, but have been there, done that, in our caravanning days, some 35 years ago, before they heard of tarred roads.

 

Other half's family anticedents were victims of clearances around 1820, , who settled on Black Isle, where we first met 1961.

 

Last visit to Skye, around time of new bridge, was ruined by attack of midgies..viscious beasties.. any suggestions for reliable protection and eviction from them?

 

Re ferrys ,what are associated costs crossing durations, etc, and have you learned the language???

 

No fixed plan at present, but likely to be there mid may, to mid june approx.. lookout for the reg no.

 

 

Tonyg3nwl.

 

 

[Pipkim]

The Hopscotch 23 circular route includes 5 ferries:-

 

Oban to Castebay [barra]- 4 3/4 hrs

 

Ardmhor [barra] to Eriksay [s Uist] - 40 mins

 

Berneray [N Uist] to Leverburgh [Harris] - 1hr

 

Tarbert [Lewis] to Uig [skye] - 1hr 40 mins

 

Armadale [skye] to Mallaig] - 45 mins

 

Total cost for 8m motorhome + 2 adults = £252.45

 

The Calmac website is good & the staff seem to be very "on the ball". The booking took all of 5 minutes on the phone!!

 

Have fun planning - as e are!

 

PilgrimPhil

 

 

 

 

[arthur49]

tonyg3nwl - 2017-03-05 1:12 PM

 

................................ and have you learned the language???

 

Tonyg3nwl.

 

 

Chan eil feum air a 'chànan ionnsachadh. H-uile duine a 'bruidhinn Beurla

;-) ;-) ;-)

 

(Google Translate is magnificent!)

[the clampits]

tonyg3nwl - 2017-03-05 1:12 PM

 

Last visit to Skye, around time of new bridge, was ruined by attack of midgies..viscious beasties.. any suggestions for reliable protection and eviction from them?

 

 

I've used Smidge for a few years now, and it certainly works for me. Its ideal for walking/cycling in the highlands, because sweat doesn't seem to wash it off. Whilst it stops them biting, you do need to use a net to keep them from irritating you by just getting in the way. Smidge is a bit expensive, but in my mind it is well worth it.

https://www.smidgeup.com/

[dora_ex]

If you are planning on visiting Barra you may or may not be aware about wild camping rules there being challenged a little over the last few years.

 

There are a couple of recognised spots where motorhomes are allowed, but other than those you are asked to use the small campsites that have been set up on several crofts.

 

We were last there a few years ago and we were asked to only camp at the place listed by way of a leaflet given to us on the ferry.

 

We were told by some islanders that the island people felt they were reaching breaking point with motorhomes parked up for too long in places that really weren't wild such as piers and picnic places.

 

The situation may have changed since we were last there so worth maybe checking with the Barra Island Council as to what the situation is now.

 

[MarianneDeux]

Take Peter May's Lewis Trilogy for reading as you travel the Outer Hebrides. Reading these books where they are set added even more pleasure to our time spent on the Islands. The Lewis Man has a number of incidents spread throughout the islands from Lewis down to Eriksay. Our favourite island I think was South Uist though we enjoyed all our experiences on the differing "islands".

[Pipkim]

Thanks for the warning on the Barra wild camping situation

We have actually booked two nights at Croft No. 2 campsite which seems to be north of the airport. We then move on to the Uists. I assume that the other islands are relatively OK for wild camping?

 

The Lewis Trilogy books by Peter May have been recommended to me & I am reserving them from our library.

 

Thanks again,

 

PilgrimPhil

[dora_ex]

We stayed at Croft 2 - its in a stunning location and the owners are gems, sure you will love it.

 

On the other islands more campsites springing up but wild camping more tolerated, as long as it was wild and not on carparks etc.

 

There are plenty of places well out of the way on beaches and up tracks that you should have no problems.

[arthur49]

This is an interesting link I think

http://www.isleofbarra.com/campsitelisting.htm

[Pipkim]

We've just returned from our Outer Hebrides jaunt.

 

We had a great time even though we were delayed on the Oban to Barra ferry by a day due to a technical issue [fouled propeller apparently]. Calmac did compensate for the extra night site fee & fish & chip supper though!

 

We travelled up through the islands as planned mixing & matching wildcamping with proper sites. [2 to 1]. Spectacular white sandy beaches that you could just park up at for a few nights and fall asleep to the sound of the waves breaking!

 

The West Harris Trust have set up a really good scheme. They have two "proper sites" but a number of wildcamping spots overlooking Luskentyre beach which is first come - first served.

 

We saw lots of wildlife including a Golden Eagle in West Harris. No otters though but plenty of gannets diving for their supper at Cliff Machair on the north west side of Lewis [next to Uig].

 

We actually extended our trip by a few days and CalMac were very helpful & obliging in changing our ferries a couple of time.

 

Will we return? Probably but maybe with a smaller motorhome - we felt a bit "restricted" at times with our 7.5m long van trying to park up at some of the touristy areas.

 

PilgrimPhil

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PJay]

Pipkim - 2017-06-12 2:38 PM

 

We've just returned from our Outer Hebrides jaunt.

 

We had a great time even though we were delayed on the Oban to Barra ferry by a day due to a technical issue [fouled propeller apparently]. Calmac did compensate for the extra night site fee & fish & chip supper though!

 

We travelled up through the islands as planned mixing & matching wildcamping with proper sites. [2 to 1]. Spectacular white sandy beaches that you could just park up at for a few nights and fall asleep to the sound of the waves breaking!

 

The West Harris Trust have set up a really good scheme. They have two "proper sites" but a number of wildcamping spots overlooking Luskentyre beach which is first come - first served.

 

We saw lots of wildlife including a Golden Eagle in West Harris. No otters though but plenty of gannets diving for their supper at Cliff Machair on the north west side of Lewis [next to Uig].

 

We actually extended our trip by a few days and CalMac were very helpful & obliging in changing our ferries a couple of time.

 

Will we return? Probably but maybe with a smaller motorhome - we felt a bit "restricted" at times with our 7.5m long van trying to park up at some of the touristy areas.

 

PilgrimPhil

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice to see that you have come back and reported on your trip. Sounds interesting.

What time of year would you say was good time to go, re weather etc?

 

recently watched on TV the Monty Halls programs where he stayed for 6 months to act as warden and help promote tourism, and raise money for projects. Looked a bit wild, but interesting, may be a bit too much walking involved for me sadly.

PJay