aandncaravan Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 In the situation you describe, the Battery Master is just adding to the Drain, as it is constantly drawing small amounts of power from both the Starter and Habitation batteries. If you are spending most of your time on mains, the EBL will keep the Starter battery charged far more intelligently with less degradation with the battery master removed. Yes a LRM1218 or Votronic Solar regulator installed as the Motorhome manufacturer recommends will charge the Starter battery more efficiently, intelligently and with less Starter battery degradation without the Battery Master in situ. I would suggest you remove it, why would you want the EBL 29 and the Battery Master both charging the same Starter battery? I just can't fathom the logic of it's installation here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david lloyd Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 aandncaravan - 2017-05-08 1:21 PM ....why would you want the EBL 29 and the Battery Master both charging the same Starter battery? I just can't fathom the logic of it's installation here. No, neither can I Allan. But, it's what was on when I bought it so the best I can do now is put the system back to how it was intended and how it would work best. Just needs that clarification on the Electrobloc to make sure that when I change to a solar charge controller that is wired direct to the EBL it will be charging both batteries on either mains or solar. So thanks for clearing that up. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david lloyd Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 aandncaravan - 2017-04-18 11:23 AM .......Check they have installed the safety fuse up near the roof where the cables enter the vehicle, often not fitted on older installations........... . Hi Allan (aandncaravans) I have received my regulator and other bits so hope to fit them this week. Could you just confirm what size fuse should be installed where the solar cables enter the roof and whether a torpedo tyoe fuse and holder will be ok as I have one if these to hand? As the solar cable terminates at the batteries at the moment it is too short to reach the new location of the Vitronic regulator which will be next to the EBL 29 on the other side of the van. I need to extend this cable by about two metres and have a Maplin GZ98 and GZ99 Connector block which I hope will be suitable. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 The best location for the fuse to allow the Solar Panel to be isolated from the regulator, is as you say, where the cables enter into the vehicle. However, just having a fuse in this section of cable is more than most have, so in your installation the best place might be where the old cable terminates, just before you extend it to run to the new regulator at the EBL 29? Putting it here is most likely in an accessible place and allows you to use the Fuse as a 'connector' to join/extend the two cables. Just put the Negative (-) cable into a 'Choc Block' connector. Don't be afraid of using the often maligned 'crude' chock block connectors inside the Motorhome, they are simple, reliable and very easy for both skilled and unskilled to use. Take no notice of all the talk 'it must be Soldered to be reliable' as every connector in your House 230v circuit, from Light Switches to Mains RCD, uses the same screw Clamp connector mechanism. As does the Mains 230v in the Motorhome. All of the cables on the Motorhome 230v are inserted into exactly the same screw clamp connector as a 'Choc Block', not one is Soldered. I would trust a Screw Clamp style connector far more than I would a Maplin connector, although I have no idea what a Gz98 connector is!! A 15amp fuse would be our suggestion with you Solar Panel set-up. Doesn't matter which type of Fuse holder you use, so long as it is easy to remove the fuse for operations like changing the battery. If you remove the battery without first isolating the Solar Panel from the Regulator, any charge in progress will suddenly have nowhere to go, potentially leading to a voltage spike at the EBL or other issues like a failed regulator. For an example, see section 5 in the Schaudt LR1218 instructions: "Malfunction of or damage to connected consumers : 1. Do not operate the solar charge regulator without a battery. 2. Disconnect connector ”Plus Solar module(s)” on the solar charge regulator before changing or removing the battery". Therefore suggest you think about putting a note on the Habitation battery advising any Technicians to isolate the Solar Panel first with a note on where the Solar Panel Isolation Fuse can be found. Less important with the Votronic as it has a very low 'Maintenance/Float charge' rate, but suggest you consider pulling the fuse rather than constantly charge the batteries when the vehicle is in storage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david lloyd Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 That's great, thanks Allan. The GZ98/99 connector is just a two pin block that 'locks' together and can be uncoupled but I take your point about the choc blocks. I have access to the cable entry at roof level which is contained within a cable channel but it would mean cutting the cable at that point and is more difficult to work with so may do as you suggest and reuse the existing torpedo fuse holder which is presently in the wire from the existing regulator to the hab battery and will not be needed. Just need to get a length of the right size cable and then get it installed. Thanks again David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artheytrate Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 12V-24V DC HOME SOLAR SYSTEM WATERPROOF CIRCUIT BREAKER RESET FUSE INVERTER This is what I used from EBay. John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 This is my own personal, view not based on any real scientific evidence but I have not been impressed with the quality of the trip fuses we bought and tried. At high currents of around 30amps or greater, they usually tripped quite cleanly, but not always, Some had a 'sticky' operation. When it came to low currents of 20a or less they seemed to have a greater reluctance to trip cleanly at the rated current. When many Solar Installations run at less than 10 amps, I suspect many of these devices would not give reliable, safe operation. All the units we bought to try went in the bin.. I would personally stick with a simple, reliable, but quality fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david lloyd Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 We'll,it's all in now. Votronic duo 165 fitted next to the EBL29 and wired directly to this via the EBL solar input socket. The Votronic has a 15 amp fuse and I have populated the EBL fuse holder marked 'solar' with another 15 amp fuse. The Battery Master has been removed from the EBL terminal at the back leading to the batteries. At the other side of the van lie the two Varta LA95 AGM batteries which are connected directly to the Votronic regulator and also have a temperature sensor attached to the negative terminal post of one of the batteries. The solar panel fuse (15amp) is located here where the incoming cable originally terminated at the old regulator - I have simply attached a new length of cable to take it on to the new regulator position and inserted the fuse holder at this joint rather than make another break up near the roof entry point. Finally, just above the sofa where the batteries are located, is a Vitronic Solar Computer, wired directly to the regulator. I still need to do the initial setup on this. Hoping all this goes well now. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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