Deisel fuel tank

[Guest Derek Parnell]

The fuel tank on my Renault Master has developed a slow leak. Does anyone have experience of repairing this. I have been told that it can be sifbronzed or soldered if I can get at it. Can anyone advise. Thanks, Derek

[Guest henry]

try using a product called ( i think) oiltight stik I'm fairly sure that is the correct name and spelling. Especially for the sort of leak you have described. available from any motor factors regards henry

[Guest Derek Parnell]

Thanks Henry, I'll give it a try...Derek

[Guest Derek Uzzell]

GOOGLE search on "Oyltite-Stik" for more info.

[Guest Gordon]

Diesel fuel tank,slow leak.We seem to be under the impression the tank has been damaged by collision of a foreign object.As for rust the metal will have to be cut out and renewed by say MIG welding.Soldering,brazing,sifbronze,etc,to rust is just not on.. How about a leaking joint:-pipe connection or tank sender unit.This is an easier repair. Come on boys be realistic. Gordon..

[Guest Clive]

This procedure works for me for both diesel and petrol tanks. If the tank is not rusty but has been punctured by an impact then it can be repaired at a cost. It must be removed and all fittings taken off it. Then tip a large can of GUNK into it and swill it around. Then tip out the Gunk. Then fill it with water and wash it out several times. Then put the tank the other side of the stout garage door and poke your oxy-acetelene torch round the corner and quickly into the biggest aperture. If you washed it out properly nothing will happen. If you did not wash it out properly or used an alternative to Gunk (like Jizer) then it will (if it has had petrol in it at least) go BANG and increase its capacity by half a gallon or so. (Believe me I have done all of this!) or split along a seam. Then clean back to bright metal all around the impacted area and repair using bronze weld and flux. "Sif-Bronze" is correct. or even Silver Solder and suitable flux. MIG will also work but is not so easy to ensure a fluid tight repair. I would not use soft solder in this application as it lacks mechanical streangth. Dry off, clean off flux and paint it. BUT Before you do any of this check out the cost of a replacement new tank on the internet. If the tank is rusty or gone at a seam then replace it anyway. I have used bronze welding to repair a crunched sump plug on a car engine and something entirely different with aluminium motorcycle tanks. That,s where the half gallon increase was achieved. All the advice above is based on personal experience. Clive - the ex trials bike nutter! (I remember when petrol as 3'9d a gallon)

[Guest Colin]

A friend of mine remembers standing in his shed with a oxy torch in his hand, he woke up in the garden with half a tank wrapped round his leg, by some miricle he only had minor briuses and the torch fell onto a bare flower bed

[Guest Clive]

Cheap shed!

[Guest Pat]

Hi I have gas welded truck diesel tanks (albeit very large tanks ie 400 litres) with a small amount of diesel still in them many times and never had a problem in fact to check the weld was leak proof I would rotate the tank so the diesel went on to the weld and see if there were any leaks! Never would dream of welding a petrol tank without first steam cleaning it inside and out for at least 15 mins then use a small drop of deisel to check the weld as above ! Pat

[Guest Derek Parnell]

Thanks for all the in put lads. It is a deisel tank. will let you know how I get on. Yes I do remember cheap petrol, I had a Vincent Shadow on L plates! . I bet I couldn't even start it now, Let alone hold the thing upright! Cheers

[Guest David Powell]

If you can see the leak and it is on a flat part of the tank it can be repaired by drilling the hole bigger [after emptying the tank of course]and srewing in a good quality self tapping screw with a compound washer [not rubber].Easy and not dangerous work to undertake...Petrol was only two shillings and four pence a gallon when I had my Douglas Aero 600.