Tony44935 Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Hi everyone, since doing my last thread, I have learned quite a bit and all a learning curve. So starting this new thread. I have a very small problem, between the cab and the habitation roof, exterior, there is a seal that runs the full length of the joint between cab and roof. This has a very very small tiny crack about 2 inches long. From reading up all over the web, it has came to light, that there is quite alot of people using a substance call Captain's Trolley creeping crack ( I've looked up can get through eBay/Amazon, £6-8 bottle approx) It reputed to work it's way through the finest of cracks and to make a permanent seal. Has anyone used this before ???? What are anybody's thoughts. Obviously , the section that has this tiny damage , whatever substance ,I use must be flexible, ie hot weather, movement on the roads causes movement on the joints that hold the roof and cab together but this captain's trolley says it is flexible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laimeduck Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Tony hi I have used Captain Tolley's and have found it works very well in the right situation. I have used it on my Motorhome on my Citroen 2CV and on a 34 ft yacht where water was creeping into the hull via a stanchion bolt. (Yacht racing in the Solent). It certainly won't do any harm to try it & from what you describe it'll most likely work. You may need a few applications, It can be quite messy to use unless the surface to be treated is horizontal or near horizontal as it really does flow & spread. Spillages should be cleaned immediately and the area wiped with WD40. (Advice from Peter Tolley himself). If you do use WD40 then you will need to re-polish the area afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKen1 Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 laimeduck - 2017-04-28 9:33 AMIt can be quite messy to use unless the surface to be treated is horizontal or near horizontal as it really does flow & spread. Spillages should be cleaned immediately and the area wiped with WD40. (Advice from Peter Tolley himself). If you do use WD40 then you will need to re-polish the area afterwards.Agree with Jeremy here.. clean any surplus off quickly , dont over use the same cleaning rag either and check regularly no more runs as once it sets it almost impossible to remove.But great for sealing small cracks.Brian K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceM Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 My vote is with Creeping Crack as well. As stated, build up the applications with minimum 30 min gaps between until it sits on the surface. I’ve used it on boats and the van both for specific leaks and as a precautionary measure. It’s worked well every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony44935 Posted April 28, 2017 Author Share Posted April 28, 2017 Thanks for you both for your advice, would appreciate anybody else that would have used Captain's Trollleyand in the area I want to treat. To clean up the sealant that is already there, what would I use white spirit ???? I don't know if this would affect the sealant that is already there. ??? Would it be ok to run a mastic sealant over this small crack after it has dried ?? ( I was just thinking of getting my son to do a tidy up job with a white sealant right across the seal between the cab and roof. My last question to use a sealant in the area between the join of the cab and roof, what type and name of sealant could he use. Sorry so many questions, but this is all new to me. You are all being a big help, I'm glad I joined this forum. Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 I would use something like White Sikaflex 512 as more compatible with what is probably the existing silicon sealant. Much easier to apply and stay in place while it cures. Yes you can use white spirit to clean the old seal but make sure it evaporates fully afterwards and you can use something like brake cleaner on a cloth , or meths to make sure it is all clean of residue. You may find meths cleans the old seal up pretty well just then needing the crack filled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Tony, sealants are complicated bits of science, and not all sealants are compatible with others. It would be wisest, IMO, before using anything on the existing sealant to try to find out what CI used to seal the bodyshell joints. Some sealants merely fail to bond to others, others bond quite happily, and others again react adversely with each other over time to the detriment of one, the other, or both. I would then check whether Captain Tolley's has any known reaction with the particular sealant used before applying it to the crack you have seen. However, I would be inclined to look closely at the visible crack before applying anything, and very carefully and gently probe it with a fine bladed knife, as it is quite possible it is superficial, and doesn't penetrate much into the seal. If this is the case the best remedy of all would be to cut back the surface of the existing sealant right across the joint to sound, uncracked, material, and then apply new and compatible sealant over the whole length of the joint. Two factors affect sealant joints, first drying shrinkage, which is not usually the case with modern sealants, and second UV degradation which, sooner or later, gets them all. The key is to find out what kind of sealant was used on your van, then talk to people like Sika or Henkel, both of which companies have excellent technical departments, describe what you have, and ask them which product they would recommend you use, and whether any specific primers or cleaners should also be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flicka Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 My understanding is that Captain Trolley's creeping crack is predominantly for sealing cracks in hard static components (i.e. steel, aluminium etc.) Not for flexible joints, such as the sealant between the steel cab & GRP or Acrylic panels on a motorhome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laimeduck Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 flicka - 2017-04-28 11:13 PMMy understanding is that Captain Trolley's creeping crack is predominantly for sealing cracks in hard static components (i.e. steel, aluminium etc.) Not for flexible joints, such as the sealant between the steel cab & GRP or Acrylic panels on a motorhome.Flicka hiI don't think that's absolutely correct? It is specified that it will seal around existing sealants - as well as plastics etc and is flexible. Also anecdotal reviews on the product site suggest motorhome windows and overcab areas have been successfully treated.My own experience was with a leaking stanchion on the pulpit of a 34' racing cruiser which caused a leak onto the forepeak berth. The existing sealant had not been applied correctly but Captain Tolleys solved the leak even going nose into large waves during the Round the Isle of Wight race.That's pretty impressive? (Plus the windscreen of my 2CV and on the roof of my motorhome)http://www.captaintolley.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 Tony44935 - 2017-04-28 1:02 AM .. I have a very small problem, between the cab and the habitation roof, exterior, there is a seal that runs the full length of the joint between cab and roof. This has a very very small tiny crack about 2 inches long.... What are anybody's thoughts. Obviously , the section that has this tiny damage , whatever substance ,I use must be flexible, ie hot weather, movement on the roads causes movement on the joints that hold the roof and cab together but this captain's trolley says it is flexible. Hi Tony. I had a similar occur on a previous van. Although it never showed any signs of leaking, the sealant forming the seam between the cab and body was slightly concave , meaning that in water pooled over/within it..and I was never truly comfortable with it.... So after thoroughly cleaning and prepping the area ( I also chamfered out, the "feathered" edges of the OE sealant, and re-beaded) , I "capped" our full seam length (minus 1" short both ends, so as allow run off) by using a 3" flat bevelled edge upvc moulding, bed down on a generous bed of Sika 512... I think we had the van for a 2-3 years after that was done? and during that, admittedly short-ish time, none of the sealant had shown any signs of letting go.... (and all of our vans did tend to creak'n'groan(flex?) when having to sharply turn up onto our very steep drive'...so a pretty good "test" ) I've just found a previous thread, with photos. http://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Roof-joint-seal/33603/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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