MartiH Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Hi Folks, I have a 2012 Hobby D500 Motorhome fitted with a Truma combi 6E. Part way through our last trip the unit decided it didn't want to heat the water any more.. The water heated fine on gas which eliminated the hot water sensor. When on electric only and 60 degree the heater unit displays a green light only ie no codes. Truma have told me that the unit doesn't always show a fault code if the elements have gone, which considering they are a principal component is not particularly useful. The units fuse is okay. Before I start dismantling the unit does anyone have any suggestions as to what else may causing this problem. The elements seem ridiculously priced at £250 +vat for what they are. Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilf Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 You say "heater unit displays a green light only ie no codes". The Flash Codes are only visible with the top plastic cover removed from the unit. The Flash codes are available as an 11 page document downloadable from the Truma website. The Flash Codes are 8 flashes either long (L) or short (S). Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spospe Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 This is the website address for the code list ................ http://users.telenet.be/S-cargo/manuals/bcl_769_2_1_0_en.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 My Truma trauma was solved by wriggling electric connections Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartiH Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Hi all, thanks for your responses. There were no flashing lights on the unit only a steady green light which o me indicates that the unit at least hasn't detected any faults. I have tried a bit of wiggling thinking that wires may have moved during travel all to no avail. I trying to convince myself that the elements are okay as they certainly havent had a huge amount of use over past 4 /2 years. The head scratching continues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennyhb Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Heating elements are a common problem on Combi's probably not worth replacing as they are cheaper to run on gas anyway, especially with sites charging up to €5 a night for EHU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 I'm not sure which fuse(s) you have checked, but there is a "hidden" 240V slow-blow fuse which, if it fails, will inhibit all mains electric heating (space and water) whilst allowing the unit to work perfectly on gas. It seems to be a fairly common failure, but pictures of exactly where the fuse is are difficult to find. It is located under the further cover and lower down than the 12V control PCB with the much more visible 12V fuse. It is not the easiest to get to, and can be a real pig if the Combi has restricted rear access (I speak from experience). If you haven't checked this fuse, it is well worthwhile doing, though, somewhat less encouragingly its failure will normally throw up flashing error codes indicating no 230V power, and thus it may not be relevant to your failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 colin - 2017-07-12 2:59 PM My Truma trauma was solved by wriggling electric connections I should say that I was advised by dealer that it might be poor connection on the Combi unit, but in end it was connection at back of control unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartiH Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Thanks for your rapid responses folks, all contributions gratefully received as they say. I shall go fuse foraging and wire wiggling as I go. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robinhood Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 The 230v fuse I'm referring to is the lower one in the diagram. The obvious 12V fuse is in the higher position, and can be reached by removing the smallish panel. The 230V one needs the whole of the bigger back panel removing (or at least, releasing at the top and folding back if it will go). This exposes 230V workings, so should only be done off hook-up. Fiddly, fiddly job, and only an offchance it is your problem, but...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartiH Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 Thanks for that Robin hood, I may ask Little John if if I need assistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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