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Motorhome hydraulic levellers - waste of money?


Alikelystory

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In the OP's case,are we talking about an "after market" bolt-on levelling system(albeit, fitted prior to purchase) which uses adjustable (possibly self levelling?)rams?..or some form of fancy suspension system, which can be adjusted, to aid levelling?..

 

Because if it's the former, unless these rams have ruddy great spreader plates, the chances are you're going to needing to get out to place some hefty boards under them anyhow (as presumably, if you're needing to deploy it, you won't be on a "level" hard standing?)..in which case, you may as well just to be rolling on to wedges or homemade boards...

 

Also,additional weight (and cost) aside, I'd want to be damned sure of the durability, and of the back up for such a system? Rams will get cruddy/damaged, resulting in seals failing, hoses develop leaks and there could easily be instances where a ram will fail to retract ? So what happens then?

Who will maintain these systems?..who will carry the spares? Does the manufacturer have it's own field engineers?..If not, would you be needing to rely on the motorhome dealer's workshop?..Really!?.

("..sorry mate, it's our busy season..we can book you in in 6 weeks times..")

 

To me, it seems far too much of an over complication, for something that can be remedied with 20 quids' worth of plastic wedges (and/or some manual steadies if you're that fussy about "van wobble")

(also, how much does it all weigh?..although the OP's van is 3850kg, it is also 8m long, so I can't see it being overly endowed on the real-world payload front. )

 

Use it first and see how you get on.

(My guess is, you won't get it fitted..and at most you'll just opt for air spring assistors on the rear).

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Each to his own, I would be more worried about eating up the vans payload, at only 484 kg's with the driver and his personal effects by the time the other half, basic and all those nessescary must have items I think you would be close to it let alone what the levellers may weigh.
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In that case you could have a rear chassis extension on the rear whit a tow bar who stiffens on alko the rear whit diagonal stiffeners. In case of grounding. What are your GC dimensions about ground clearance which for the uk i suggest Stiff 30 cm, soft 25 CFR australia standards. On that tow bar you can put on a citroen C1 which cost full option 10 k euro less than you propose to spend. Just go for whatever you want. On air you drive on clouds whit alko/ vb.
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Dave C - 2017-10-09 7:04 AM

 

monique.hubrechts@gm - 2017-10-08 4:53 PM

 

Yes it is waste of money on motorhomes.It is usefull on trucks loading and trucks whit lift cranes to support their legs. in that case some really legs are coming out. Not the tiny legs of large long motorhome who looks under estimated. First park as horizomtal as possible or drive away to a better place. Air supension from alko/ vb is well invested on front and rear during driving.

 

I don't agree. I have levellers and consider them as money well spent. Have you actually got experience of using hydraulic levellers?

 

Dave

 

I don't agree either. Until you have used them you will never know. I had my levelers fitted to my IVECO chassis by Glide Rite and as far as I am concerned the £3000 cost of their semi automatic system was money well spent. I have been using it for 4 years now without any problems and can pitch on uneven surfaces which those with just plastic ramps could not. While I still use a spirit level to make adjustments, these are at the push of a few buttons as opposed to alighting from the vehicle, placing ramps, gingerly driving up these only to find these need to be repositioned to obtain a level if at all.

peedee

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't want to get into the value of Levellers, but do want to flag up a problem we saw today with the way today's was wired.

 

The wiring has caused major expense to the customer due to lack of understanding of the vehicle electrics by the installer.

 

These levellers can draw significant amounts of power while running and dependent on the gradient, difference in level, etc, can take quite a while to level, thereby drawing a lot of current over a period of time.

 

As a result, they are sometimes set up to run only when the engine is spinning, or with manual instructions to start the engine prior to the operation so the Alternator provides the real energy.

 

All of this is no issue when they are wired direct from the Starter battery, which is our recommendation.

However, if wired from the Habitation battery then all of the Alternator current effectively powering the Hydraulic Motor goes through either an external Charge relay, or through the Motorhome Habitation Power Distribution box, like on a Nordelettronica, Schaudt, Reich, Arsilicii, Calira, etc. then on to the Habitation battery.

 

The amount of power going through the Power Controller is such that, maybe along with 17amps for a Fridge/Freezer and the habitation battery charging 30amps, a Power Controller the likes of many power boxes will fry.

As happened in this case.

 

Even with a British Built Motorhomes Sargent separate relay system, the current will eventually deteriorate the relay.

Even if doesn't actual cause it to burn out, remember the only path into an Autotrail's habitation batteries are via it's wiring at the batteries which isn't always ideal for low currents. In any case still goes through the Sargent EC325, etc. where the wires terminate.

 

 

 

If you have a leveller, or thinking of getting one, we suggest you make sure it is wired from the Starter battery where the maximum power will get through with the minimum voltage drop.

 

The levellers in this case had been installed nearly 2 years ago, simmering the Reich Power Controller until a big levelling operation finally burnt it out.

We couldn't fix it, too badly burned, so that's a £800 + bill from Hymer.

 

 

Whatever the Power unit installed, be it Sargent, BCA or CBE, wiring the Hydraulic Motor from the Battery closest to the Alternator source power is common sense as it's the most efficient and effective.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

--

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I’ve only encountered two occasions where a levelling-jacks system fitted to a European-built motorhome was being employed.

 

The first time involved a large 3-axle Frankia model attempting to level on a soft grassed surface pocked with mole-hills and overlooking the sea. The levellers went down and down and down, and eventually the motorhome was moved to a flat area of the campsite where the ground was firmer (No sea-view though...)

 

The second time was last Wednesday when we overnighted at the Seasonova “Riva Bella” campsite at Ouistreham on the tarmacked motorhome section where the ground had a noticeable slope. Next to us was a large Iveco-based Carthago A-Class that had levelling-jacks front and rear. I noticed that, to get the vehicle level, wooden ‘spreaders’ were positioned under the front jacks and, when levelled, the Carthago’s front wheels were well up in the air. There’s no way that ‘wedges’ would have allowed this vehicle to be satisfactorily levelled, as the amount of lift needed would have been too great. So if you have (or intend to buy) a really long heavy motorhome, this type of automated levelling system makes good sense despite its considerable cost.

 

(Oh yes - still lots of migrants at Ouistreham and motorhomes were all being inspected undeneath at the Portsmouth disembarkation end. The customs officer told us that they had found someone hanging on to a motorhome chassis the previous day.)

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Someone has emailed to say that the system levels so quickly the power draw is small, so doesn't matter which battery the power comes from.

 

Not going to argue the point, but the experience of our 'owner' was that for all sorts of reasons it wasn't straightforward, he often had to level a couple of times to get it right. Twice it wasn't actually quite level, despite the system 'thinking' it was, and he had to retract and start again.

 

The one that burnt out the Reich was on a second levelling attempt.

 

Derek notes above one owner who failed completely on soft ground.

 

 

The owner of the burnt out Reich Power controller emailed this morning with the good news that the fitting company of the system is going to pay Hymer's bill when the work is done.

 

While they don't admit liability, the MH has been booked in to change the wiring to run from the Starter battery prior to the Reich box replacement.

 

 

 

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Brian, I think you are right, in addition to the usual, Goldschmitt is one and there is another that uses lightweight Aluminium hydraulic legs, maybe HPC?

 

I also think there are some 'independents' that install for the manufacturers, so even a 'big make' system may not be installed by the manufacturer themselves.

 

 

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We saw a Hymer A class today with E+P levellers by SAP, an installation that was beautifully done.

 

Even though the habitation batteries were right next to where the Hydraulic motor was located, therefore easier for the installer to use the Habitation batteries, it was wired direct to the Starter battery.

 

The quality of the work was exceptional.

 

There was a Alternator D+ issue (turned out to be in the Merc chassis wiring) that was stopping the Fridge, Habitation charging and the levellers from functioning.

 

I long call to SAP on trouble shooting the Leveller system and a lot of help from them helped diagnose the source of the problem.

 

What a quality bunch of guys they have.

 

Don't know who I spoke to, but very impressed not just with the skills and knowledge, but willingness to help on a system they installed over 2 years ago..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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