StuartO Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 The operating cord in one of my window blinds has detached and I am struggling to work out how it is supposed to work and where the end attaches. There's a long cord (one each side) which winds back and forth and round and round in an elaborate way and serves to hold the sunlight (pleated) blind in position at any level. One end of one cord and both ends of the other have become detached and it's not clear where the top end should attach to. The blind frame has what might be a model number of 9554 on the back of the frame. It's on a 2006 Hymer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Do you only have one such blind on your van? If not, couldn't you remove a similar blind from another window, and use that as the pattern to re-thread the detached cord? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesspark Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Look on utube, I repaired one on my vehicle using utube vidio instructions.Fesspark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartO Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 Thanks guys. I had thought of taking another window blind offto see how it works but this one was such a pig to remove because fixing screws were inaccessible at the top, that I I hoped someone wloud be able to tell me. Unfortunately YouTube doesn't see to have a relevant video either so it looks like I will have to take another blind off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartO Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 Having identified which of the other window blind frames would come off without the struggle I had with the dysfunctional one, I can now answer my own question. This model of Remis window blind (manufactured in 2005, probably no longer made) has an insect screen which pulls down from the top on a sprung roller and a concertina sun/nightime blind which pulls up from the bottom which is held in position using crossed-over strings. The bottom end of the string passes through a plastic ferrule in the frame and then through a tensioning spring (similar to the sort of spring you get inside a retractible biro) after which a stopper know is used to prevent the cord from passing back up the spring. The cords are threaded up a set of plastic tags glued to the folds of the blind and where they meet the top rail, feed through plastic runners and cross over, then under the ends of the top rail and up inside the side rails. They pass through the top of the side rails and are retained (after tensioning) by a self tapping screw. This screw is identical to the self-tappers used to fix the assembly to the inside wall of the MH except that they are screwed into a raised pillar in the plastic corner moulding, so when you underscrew the fastenings to take the assembly off the wall it is important to identify these cord-tensioning screws and leave them in place. What allows the sun/nightime blind to stay in place wherever you pull it up to is simply the friction of the cords as they pass along their tortuous route. The light tensioning applied by the biro-type springs at the bottom is enough to allow the top rail of the blind to slide over the cords as it moves yet keep the cords in place. The only movement which takes place as the blind operates is the cord runners behind the top rail of the blind which slide over the stationary cords. My blind became dysfunctional because one of the stopper knots at the bottom of the cords came undone (and the tensioning spring therefore came off and the biro-type spring was lost) and when I removed the assembly from the wall I made the mistake of taking all the self-tappers out, which meant the top ends of the cords also became detached. The only really awkward part of the job was getting at the mounting screws because the assembly had obvously been fastened to the out wall before the overhead lockers were fixed in place and the cabling conduit which is attached to the underside of these lockers blocked access to the upper part of the window blind assembly. I got the corner covers off easily (by prising off with a pen knife blade) but I had to fiddle about for ages getting a stubby screwdriver of just the right length into the space available to reach one of the screw heads. Although the fastenings are only 10X3 mm (approx) self tappers into thethin plywood interior wall material, some of them were difficult to get started and I did need to align the screw driver straight on to get the necessary. purchase. By removing the top corner covers you can access the screws which secure the top ends of the runner cords and adjust the tension as necessary. They shouldn't be hauled up really tight, just take the slack out. Apart from that, any repair requires you to first remove the blind assembly from the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granddad Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 how to restring a remis roof blind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.