Bop Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Evening All, I'm after a wee bit of advice from you chaps before I phone my dealer tomorrow. I have a Pilote MH (build date May 2017) with a 120W solar panel; LR1218 Solar Regulator and a EBL 271 leading to 2 x 105Ah batteries (wet). We have always used the van on EHU since we picked it up on the 1st Aug 2017. It has been in storage on my driveway for November-to-March inclusive and I have kept an oil heater in the van to keep it cosy over the winter period. All that said, I have today checked the fuses on the EBL and have found that the 20A Fuse which protects the solar circuit to be blown. I replaced the fuse and it popped straight away. I then disconnected the solar leads from the Reg to the EBL and replaced the fuse but as soon as I reconnected the Reg-to-EBL circuit then the new fuse blew again. I've read a few things this afternoon on Alan's various pages but I can't seem to root cause the problem. That said, I now know that an LRM1218 would be better for my set-up due to the fact that the floating charge would not exceed 13.4v as opposed to my current set-up which charges continuously at 14.2v. I have a sneaking suspicion that I've had this problem since I purchased the van but because of EHU use-only I've not picked up on the problem sooner. Any advice would be most welcome. Regards to all, Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plwsm2000 Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Andrew,If it has never worked from new, then it could be a wiring fault or a fault with the solar controller. A wiring fault could be either a dead short or the wiring has been swapped (reverse polarity). I would not touch anything if it is still under warranty and it is not an emergency situation. Reversed wiring could cause some serious damage to the controller and just swapping the wires back may not fix the problem. If you have "tampered" with it, the dealer may argue you have made matters worse! I would advise against plugging in the connector with the fuse in place as the mate-n-lock connector contacts could be damaged by the high current arc that will be generated if the fault is still present. It is better to first check with a meter that is it not shorted, then plug in the connector with the fuse removed, and finally replace the fuse (ideally with some pliers so you don't burn your fingers!) Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Andrew, If the Fuse stays intact when the Solar Reg 3 pin plug is not in situ, then you may have a short in the LR1218 between the Habitation battery and the negative. Or more likely it may be reverse polarity because the wiring colours are not UK 'standard'. I might be worth checking tomorrow the voltage at the Starter battery with the plug back in situ but the 20amp habitation fuse removed.You are looking for about 13.5 - 13.8v at the Starter battery when not on EHU. Suggest that until you get this all working you use 10 amp fuses, rather than 20a for the habitation Solar fuse. Many reading this might envy you as the older Elektroblock units only have 10amp MAX Solar capability. Check the wiring :The out put cabling from the LR1218 should be (reading top down on the LR1218) Red to Starter battery, Black to Habitation (labelled Wohnraum) battery and Brown to 'Minus batterie'/Negative. Isolate the Solar Panel from the LR1218 before you start correcting any anomalies by removing the fuse in the Positive Feed from the Solar Panel. If there isn't one, suggest you fit a fuseholder and leave it un populated while you do your corrective work. Check that the Solar Panel + is wired to the correct spade on the LR1218. I know that this is under warranty, but Dealer technicians make such a mess of Solar, that if you have the basic skills you will do a better job with less resulting damage.Just like Ian May's Hymer this afternoon. Went to fix a problem following two failed 'Professional' installations of an EBL 100. It had not only been installed poorly, but their subsequent testing didn't reveal that the Alternator wasn't charging the batteries due to a failed circuit. I fixed it all and then the Solar caught my eye. Professionally installed, with neat wiring, but it broke all of Schaudt's and Hymers rules.The installers can't even get the basics right, probably 98% of the ones we see are poor. If this one was reconfigured as per Schaudt's guide, the Solar gain would almost double. The Solar current and voltage for both Starter and Habitation batteries would also appear on the main LCD display unit above the door with all the other charging information. Trust me, if you have half a brain, you will do a better job, with lower risk of associated damage. With the EBL 100 this afternoon, every time they fixed one thing, broke something else. So if you do get the Dealer to do the Solar, check every thing works when you collect it, every single light, Fridge, Heating, charging on engine, 240v charging, etc. Please don't assume because it worked before, that it still will. The Votronic MPPT 165 is a better regulator than the LRM 1218 and half the cost.Ian May might also buy your old LR1218, if it isn't shorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bop Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 aandncaravan - 2018-03-27 10:10 PM Check the wiring : The out put cabling from the LR1218 should be (reading top down on the LR1218) Red to Starter battery, Black to Habitation (labelled Wohnraum) battery and Brown to 'Minus batterie'/Negative. Hi Allan, and many thanks for such a great reply. :-) I've quoted this particular sentence above because as soon as I read it I knew there was something wrong with the wiring configuration of my Reg. The dealer has inserted the black to minus and the brown to Hab/Wohnraum hence the reason why the system is short curcuiting. I'm going to have a play-around as per your advice and then I'll revert back with the results. Thanks once again - you're a star!! Best wishes, Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bop Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 plwsm2000 - 2018-03-27 8:40 PM Andrew, If it has never worked from new, then it could be a wiring fault or a fault with the solar controller. A wiring fault could be either a dead short or the wiring has been swapped (reverse polarity). I would not touch anything if it is still under warranty and it is not an emergency situation. Reversed wiring could cause some serious damage to the controller and just swapping the wires back may not fix the problem. If you have "tampered" with it, the dealer may argue you have made matters worse! I would advise against plugging in the connector with the fuse in place as the mate-n-lock connector contacts could be damaged by the high current arc that will be generated if the fault is still present. It is better to first check with a meter that is it not shorted, then plug in the connector with the fuse removed, and finally replace the fuse (ideally with some pliers so you don't burn your fingers!) Phil Hi Phil, your first sentence hit the nail on the head from what I see now. Thanks for posting up - I really appreciate your input. All the best, Andrew P.S. I like your van B-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandncaravan Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 You are welcome.If you want detailed wiring diagrams on how the LR 1218 Solar regulator should be wired, or more info on the newer LRM 1218 see the bottom of this webpage : http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/solar-power.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bop Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 aandncaravan - 2018-03-28 11:51 AM You are welcome. If you want detailed wiring diagrams on how the LR 1218 Solar regulator should be wired, or more info on the newer LRM 1218 see the bottom of this webpage : http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/solar-power.php Hi Allan, there is no denying that you're an incredibly useful man to know B-) I have done as you recommended and the solar unit is now working for the first time since we bought the van. I have also reduced the EBL-located solar fuse from 20 to 10A. I'm in the process of extending the solar wires so that I can add an one-off switch (fused) just under the seat as there is no doubt that the LR1218 Reg will fry my batteries in very quick time. I was tempted to change the Reg but there is a chance that we may change the van again in the next 2-4months. That said, I have left a message with my supplying dealer today to say that their YTS tech guy has been found wanting but as you would guess I've not yet received a call back. Once again thanks for your expert advice. Best wishes, Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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