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ducato boxer relay rear hinge lubrication


trialsrider

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Hello

 

Got a stiff rear door on my 2014 relay. Any advice on getting some lubrication inside. I've read on here people have removed hinges etc but I'm worried that will damage paintwork and be a real hassle. Has anybody any suggestions ? I was going to use some targeted wd40 first through the straw nozzle.

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This issue was discussed here (in some depth) a couple of months ago

 

http://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Ducato-Pvc-rear-door-hinges-stiff/48901/

 

and back in 2012

 

http://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/X2-50-Rear-Doors/27353/

 

It’s clear that trying to unstiffen the hinges merely by using a lubricant-spray like WD40 (or a PTFE/silicone product) may not be effective. I note that it was suggested that “Corrosion Block/ACF-50” be tried

 

http://www.acf-50.co.uk/automotive.htm

 

but it would still be necessary to get the stuff to penetrate into the hinge’s interior. You might consider Tracker’s March 2018 suggestion to heat the hinge (making sure you protect the bodywork around it) as that might help a lubricant to penetrate.

 

(Not really sure there is anything to add to what’s already been said...)

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Derek Uzzell - 2018-05-12 8:39 AM

 

This issue was discussed here (in some depth) a couple of months ago

 

http://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Ducato-Pvc-rear-door-hinges-stiff/48901/

 

and back in 2012

 

http://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/X2-50-Rear-Doors/27353/

 

It’s clear that trying to unstiffen the hinges merely by using a lubricant-spray like WD40 (or a PTFE/silicone product) may not be effective. I note that it was suggested that “Corrosion Block/ACF-50” be tried

 

http://www.acf-50.co.uk/automotive.htm

 

but it would still be necessary to get the stuff to penetrate into the hinge’s interior. You might consider Tracker’s March 2018 suggestion to heat the hinge (making sure you protect the bodywork around it) as that might help a lubricant to penetrate.

 

(Not really sure there is anything to add to what’s already been said...)

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Does anybody have any photos of where they drilled ? I'm guessing you need to drill on the top part of the hinge to let the lubricant work its way down ?

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The following link (referred to in this forum’s March 2018 thread ) is to the MHFacts forum discussion that mentions (in the 6th posting) drilling the hinges to aid lubrication

 

http://forums.motorhomefacts.com/185-bodywork-trim/106609-rear-door-hinges.html

 

Photos were provided, but you’d need to login to MHFacts to view them.

 

The MHFacts poster said "I removed all of the hinges and drilled 3 holes in each one so they were out of sight with the doors closed, and so they could be lubricated to free them and to maintain them.”

 

That statement implies that the holes were drilled on the ‘back’ of the hinge’s centre section where they would be invisible when the door was shut - it would be the logical place to drill holes so that lubricant might find its way in. I can’t see drilling a hole on the top of the hinge doing any good unless the hole could extend the full depth of the hinge.

 

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I'm going to drill my hinges as a prophylactic treatment. Could someone tell me how they are made ? Is it a central pin which is pushed through all 3 sections and is therefore independent of the 3 parts ? Or is the pin fixed to one particular part of the hinge ? Only asking as it will save me time drilling a part of the hinge if the pin is welded onto it anyway.
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Did this lubricating of the hinges myself by drilling one hole on back of each hinge. But I used grease via a grease gun of course with one of those pointed injector ends instead of a nipple fitting end. Hole needs a larger drill touched on it to seat grease fitting squarely...
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The attached photo is of a set of four rear-door hinges.

 

Everything points to the inner section of the hinge moving on a central ‘pin’, with the hinge’s two outer sections being fixed. On that basis, drilling just a single hole (as Gordon has done) in the hinge’s inner section would be required.

884962106_doorhinges.jpg.e472a0440c0e701df4223cc1ec4a9483.jpg

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Derek Uzzell - 2018-05-18 8:33 AM

 

The attached photo is of a set of four rear-door hinges.

 

Everything points to the inner section of the hinge moving on a central ‘pin’, with the hinge’s two outer sections being fixed. On that basis, drilling just a single hole (as Gordon has done) in the hinge’s inner section would be required.

 

Perfect explanation. Many thanks. Gareth

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