MrsJ Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 We are going to fit an awning rail to my sons vwT5 but the rail he has bought has no instructions. However we have looked at u tube and have the general drift of how it will go. We are going to fix with adhesive and a few stainless self tappers. A couple of questions we are considering are 1. The adhesive. We used ourelves in our self build Sika adhesives which are very good but very expensive. Since then we have used a Gorilla adhesive to fix the end of our drip strip over the sliding door which peeled off with everything else we used.. So shall we use the Gorilla or the Sika. 2. His van has no inner lining, just the carpet direct fixed to the metal. When we put the self tappers in the ends will show through the carpet. The one instruction says take them out at the end but we like the idea of the extra mechanical fixing for security. Is there any type of plastic end cover for this sharp end of the screw. I suppose we could cut off the end and dab a bit of black paint on it but its a bit heath robinson. Anyone got any advice or thoughts on this. Thanks, Lesley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 Hi... I'd "stick"(sorry!) with the Sika. I used Sika *252(black) to fasten an aluminium framed window into the sliding door of our van. (* I think it was 252?...it certainly wasn't 512!) This was back in Jan 2014..and although I had fully expected to have needed to pay it some attention, maybe add a few rivets etc, it hasn't budged at all Possibly a bit late but don't forget to drill it all up, and then remove the rail and clear all burrs and swarf BEFORE you add any adhesive. (don't just stick it on and then drill it after!) As for S/T screws showing: Could you not just source some tidy 3-4mm Allan headed bolts, with washers and locknuts and touch those in? (that's what I had on standby in the shed, in case our window started to fall out! :-D ) ..or maybe run a corresponding timber rail/architrave on the inside to hide them, either that or just use pop rivets? (that's if a rivet gun will get into the rail you've used?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monique.hubrechtsgm Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 That should be by brackets in metal. Adhesive only used to seal water ingress of holes. All forces of a pull out out awning being the skirt and what is hanging on it will act on the skirt it self and when pulling in: On the roll in. and the side wall. Your T5 has a numberof it. You could also consider a tent to the wall and end up in a roll and attach to the back vehicle inside Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgnbuk Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 Thule recommend Sika 252 or Terostat MS937 with appropriate cleaner/activating products in the instructions for their glue-on awning rail, available to download from this site : https://www.leisureoutlet.com/awnings/caravan-awnings/privacy-rooms-and-panels/83609-thule-quickfit-easylink-universal-mount-kit Nigel B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Yorkshire Pudding Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 Hi, If you want it perminanlty fixed, try going to your local car spares shop and get a tube of Tiger seal. That is what the professionals use in car restoration or fixing panels without screws, bolts or welding etc. Word of warning, ... wear a pair of old marigolds ! Lol I’ve used it loads of times over the years for various applications and nothing can touch it . Have a look online or youtube, you’ll see what I mean. (lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted June 23, 2018 Share Posted June 23, 2018 MrsJ - 2018-06-21 11:23 AM ...His van has no inner lining, just the carpet direct fixed to the metal. When we put the self tappers in the ends will show through the carpet. The one instruction says take them out at the end but we like the idea of the extra mechanical fixing for security. Is there any type of plastic end cover for this sharp end of the screw. I suppose we could cut off the end and dab a bit of black paint on it but its a bit heath robinson. Anyone got any advice or thoughts on this. Thanks, Lesley. You could consider using plastic domed-nut covers that can be obtained in quite small sizes and in different colours (examples here) https://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/plastic-nut-covers You’d need to use an adhesive to glue the cover to the pointed end of the self-tapping screw (or fill the cover with adhesive and let it harden before screwing the cover on to the screw’s point) but the end result should be neat enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred22 Posted June 23, 2018 Share Posted June 23, 2018 If you know anyone who has to inject themselves (diabetic etc) the cap which covers the needle will cover the exposed threads of small screws .This is the bit you throw away so no cost involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsJ Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 Thank you everyone for some good ideas. We have been to sunny Barmouth for a few days so nothing has been done yet. We ordered some very small headed wrong length screws before we went and a tube of adhesive. Ordered some longer screws tonight and are getting some primer tomorrow. We need a thin screwdriver of which the shaft will fit through the very narrow channel gap to reach the No 2 head of the fixing self tapper which might be a problem but will look at that tomorrow. Tonight will be a can of cider and a rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huskie Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 Just used soudal fixall. Tested it on a small scrap piece of awning rail to a piece of timber. Tried prising it of with a large screwdriver. I don’t think it’s ever gonna come off. Now fixed new awning rail to motorhome, no screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepe63xnotuse Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 I know I said that our side window is held in by Sika 252 but I would never underestimate the forces that can be(are) involved when the likes awnings/canopies/tarps and the wind come together.... Even the strongest, most appropriate and correctly applied adhesive is only ever gong to be as strong as the surfaces(and "coatings") it's being stuck to.. Perhaps a bit belt'n'braces but having a couple of decent fixings each end of a rail,makes sense to me.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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