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Vacuum solenoid issue


Huskie

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Hi all,

I have an Autotrail motorhome with Ducato 2.3 mj130 engine. Had P0638 fault so replaced throttle body, wiring and vacuum solenoid. P0638 cleared but P0403 (egr circuit malfunction) came up. Put old solenoid back on, no faults but engine idles erratically. Pulling vacuum pipes off solenoid makes no difference but unplugging it improves idling dramatically but brings on P0403. I am currently waiting for a replacement solenoid valve in hope that it will cure the issue but am not convinced it will. The egr is blanked as it was sticking open and couldn’t source the right part. Any advice, thoughts and comments would be greatly appreciated.

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Hello,

 

The first thing to bear in mind is that if the EGR is blanked off, neither the throttle body or solenoid can do their job properly. Get the EGR removed and cleaned if necessary and it should be fine. Problems with these engines are almost never the EGR valve. The other two components will be working very hard to balance the inlet manifold pressure with one arm tied behind their backs. It won't end well.

 

In addition, after fitting a new solenoid or throttle body it is advisable (although not always necessary) to run a procedure using a diagnostic device by the name of 'Re-learn self-learned functions' so that new items can be recognised and adjustments that have been made automatically will be reset.

 

You must also check the pipes to and from the solenoid to make sure that there are no splits in them and that they are not blocked.

 

If after all this there is still a problem; you may have a wiring issue. These can normally be found in the loom that supplies the injectors etc or in a blue connector underneath the fuse box. There are other possible locations for the fault but these are the most common.

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euroserv - 2018-06-28 2:37 PM

 

Hello,

 

The first thing to bear in mind is that if the EGR is blanked off, neither the throttle body or solenoid can do their job properly. Get the EGR removed and cleaned if necessary and it should be fine. Problems with these engines are almost never the EGR valve. The other two components will be working very hard to balance the inlet manifold pressure with one arm tied behind their backs. It won't end well.

 

In addition, after fitting a new solenoid or throttle body it is advisable (although not always necessary) to run a procedure using a diagnostic device by the name of 'Re-learn self-learned functions' so that new items can be recognised and adjustments that have been made automatically will be reset.

 

You must also check the pipes to and from the solenoid to make sure that there are no splits in them and that they are not blocked.

 

If after all this there is still a problem; you may have a wiring issue. These can normally be found in the loom that supplies the injectors etc or in a blue connector underneath the fuse box. There are other possible locations for the fault but these are the most common.

 

Thank you for your advice. I will try de blanking the egr valve. Would much rather just replace it as it was sticking, pretty pricey though. Have checked pipes, all ok. Will check wiring as suggested too. Just been for a spin with solenoid plug out then back in. No noticeable difference. Did notice a little black smoke on hard acceleration both with plug connected and disconnected so looks like I am going to have to check turbo hoses and intercooler as well. Will update post when all checked.

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All is sorted, deblanked the egr as advised, wiring and everything else seemed to be fine. Big improvement when idling and runs well, no black smoke. I must admit I probably wouldn’t have deblanked the egr valve so quickly without the advice given. A massive thank you for your advice.
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You are very welcome. That's what i am here for!

I think that this would be a good item for the magazine, and it may help others that have mistakenly (or been advised in error to) blank off the EGR. If you would not mind, please send your name and address to me by private message. These will obviously not be published but i need your authority to forward this query to the editor. Thanks

Nick

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  • 2 weeks later...
Update: After initial test drives etc, I was happy with the way the MH was running. Just been on a long run approx 160 miles. Initially drove like a dream, probably best it’s ever ran. After I’m not sure how many miles I noticed a puff of black smoke when changing gear, more so when dropping a gear to go up hills etc. Only lasted a second or so. Also noticed fuel consumption was only 21mpg. Normally get 26-29. As the journey progressed I started noticing a rasping sound when accelerating which immediately stopped when took foot off the pedal. This progressively got worse and started to lose power. When trying to accelerate hard there was just no power and the rasping increased. I thought it sounded a bit like a small hole in the exhaust type sound but couldn’t find a leak. Revving the engine whilst stationary didn’t reproduce the sound. There is no CEL on. I am currently at a campsite 160 miles from home. I have pulled off every accessible plug under the bonnet and reconnected them and checked as best I can for damaged wiring etc. Will be moving on tomorrow, so will see how it goes. Fortunately got breakdown recovery cover so not the end of the world. Any ideas of what causes these symptoms would once again be greatly appreciated. Also noticed cruise control kept disconnecting but don’t think it’s related unless some of you more knowledgable folks think otherwise.
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