Bridgender Posted January 25, 2007 Posted January 25, 2007 We purchased our first motorhome in March last year [ A 1999 Peugeot Boxer Autohomes 'Wayfarer', 1.9 HDI Diesel] and have had a wonderful summer exploring South West England, Ireland and then, across the Channel to France, Germany, Luxemburg and Belgium in September. The main worry I've experienced during this first year is the rising temperature guage when driving up hill in only moderately high outside temperatures and while in the inevitable summer traffic queue! I took the 'van in to have the cooling system checked, coolant replaced and although there didn't seem to be a problem, we also changed the thermostat as a precaution. However, although I haven't had a burst pipe of even worse a leak through the head gasket it is worrying to see how the temperature rises in the above conditions. I have looked at the adverts for fitting a second larger fan to the 'van and am toying with the idea of having one fitted before we try the warmer regions of Europe this summer. Has anyone any experience, comment or advise on the idea and more importantly, will it resolve the problem in warmer temperatures?.
tonyishuk Posted January 25, 2007 Posted January 25, 2007 My initial thoughts would be a problem possibly with the radiator core or similar. I would think that it is likely that a Peugeot would be "over cooled" for our climate, bearing in mind that they are produced for a continental market and have to cope with the tempratures of southern europe. Is it over hot ? maybe a faulty guage. Obvious but it happens ! I daresay that enginnering techies will correct me on this. That said, Kenlow produce arange of extra fans spefically for uprating cooling systems ( and by in large good products) Rgds
Dave Newell Posted January 25, 2007 Posted January 25, 2007 Ducato/Boxer temperature guages are notoriously inaccurate. It would be helpful if you could tell us how high the guage goes when climbing these hills. Also does the fan actually cut in? They have been known to seize up due to lack of use. On the face of it if your engine hasn't boiled over yet then you probably don't have a problem but a little more info would help us to help you. D.
Terrytraveller Posted January 25, 2007 Posted January 25, 2007 Hi Huw, Had the same problem myself on a 2001 1.9TD Boxer Autocruise Starfire. I replaced all the thermostats, engine and fan switching thermostats with no real improvements. The MH was less than 6 months old and had covered 6000 miles before the overheating started. The problem started 4 months after the water system was partially drained to effect a modification to the Eberspacher heating system. The engineer refilled the water system using BlueCol not the Peugeot antifreeze. Over the next 4 months the two different antifreezes reacted with each other and partially blocked the very small tubes in the radiator matrix. Flushing the water system, then refilling again with clean water and Radflush, running until the engine was really hot (2000 rpm while static for 40 mins), releasing the bottom hose to allow the water to gush out, then flushing again with clean water. Although you may need to replace the radiator if flushing does not work, NB if water is being ejected from the header tank thats a different problem, probably head gasket allowing gas into the cooling system. Many people have had the overheating problem, the general advice from some people is if both Fans come on regularly its okay, if they do say that - take it from me its not alright, if the radiator is working as it should the second fan will NEVER come on. Some people have wired in a fan overide switch - see http://www.ourwanderer.org/peug2.htm#Heating for some help with this. Since flushing the radiator the temp gauge stays on normal, going up hill or stuck in traffic, the second fan will only come on if I run the engine at 2000 rpm whilst static for 30 to 40 mins, temp is then about 98c at top of radiator. Hope the above helps - Regards Terry
Bridgender Posted January 25, 2007 Author Posted January 25, 2007 Thanks everyone for your comments. Although our MH is nearly seven years old, it had only done 4500 when we bought it last March. It has now done 9000+ miles. As far as I can ascertain there have been no modifications to the cooling system. Yes, the fan does come on but only seems to stay on for a short time. My previous experience of a fan coming on was with a Renault 19 I owned years ago and the fan on that would always come in accurately and stay on until the temperature dropped. That doesn't seem to happen with the 'van. The engine coolant has not overflowed yet and the temperature rises to marginally below the Red area. Worrying to hear that Boxer temperature guages are notoriously inaccurate! Is it worth changing it?
Terrytraveller Posted January 25, 2007 Posted January 25, 2007 Hi Huw, I would definately advise flushing the radiator as a cheaper alternative to replacing parts as I had done, although the work was under warranty so no cost to me. After several years of use, the radiator efficiency must be passed its prime and flushing is a DIY job too. As the first fan is coming on just under the red, it would seem the temp gauge is fairly accurate. Regards Terry
Bridgender Posted January 25, 2007 Author Posted January 25, 2007 Thanks Terry, for your in depth response. I'll certainly try your suggestion and let you know how I get on. On with the cold weather gear, Brrrrrrr! best wishes Huw
Brian Kirby Posted January 26, 2007 Posted January 26, 2007 HuwYou refer to "the fan". Doesn't your van have two fans, side by side? Assuming it does, they should activate sequentially i.e. as the coolant temperature rises the first will come on, and if that doesn't control the temperature rise, the second will engage.As Dave says, check both fans rotate freely (engine off, and cold for this!) by just giving them a spin. If they both spin freely, trace, and check carefully, the connections. It was found that a connector to the second fan on ours had never been connected. Didn't affect the cooling, because those connections were all OK, but it did upset the A/C, because it was a connection from that which had been missed. (The A/C rad is mounted in front of the engine cooling rad and the fans do double duty.)From your description, it sounds as much like an inoperative fan as an obstructed rad, and the wiring is easier to trace/check than flushing the rad! It'll be almost impossible to get the second fan to cut in this weather, though, so actual running tests may have to be carried out by a garage, or await warmer weather!If you do flush, do make sure you put the correct inhibitor back, in the correct strength!
tonyishuk Posted January 26, 2007 Posted January 26, 2007 Maybe a Maplns Visit and get a digital thermometer with an outside sensor which could be temporaly fixed to the radiator header to record the actual temp. MAKE SURE ANY TEMP WIRE IS TIED UP and not finding its way into the fan ! Has to said, but the obvious is sometimes missed :D
Guest peter Posted January 26, 2007 Posted January 26, 2007 If you flush the rad, reverse flush it or it can make it worse.
Bridgender Posted January 29, 2007 Author Posted January 29, 2007 What an excellent service this is. Thanks to everyone who responded to my query. I have now established that I have two fans as you rightly say Brian and I've tried spinning them as you suggested. One spins freely and the other doesn't therefore I assume the one that spins freely has a problem, right? I have tried tracing the wiring back but it enters a loom and I don't have a meter to check with so I guess its back to the Auto electrics shop for them to check it for me. Anyway, many many thanks for all the useful suggestions, your experience is invaluable to novices like me! Regards Huw
Brian Kirby Posted January 29, 2007 Posted January 29, 2007 Bridgender - 2007-01-29 1:07 PM What an excellent service this is. Thanks to everyone who responded to my query. I have now established that I have two fans as you rightly say Brian and I've tried spinning them as you suggested. One spins freely and the other doesn't therefore I assume the one that spins freely has a problem, right? I have tried tracing the wiring back but it enters a loom and I don't have a meter to check with so I guess its back to the Auto electrics shop for them to check it for me. Anyway, many many thanks for all the useful suggestions, your experience is invaluable to novices like me! Regards Huw No Huw, it is the one that doesn't spin that is the problem. It has probably siezed/rusted up and, because of that, is totally inoperative. If it has been getting power, as it should have been when the coolant temp rises, it may have burned out or, if you are lucky, merely blown a fuse. If it can be removed, freed off, and persuaded to work, or is replaced, I think your overheating problem will disappear. If you remove it to free it off, and then decide to bench test it, make sure you have it very solidly restrained, keep your fingers away from the blades, and don't wear a tie or any loose flapping clothing - they're very powerful little beasts and could easily ruin your typing style, or worse!
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