chris Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Hello. We had a nasty bottoming out last November and the rear section of the underneath chasis has bent and starting to rust. My husband wants to remove this back part, straighten it then put it back on. Is this possible and easy to do. It's an alko chasis. No damage to van just the chasis. We do have a long rear overhang on our van. Christine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Can you post a photo? It's otherwise pretty much impossible to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 I have tried but going wrong somewhere as I press submit after selecting photo so it must be too big sorry.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jobboyce Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 I would respectfully suggest that when the chassis was made the steel was STRESSED, when you had the mishap the steel was STRESSED again, when you remove the damaged section and hammer it back to the original shape you will STRESS the steel again which I believe would EQUAL FATIGUE ummm. Safety V cost. If the damaged section can be removed then it may be worth buying a NEW section and fitting that rather than a possible catastrophe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 chris - 2019-02-15 11:32 AM Hello. We had a nasty bottoming out last November and the rear section of the underneath chasis has bent and starting to rust. My husband wants to remove this back part, straighten it then put it back on. Is this possible and easy to do. It's an alko chasis. No damage to van just the chasis. We do have a long rear overhang on our van. Christine Christine I don’t think you’ve ever said whether your Dethleffs Esprit 6810/6811 was the “I” (A-class) version or the “T” (low-profile) version, nor how old the vehicle is. It may not matter unduly with your present enquiry, but the information might still be useful. As Robert (job&boyce) has advised, there’s a risk that attempting to straighten the damaged section of the chassis would badly weaken it. Having said that, if the damaged section were to be replaced rather than straightened, it would still be necessary to remove the damaged section. I’m sure it would be possible to repair your motorhome’s chassis, but how simple it would be to do is quite another matter. If the damaged section is easily accessible and removal just involves unbolting it, then repair/replacement of the bent section should be straightforward. I suggest that, if your husband believes he can remove, straighten and refit the rear section of the chassis, you just let him get on with it (keeping in mind Robert’s caveat). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 just sent an email off to Alko and will wait reply . Also found out where our local service centre is too so will make more enquiries first. Thanks all. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracker Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 Chassis repairs can be a complex art with minor changes to one section resulting in unwanted changes elsewhere and without an accurate jig to set it up on it may well be a bit of guesswork when it is off the van resulting in re-fitting difficulties. If it can be repaired in situ or a section unbolted and replaced so much the better. Getting a detailed quote, and hopefully a bit of guidance, from an Alko expert makes a lot of sense before you start dismantling anything. It may be possible to have the damage and wheel alignment checked and if OK and not in danger of further damage just leave it be and live with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monique.hubrechtsgm Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Depend on damage. Of your hit on the back of your overhang. Small deformations can be formed back in to shape and coated black to protect the original zinc galva. Or replace the bolted on rear overhang. Are waste water tanks and piping damaged? Are your plastic rear parts damaged ? That can take up to six months to receive parts according a club member on a new motorhome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 No its only the back strip across the van. Nothing else marked thankfully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 The usual arrangement is to have the AL-KO AMC chassis go right to the rear of the motorhome (upper picture below) or for there to be a bolted-on extension (lower photo). In either case, if it’s only the rearmost cross-member that’s damaged and the side-members it’s attached to are unaffected, provided that your husband can remove the cross-member, then straighten it and (as Monique advises) treat/protect the rusted area, there should be little risk of subsequent problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Thank you Derek. I always admire your knowledge. I think ours might be the bottom photo. Will look later. An engineer on our street has taken a look at it too and said it can be unnolted and removed easily. I am more reasured now. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monique.hubrechtsgm Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 The photos of Derek are related to a up going rear end, and 22 cm down going. The last typical used for the And garage.Please note the difference in ground clearance (GC) Also a low frame AL- KO chassis is pictured here. But has no influence on the back-end.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 Thankyou everyone. The job is done. Reveresed up chocks and it was easy to unbolt and slide out the rear part which was the same as Derek Uzell showed in his second photo. The piece has been cleaned and repainted and put back today. it looks very smart now. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monique.hubrechtsgm Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 Glad to hear this. And have some one on the back to avoid the problem again. Did you noticed the jacking point of the rear axle near the rear end? And do not forget to grease your axle every year. You may ask me anything about a alko AMC axle, and air suspension on the rear. Did you have a low frame or high frame. A high frame is a strange bird against the low frame. Any questions welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 Thanks very much for the information. The chassis we have is the second one on Derek uzells posting. It is very low down and we are very aware going over speed bump's and the inevitable ferry disembarking. I have past on the info of greasing the Axle to my husband and he now plans to check that out ASAP. Thanks very much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 This link describes greasing a motorhome’s AL-KO rear axle http://www.motorhometour.co.uk/blogs/miscellaneous/greasing-lubricating-al-ko-rear-chassis-motorhome/ AL-KO’s advice is shown on the attached file. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 From my own experience in greasing the AlKo rear axle on our Exsis-I, I can add a couple of comments. First, as there are grease nipples on both ends of the axle, there is no great need to jack up both sides and insert axle stands to grease it. Jacking one side and inserting just one axle stand leaves one wheel on terra firma so, with the handbrake firmly applied, and the front wheels securely chocked, the van is IMO more stable than with the whole rear airborne on axle stands. Ideally, first securely chock the front on both sides, then release the handbrake, and then jack the van up (as the rear is raised the trailing arm on that side rotates, meaning that the wheelbase on that side shortens, which seems to create a degree of stress across the rear axle if the handbrake is on). Then, when the first wheel is jacked clear of the ground, insert the axle stand, lower the van onto this, and then firmly apply the handbrake before getting under the van. Once that side is greased, jack up slightly to relieve the weight on the axle stand, remove it, release the handbrake, lower the van back to the ground, and then go to side two and repeat. It is a bit of a faff, but this routine seemed to me the safest way to do the job. The important point is that each side must be greased with the wheel on that side clear of the ground, so that there is no load on the axle bushes while the greasing is carried out. Stick to 5 - 7 pumps of the grease gun. No grease should exude from around the trailing arm swivel bearing. The rear axle should bot be filled with grease! Second, on advice from Alan Sanders at AlKo UK, it is the type of grease that is important, not the make. In his words: "A high melting point lithium grease can be used. Our local Fiat Dealer use COMMA LM that should be available from most motor factors." The thing to look for is "high melting point lithium". The grease is stiffish, because the load is largely static, not rotational, as in a wheel bearing. Hope this helps a bit. But remember, any vehicle with one wheel off the ground is potentially unstable - so proceed with care. Failing the above, you should find your Fiat Professional garage will do the rear axle greasing at a nominal extra cost, though you may need to show them where the grease nipples are, and explain what grease is required. This assumes that they still have a grease gun somewhere - many no longer do! Personally, I'd be a little wary of anyone doing this with a pressurised gun, as it is almost impossible to gauge how much grease has been applied. Blown grease seals then beckon! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monique.hubrechtsgm Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 The pictures above is what AL-KO said in their manual. But one wheel off L/R is a good more easy alternative agreed by them. Instead of the amount of grease pump until some grease comes out of the visible outer mud seal. There are two seals each end, a inner to block the grease and the outer mud seal. But it unavoidable that some end up in the tube. You have two independent axle stub ends there and three torsion bars. The cheapest grease free option is the ALC level controller for 1500 euro. and air suspension for 5000 euro. One axle speaking.. These stub ends replace one of the two bearing bush for a a outer needle bearing sealed. and no lubrication nipples Like on train axles nowadays. Why they do not standard fit a grease free is a mystery. They claim load in standard version of the two bushes each end. The options have a different load pattern. But if you do not grease the torsion bars twist and brake like a cannon ball sound.And you can not drive save anymore. The same happens on air suspension when one of your air balloons are ruptured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monique.hubrechtsgm Posted March 2, 2019 Share Posted March 2, 2019 And than run over a lot of road bumps to get the grease around the bushes.. (lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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