bjphillips Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Ive got to get my drive extended to 1 side to accomodate my motorhome GVW 3850kg.Has anyone got any advice so that I get the job done properly by a local contractor.He has promised to get the spec right because he admits to only laying drives to suit the average cars never having to do one to take so much weight as this.The area has to be in block paving to match the existing driveway (that is the brick sized blocks).Living now in S lincs the ground is fairly soft to quite a depth, I pushed 6mm rods in as markers to about 15" quite easily. (?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 What specification is the contractor offering? You need a depth of hardcore or, preferably, crushed stone such as type 2 roadbase material. This needs topping with sand and the blocks sit on the sand. If the pieces of hardcore are too large it will leave gaps the sand will wash into, and the blockwork will settle unevenly. That is why the type 2 is better. Kiln dried sand is then brushed into the joints and provides perfectly adequate jointing without cement.If you find out what make and type the blocks will be, you can contact the maker for an information sheet on the product, and how to lay it. If unsure, go to your local heavyside builders merchant and pick up a few data sheets for block pavings (Marley, Marshalls etc). If in doubt, speak to the manufacturer's technical department and ask if they'd recommend anything different for your circumstances. When you get that information, tell your contractor that is how you want them laid, and if he asks for any more money he wasn't going to give you a proper job anyhow, so go and get two other quotes from two different firms, against exactly the same spec. Then choose the lowest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Newell Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Hi BJ, the only way you'll stop block paving sinking under the weight of a large motorhome is to put a concrete base underneath it. Anything less will sink over time in areas local to the wheels. The area will need to be dug out to quite a depth and a good six inch layer of compacted hardcore put in. On top of that should be at least a two inch layer of compacted sand before a four inch thickness of concrete is applied. Once that's fully cured the block paviours can be layed on a thin sand bed. I'm not a builder but I've worked in the building industry occasionally and I have put a few drives down. Anything heavier than a standard car will cause local compression on block paviours unless there is a very stable base beneath them. D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peedee Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 It generally only sinks where you park it. I do not find this a problem. If it worries you you could just relevel it now and again. peedee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Frank Wilkinson Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 It's a pity that you have to match existing areas because otherwise you could consider imprinted concrete.I had my drive done with this method fifteen years ago and it's been absolutely superb. Mine is done as cobbles and most people think that they are real cobbles. In that time I've had to recoat it once. This is done to preserve the glossy, black appearance.For those not familiar with this method, concrete is poured onto the drive in small sections and then, before it dries, it is imprinted with what can only be described as a large waffle iron. This imprints the image of cobbles or block paving and finally, a coating is washed on to the drive to colour it.There are no cracks for weeds to grow, no movement of bricks or flags and it looks superb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olley Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Franks been lucky with his pattern impregnated concrete, theirs an awful lot of cowboys out there doing this. with very poor long term results. for block paving I would dig down deep enough to put in 6" of hoggin, and then 4" of drylene with the blocks on top. If you use concrete under your blocks the water which peculates down the block joints has nowhere to go, drylene on the other hand is porous and allows the water to drain away. This how I did mine, but instead of blocks I finished it of with about 1" of pea shingle, (couldn't afford blocks. :-( ) So far its been unaffected by my 9 tonne RV running over it. Olley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest starspirit Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 You could just park the van wheels on paving slabs or even squares or circles of strong wood (wood might move with wind when unloaded) to spread the load? Cheap, effective, simple - just like me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Or, try this link and look for the section on laying. http://www.pavingexpert.com/blocks2.htmMight be worth giving them a ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bazza454 Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Hi BJ, I have a block paving drive and have parked coachbuilt motorhomes on it for a number of years without sinking or any other problems. Marshalls are the main producer and they can advise local stockist and installer. Check out their website - http://www.marshalls.co.uk/transform/services/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest peter Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Why not do two strips of concrete where wheels are and the rest in normal block paving. No need for whole area to be to heavyweight standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel E Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Our own drive is blocks laid on sand on top of concrete on top of hardcore. So far, no problems in 4 years. But for the motorhome, we used a simpler (and a lot cheaper) method, on the basis that we'd rather spend money on the motorhome and our tavels rather than hard standing! We dug out an area, compacted about 3 to 4 inches of granite clippings as hardcore, put down membrane and topped it all off with about 2 to 3 inches of 20mmm gravel. It's held in place at one side by the driveway and along the other by substiture railway sleepers (you can buy pressure impregnated balks of timber at about £8 or so for a 6 foot length of 8" x 4" - we strapped them together with screwed plates and painted them with preserver to give some colour. When the 'van's not there, it looks like an intentional piece of 'easy maintenance' garden and we spread a few potted plants around. The whole job took about 1.5 days by me and management. Reckon it shouldn't even take you that long to do the widening strip. Then drive the motorhome to France and have a few superb, gourmet meals using the dosh you've saved. Mel E ==== Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest starspirit Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Ah Mel - my two favourite words in close harmony - 'dosh' & 'saved'! Anyone can chuck money at any problem but it takes real class to go on finding low cost effective solutions. Shame the same can't be said about changing vans - but at least the dosh saved in other ways helps pay for the next leviathon. Many a mickle maks a muckle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maggyd Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 We have a seperate block paved area where we park our motorhome and my BH has had to lift an area just on one side which had a slight dip he justs lifts and builds up again with sharp sand. We didnt lay this other short drive it was there when we moved in so knowing what you are parking there I would m ake sure it is done adequately in the beginning it will save a lot of work later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bil h Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 4 inches of concrete, nothing less. If you lay loose blocks and the sides are not secured they'll move into next doors garden in three years !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Not strictly necessary to lay the blocks on concrete to stop them migrating sideways. Get advice from the block manufacturer. It will depend, in part, on the nature of your soil. What stops them going sideways is a concrete haunching down each side of the block paved area. Unless this is done, thermal expansion and frost just progressively push them out, even if on sand on concrete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjphillips Posted February 21, 2007 Author Share Posted February 21, 2007 What a response in just 2 nights, thanks to all & keep em coming I'm learning a lot !! ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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