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Old Auto-Trail


NickandChris

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Hi all, Having posted this last week and lost it all when the system burped, apologies to people who may have already read and replied to this.

Having just purchased a 1992 Auto-Trail Apache we'd be very interested to hear from anyone with knowledge of these older classics. Any tips or modifications carried out, points to watch out for etc. We have a leak/damp at the front of the overcab bed (front windows of luton?) The base vehicle (Mercedes 208D) seems in good condition having only done 18,000 miles although the brakes seem to come on and off as if we've got ABS (A sort of pumping action). We plan to keep the vehicle for a long time so don't mind splashing a bit of cash if any members have positive views on such things as adding power steering or a Turbo? Worthwhile? There are other issues/slight probs we can see will need attention but won't go on as this is our first post to guage if there is any interest or help out there!

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Know little about Autotrail, though my 'van is a 1992 too.

 

You need to get the brakes fixed! It sounds like you may have a lump of rust on a disc or drum.

 

If the van has been standing for a long while before you bought it this is very likely. Every time the pad or shoe passes the lump of rust it will 'kick' giving the ABS impression.

 

Hope you enjoy your old 'classic' ........... well, it's only 15 years!

 

Harvey

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I've just sold my 1989 Apache on a Merc 207D. Had it for 8 years and covered approx 50,000 miles, previous owner had for 10 years with roughly the same mileage. We've both really enjoyed the vehicle, certainly it was well screwed together. The more miles we did the better it seemed to go!

 

Had new discs and pads when I purchased it and I 've had a siezed piston in one of the calipers recently and new pads again for the MOT. Does the brake warning light come on? or flick on and off? mine did.

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Thanks for that Harvey and Marvin, I've got it booked in next week for a service and check over. The brake warning light doesn't come on but the mechanic confirmed what Harvey thought, in that it was probably a lump of rust on the discs. I think it must have been parked up for long periods with only 18,000 miles on it. The engine just purrs like a new one and once you get it going it runs nicely at 60mph (on the flat though), hence the thought of investing in a Turbo. Also be interested to hear if anyone has put wheels and 225 tyres from a 310 on a 208 and if this is possible. Any idea what MPG you used to get out of your Apache Marvin?
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I did consider turbo and power steering for mine, but after the first six months or so I simply got used to both aspects. Just slower and heavier. However these 2 reasons are the principal reasons for me selling and moving on to another vehicle. The lack of power steering now prevents my wife driving and both of us would now like to be travelling a bit quicker.

 

I would suggest trying it for a while and if you still want to spend the cash....but just remember the brakes and suspension were designed to deal with the power you currently have and if you want to run a "classic" maybe keep it original.

 

I do know of someone who fitted a turbo on a Bremen Merc and then found the gear ratios where not right to cope with the extra power and fitted larger wheels and tyres.

 

I changed the tyres fron Mich XCA's to Mich Agilis and these are much better when parking etc.

 

Fuel, never ran a check on fuel consumption but used to get a little less than 300 miles to a full tank of diesel.

 

Trust this helps

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Hello NickandChris, as your Autotrail is going 'in' for a check over, get that big luton roof checked for damp with a 'sensor type' damp meter, not the 'probe type' by a professional technician as bad water ingress into that big roof can cost up to one and a half thousand quid to have it put right properly as the water can come to rest in all those frames and do a lot of damage if left for a long period. Readings between 0 to 15% no cause for concern, but 15% to 20% require further investigation and a recheck in three months. Readings greater than 20% will identify areas needing remedial work. When readings go above 30% structural damage may be occurring and deterioration is inevitable. Don't want to worry you but get it checked before it gets out of hand. If frames need replacing the outer skin usually has to be taken off, that takes time, and time is expesive. If Dave Newell reads this he will probabley come up with some good advise, he is an expert in this sort of thing.
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I used to own an F-reg AutoTrail Cherokee, also on a Merc 208D. It was hopelesssly underpowered - or rather, overbodied: the fault lay with AutoTrail, not Mercedes.

 

One day I happened to have in the pitch next to me an almost identical vehicle. The owner and I bewailed the gutlessness of our vehicles, and he said his had been particularly problematic as he needed to tow a large boat.

 

He had a turbo fitted, and this had transformed the performance but had produced a number of knock-on effects: e.g. the radiator was not man enough to handle the extra heat. (Of course it is possible that it was the weight of the boat that was the final straw.)

 

Anyway, it ended up costing him more than double what he had expected to pay.

 

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Thanks to Marvin, Ranger and Bill for the advice which is noted and filed. The vehicle is going into the workshop on wednesday for the mechanicals. Just need to find someone to look at the bodywork/ damp prob now. Any advice where to go around the South West? Someone mentioned Dave Newell? Is he in business in that line of work does anyone know?
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Hi NickandChris, when Ranger said I'm an expert in the field of damp and water ingress problems it was because last year I completely re-skinned my own 1990 Highwayman due to water ingress rotting the framework out.

 

I am in business and although damp repairs are not my normal line of work I could handle smaller damp problems. I wouldn't take on a job as big as my own for a customer because I don't have the manpower being a one man band. My own was carried out over a 9 month period and material costs were over £2000 but we did make quite a few improvements at the same time which account for some of that cost.

 

D.

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