Way2Go Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Good morning,We went om a spending spree yesterday in anticipation on our new delivery on Thursday. On our list was a set of jump leads as we thought it might be of benefit to us or other people on site.We were surprised at the variety and prices. Having picked up the cheapest (as we really don't anticipate having to use them) we then saw a range 'by engine size' with the price reflecting the increased engine size.The only difference we could see was that the cable got thicker as the engine size increased. That seems logical but do we really need to pay <> £23 for jump leads? The bog standard car set only only cost £3.99.Our vehicle will be a 2297cc dieselSounds like one for the teckies if any of them are still talking to us :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Engine size is reflected it the starting current required. The cable size required is therefore larger if more current is required. I once measure the starting current of an old car, 1400CC engine, initial kick about 250 amps falling to just over 100 amps. It was a petrol engine and I disconnected the coil so the engine would not start. BUT Diesel engines have a compression ratio of nearly double that of a petrol engine so starting currents will be significanlty more for a diesel. Also jump leads designed for commercial vehicles would be expected to be more durable as well. So yes, its logical. Quality commercial jump leads would use welding cable and clips on the end of the type found on welding equipment. However micky mouse jump leads are better than none but don,t be supprised if you see the plastic melt off the cables when you are jump starting an Antar ! Price? - As much as the retailer can get away with. Does that put things in perspective? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Way2Go Posted March 25, 2007 Author Share Posted March 25, 2007 Very informative Clive, many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chas Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Although I certainly am no expert on this particular problem of jump leads, I do remember an article I read once , that jump leads can damage the alternator of the donor vehicle. Perhaps this problem is now corrected on modern alternators, something to do with the diodes I think. Is this true anyone ? chas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark lambert Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Buy a good quality set, just in case. You may not need them, but you will then have a good set of leads that you can lend someone else when there vehicle wont start, if your that way inclined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Way2Go Posted March 25, 2007 Author Share Posted March 25, 2007 mark lambert - 2007-03-25 9:23 AM . . . but you will then have a good set of leads that you can lend someone else when there vehicle wont start, if your that way inclined. Yes, that was the intention Mark. Either for us to be jumped (ohh er mrs) or to help a fellow camper in trouble. We have provided such support on a few occasions when we were caravanning. Just seems a nice thing to do really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest starspirit Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Length, as ever, is important too because it is not always easy to get recalcitrant 3 tonne vehicles with a flat battery to a convenient point. I made my jump leads for big diesel engined fishing boat use about 30 years ago. I bought 20 feet each of red and black heavy duty battery cable and four heavy welding clamps from a commercial motor factor and bolted and soldered the leads to the clamps. The weak point of any jump leads are the terminals, both battery to clamp and clamp to lead, so all good solid connections are important. Check for any heat during use as heat means resistance and thereby reduced current transmission. They don't often see daylight these days but have been stalwart companions many times over the years and will never wear out or melt or fail to work but they can be a bit of a handful due to the weight and nature of the heavy duty cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Way2Go Posted March 25, 2007 Author Share Posted March 25, 2007 Some good tips there.I've gone a search on Google and eBay and are finding it difficult to compare like with like.Some talk about amps, some talk about thickness in mm2, all of them seem to be called heavy duty.I've come to the conclusion I'll propably need Light Commercial <>25mm cables in the reagion of <>300amps at least 3m long if not longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 I've found in the past the best procedure is to connect the leads and rev the donor vehicle for some time before even trying to start vehicle, the longer the better as you will be charging the dead battery which will assist in the starting. However always be very very carefull when disconnecting the leads as I have seen many a battery explode due to the gases generated igniting from a spark from disconnecting the lead. regards Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrytraveller Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Hi W2G, I have a Car to Car battery charger/jump lead similar to this http://tinyurl.com/3c86lz also http://tinyurl.com/2jzmx7 . We also have a solar panel charging the leisure battery. We are able to top up the car battery from the leisure battery using this type of gadget. The gadget only outputs around two amps to the 'depleted' battery, so it does take some time before you are able to start the target vehicle, although the gadget instructions, advises running the engine of the donor vehicle for 5 mins before attempting to start the target vehicle. I have only used it to charge my vehicle battery, and usually leave it connected for 5 to10 daylight hours when we have used the vehicle battery for leisure purposes the night before. Regards Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Way2Go Posted March 25, 2007 Author Share Posted March 25, 2007 Interesting thought Terry. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Way2Go - 2007-03-25 11:29 AMSome good tips there.I've gone a search on Google and eBay and are finding it difficult to compare like with like.Some talk about amps, some talk about thickness in mm2, all of them seem to be called heavy duty.I've come to the conclusion I'll propably need Light Commercial <>25mm cables in the reagion of <>300amps at least 3m long if not longer.I agree, 25mmsq is a good balance between weight and usefullness. 3M is about the minimum length you can get away with, providing the vehicle with the flat battery is not with its nose in a corner. Welding cable uses a much higher temperature rated insulation that the cheaper PVC.My cables are 35 mm sq as I already had the cable. But a tad cumbersome.C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Way2Go Posted March 25, 2007 Author Share Posted March 25, 2007 Phew!! After a lot of searching I've managed to get a set of jump leads/booster cables on eBay. Taken a lot of time and a lot of learning so MANY thanks to all contributors to this thread. Thank you.Out of intereset I've bought:-"Booster cables in carry case for petrol engines up to 5000cc, diesel engines up to 3500cc. 3.5m length, 25mm heavy duty copper cables with tough insulated colour coded clamps.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest starspirit Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 So you just jumped in and charged ahead with that leading purchase and when you clamp your mitts on the current items I hope they pass the acid test and your little eyes will light up with pleasure and get you started on a long and happy connection together. Or summat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Way2Go Posted March 25, 2007 Author Share Posted March 25, 2007 Ha Ha . . . my purchase with Boostered by the Lead from some of the contributers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tp002c784tp002c784tp Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Hi Way2Go Did you not think of buying a battery jump starter instead of jump leads the advantages are you can use it as a temp. battery for any twelve volt systems most of them have a 900amp boost and you would also have a electric commpresser for your tyres and a small twelve volt light can be charged by mains or your cigar plug whilst driving don't take up much room and you can get them for about twenty five quid from Aldi or Lidl *-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest starspirit Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 .....................and when it goes flat do you need mains to recharge it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Way2Go Posted March 25, 2007 Author Share Posted March 25, 2007 tp002c784tp002c784tp - 2007-03-25 7:13 PM Hi Way2Go Did you not think of buying a battery jump starter instead of jump leads . . . . GO AWAY!!!Only joking. Thanks for the input and I think I'll check that way out. I wasn't sure how well they performed and how much space they took up.I think it's also a case of "Umm, need to start the camper, need jump leads". But at least we won't have a "Wireless!!".I'll check it out, thanks ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 I suppose the CURRENT thinking on this topic will GENERATE even more POTENTIAL for comment. At least once the engine has been started you can get OHM and CHARGE the battery properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest starspirit Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 Clive you can be such a bright spark when you aren't being a shocker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest peter Posted March 25, 2007 Share Posted March 25, 2007 chas - 2007-03-25 9:20 AM Although I certainly am no expert on this particular problem of jump leads, I do remember an article I read once , that jump leads can damage the alternator of the donor vehicle. Perhaps this problem is now corrected on modern alternators, something to do with the diodes I think. Is this true anyone ? chasOnly if you connect them the wrong way round. Reverse polarity = new alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tp002c784tp002c784tp Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Hi Starsprit When it goes flat you charge it from your Cigar Lighter when you are running after you have started your vehicle Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Just to put my twopeneth worth in, for those who don't know, when connecting jump leads its best to connect each in turn, i.e. conect black lead to earth on one vehicle then to earth of other, then connect red to live on each in turn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brambles Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Colin, I always prefer to connect the red lead 1st. My thought is if I connect the black 1st (both ends) and drop the red clip it only has to touch any bit of metal and oops! Doing red 1st, and then black means if I drop a clip on the black lead it will only generate a small spark. Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Just so long as you don't do as my boss, pull both leads off one vehicle and throw them on ground *-) he never has been much good with electrics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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