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electronic control panel accuracy


Tanskavan

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Hi,

I have reason to doubt the acuracy of Fresh Water/Waste Water levels indicated on the electronic control panelof my Bessie 760. As the fresh water reduces by 25%, the Waste Water still displays 0%. This is enhance by the fact that after a re-fill (checking ths water level via the inspection cap) the gauge states 75% full. Is this a common fault? can it be re-calibated? or which part gereally is at fault -the sender unit or the electronic data display?

Cheers

 

Tony

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Guest starspirit

I've never had a van yet where the water level gauge is not a waste of time.

 

The best way is to use the van normally from a full tank start until it runs out and then subtract a day to determine how often you need to refill.

 

It's always worked for us as it is simple cheap and effective - just like me.

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clever spirit!

 

our fresh water lasts for three days, so us fills every two days sos not to run out. That means after six days camping we can go three days without filling - like a mini holiday really with no need to move the van.

 

its easy when you knws how.

 

fred

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Hi Tony,

 

It depends on the system you have whether or not you can calibrate yourself, on my sisters Autosleeper the meter can be calibrated when the tank is full by rotating a small button, situated next to the dial.

 

My last MH had four metal buttons inserted through the tank vertical wall, as water covered each button the dial needle would go further up the scale indicating tank status. When it became inaccurate, cleaning off the buttons in the tank through the inspection hatch cured the inaccuracy. The buttons are electrical contacts for the meter as you probably know.

 

The current MH has three probes (sensors) dangling from the top of the tank, I clean these off every time I carry out a habitation service/inspection, about twice a year and have no problems so far. The accuracy is quite good, a full reading occurs just before the overflow starts, empty is indicated when there is around a gallon of water left to draw from the tank.

 

If you have the long needle type probes positioned inside the top of the tank and you have an inspection hatch from which you can see them, you should be able to gauge the depth of water required to reach each probe, and therefore note just how much water is required to reach each mark on the dial.

 

Regards Terry

 

PS If you still have problems after cleaning the probes, you will find connectors going to and from the sensors and/or control box, remove the connectors and then re-seat them a few times. The system relies on resistance, high resistance equals no water usually, so it could be a connectivity problem you are experiencing

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Guest starspirit

The trouble with calibrating the needle is that when you adjust it for full it can often show a quarter full reading when the tank is empty - and vice versa if you set the needle when empty.

You could try putting two gallons into an empty tank and then setting the needle to empty (on level ground) and by then ignoring every other reading you will at least know when you need water?

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By experience, if the quarter full light is off, fill it up,

if the three quarter light is on, probably too full !

 

I watched the tank fill this year (had a little problem after winterising the system) Depth in the tank bore no relation to the level shown on the panel ( 4 LEDs) .

 

& I doubt very much if the LEDs related to volume as opposed to depth.

 

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Guest starspirit
As the tank fills the water is swirling about and may give false readings as opposed to when the water is still?
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