Godolphin Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 Autotrail cheyenne 634 2000. no green light when switched to mains operation. Power to all other outlets. Is there a hidden fuse anywhere. Or has anyone got any ideas what to look for please. had Van 4 yrs fantastic motorhome. this is my first serious problem. fridge OK on 12V and gas. (!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagey Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 hi there. ive got a 2001 cheyenne 630 which i would think has a different layout but yes there is a fused switch on mine..Next to my fridge is a 3 drawer set and a dummy at the bottom if you pull it open there is the switch. what layout do you have is yours an end kitchen? Pagey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred grant Posted June 23, 2007 Share Posted June 23, 2007 God, don't you mean you as a TWO-way frigde me andsome?? frigid fred Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godolphin Posted June 24, 2007 Author Share Posted June 24, 2007 Problem solved. My isolator switch in the cupboard under the sink unit is fused but it in an awkward position to see the fuse holder in the cover moulding. Fuse blown! many thanks for replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Godolphin - 2007-06-24 9:30 AM Problem solved. My isolator switch in the cupboard under the sink unit is fused but it in an awkward position to see the fuse holder in the cover moulding. Fuse blown! many thanks for replies. Then I suggest you check the reason for the blown fuse! It may have become tired, but correctly rated fuses should last almost indefinately. Therefore, it is likely something has caused an overload. Either some other consumer has been connected through this fuse, causing an overload, or the wiring has been "shorted" by something. That something just might be the mains heater element on the fridge failing, but could be a nail or staple having been put through the wire. If the replacement fuse holds up when power is reinstated you can probably discount wiring damage as the cause, but the working of the mains element well might be worth checking. If that is OK, try checking all the connections and terminals along the fridge circuit just in case something has worked loose. Turn off first, though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godolphin Posted June 24, 2007 Author Share Posted June 24, 2007 thanks Brian for taking the time to add your thoughts. the fuse was only 3 amps- I've replaced it with a 5 amp. the fridge is rated @ 125 watts after all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davenewellhome Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 "the fuse was only 3 amps- I've replaced it with a 5 amp. the fridge is rated @ 125 watts after all." Excuse me? 125 Watts at 230 Volts is only half an Amp. Why would you replace a 3 Amp fuse with a higher rating on this basis? Your fuse blew because of a fault, almost certainly. NOT because the fuse was rated too low! D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin r c Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Quite correct .230 /125 =0.5. ie stick a 3 amp in and try that. never use an over rated fuse to "cure" a fault. Cheers martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Urgent. Peter, your van's about to catch fire! That fuse is only there to protect the wiring. By uprating the fuse to prevent it blowing, you have probably now overloaded the wiring downstream from the fuse. Your 3A fuse could pass 230V x 3A = 690W. Your 5A fuse can now pass 230V x 5A = 1150W.Your 125W fridge, as Dave says, draws approximately 0.5A at 230V.So, to blow that 3A fuse, something was drawing an additional 600W, or more. Upsizing may be OK for the fuse, but if the wiring was sparingly sized, the cable run from the fuse may now be overloaded and getting warm! You need to get to the bottom of this so turn off, and check that wiring, pronto!However, do first try putting a 3A fuse back in, and see if that holds up. If it does, try running the fridge on 230V power. If, after an hour or so, nothing is cooling down and you can't detect any warmth from the top fridge vent - provided the 3A fuse is still intact - I think your mains heating element on the fridge may just have failed, causing a momentary power surge and taking the fuse with it. If so, the element can be replaced, so you won't need a new fridge! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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