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damp in my elddis 320


andyduk1

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Andy really sorry not enough info is it a Coach build overcab is it a profile build ?. You may have crack in the roof you may have a crack in the joint .

 

Just because it ends up in that corner it doesnt mean that it is coming from there it could be some distance away and running in a cavity .Obviously people will try to help with it .

Have you been on top to check ?

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hi , sorry i should have said it was a coach built , yes been on top and no damage , my only line of thought is that there is a trim around the corner and up towards the roof then it turns to under the window on the bit above the cab , do you know if these can leak or are they ther for protection only.
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I know its not much help but I would of thought that they were there because that is where the joins are.

 

Well its getting in somewhere are they all still stuck in place ?.

They are not there for protection only IMHO they are there because of the joins.

 

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Andy being honest I do not but if you stick around until later there are people on here that do know and the correct products to help you .

 

I,m sorry but really have not been any help stick around a few of the others are not home from work yet ..& good luck

 

Anyone help this guy please

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If the aluminium trim is screwed on, take out the screws, take off the trim clean off all the old dried up sealent, refit the trim with new sealant, and you should of solved the problem. Long job for a dry day, better if you can get uder cover of course. When removing the trim remove upwards until you find the leak, and try not to bend it. You may have to remove very long strips, but don't worry as in the end you will cure the leak. Thankfully I don't have that problem any more, as I now have an Autosleeper Legend, Monocoque construction fibre glass 'van body, no joints, no wood frames. Best of luck, while you are at it check your skylights too. An easy way out may be by useing Captain Tolly's Creeping Crack Sealer. Do what it sez on the instructions.
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If you're gonna do as Ranger recommends, maybe a couple of other things to include too:

 

Ensure that ALL the screws they've used are stainless steel - check them all as you remove them, don't trust that they are. It will save you a lot of grief in years to come.

 

Ensure there is plenty of sealant in and around every screwhole, and that you've applied enough so that it squishes out when you replace and tighten the screws - to ensure a fully watertight seal.

 

 

 

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Yes! go along with the little extras that BGD mentioned, and use a non drying sealant, that might sound daft, but it allows you to tighten up a bit more later on. Ask your dealer where you buy your sealant, and use the same sealant that they use in their work shop for that particular job. Don't try the one that comes between two strips of grease proof paper, it is an excelent seal, but a 'pain in the butt' to use. Keep us all informed on progress so others can gain by your experiences.........
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