KEEPING DAMP OUT

[afandy]

Hi....Many thanks for your advice on previous occasions...Just wonder what youd recommend ...besides a heater is there crystals of some sort that would work...Andy

[Guest peter]

Don't allow it in to start with and make sure you have good ventilation. My boat is never heated in winter storage outside and is never damp, because it is well ventilated. Poor air flow is a sure way to encourage mould growth. My M/H is heated in the Winter with a 13 Amp plug in thermostat set at 5 Degrees C into this is pluged a Fan heater. Just to stop freezing for when we occasionally use it this time of year. We also have clothes and cushions in there.

[Mike P]

Hi Andy,

We use a smal dehumidifier but you need a mains hook-up for that.

The crystals most commonly sold for moisture absorption (usually suspended above a small trough in a plastic colander type arrangement) are calcium chloride, they're so hygroscopic that they dissolve in their own water of crystallisation (hence the trough underneath). They are very efficient but the downside is that the liquid so produced is quite acidic, so any spillage can cause a problem.

A safer alternative would be silica gel granules (same stuff as you get in little sachets in electronic equipment packaging). You can buy this from laboratory suppliers in large granule form, (about the same size as the large sugar granules you get in posh coffee shops), with an indicator incorporated. When it's dry it's blue, gradually turning pink as it absorbs moisture. It can then be regenerated by putting it in a baking tray in the oven at 150C for about 30 minutes and can be reused ad infinitum.

I kg in an open tray used to do the job in our old Sprite Major years ago.

Hope this helps

Mike P

[Basil]

I would suggest a Protec cover it allows the moisture to breathe out and stops any more from getting in. We have no problems at all with damp and it always seems warmer than outside in there.

 

Bas

[Guest peter]

But surely the skin of the M/H should be waterproof in the first place Basil?. I thought Protec covers were primarily to keep it clean. IMHO if you need a cover to keep damp, out you either have a leaky van or poor ventilation. Much better to sort this than disguise it with a cover.

[Basil]

I'm sure your right, but I can only say that the atmosphere inside the van in winter is both warmer and less damp than before we used the cover. Regular damp checks are carried out and there is no indication of leaks and the usual ventilation is open at all times. However there is a definate improvement in both temperature and air quality.

 

Bas

[yesmad]

The most economical way is to place bowls of salt around your m/h, this will draw all moisture out of the air, make sure you empty the bowls of the water regular though.

[davoscar]

 

We use a product we found on our local market stall.  It is called  "Kontrol Krystals" comes with plastic two part container - chemicals sit in top part and as moisture is collected it gathers in lower part. The chemical is Calcium Chloride which absorbs water naturally. It worked quite well over the winter period last year - we had two one in the main area and one in the loo compartment.  David

 

[jonimac]

Another good way is to but a motorhome with the windows fitted the correct way and not upside down. Honest it's true. My n/side sliding window behind the cab was fitted upside down with the 3 drain slots at the top. Rained in didn't it. Anyway, fixed by Barron's NW and am now awaiting the correct window leaf for the n/side. Luckily it's not damp thought the upholstery got soaked. Barrons removed the stains to be fair to them. Not an encouraging start for a virgin motorhomer eh?

 

Keep smiling. :-D

[Vernon B]

Sorry to say that I don't think any of these suggestions are convincing. What I'm finding at the moment is that with relative humidity running at 80%+ the only way to counter damp is to use a fair amount of constant heat and unfortunately that don't come cheap. In these situations creating more ventilation simply introduces more damp air - more damp air for those already soaked crystals or over worked humidifiers to deal with.

 

I seem to be experiencing more of this over the last few years. Dunno if its a side effect of global warming or if the soft furnishings in this 'van tend to be more prone to absorbing moisture. OK I know you should take them out of the 'van but they take up a lot of room in the house and make it a pain when you want to hit the road at the drop of the hat.

 

Perhaps full timing is the only answer.

 

Vernon

 

 

[tonyishuk]

Continual venting ?

 

http://www.solarshop.co.uk/solar-powered-ventilation.htm

 

Seems a sensible idea and no drain on the leaisure batteries or wiring to worry about.

 

Rgds

[trooper]

I have used a small dehumidifier for about 10 years, we leave things in the M/H, and it never feels damp, in fact people have remarked how dry our furnishings feels, in the right conditions I can get over a gallon in a week, pos some from outside, I would definately not use salt or any other corosive substance, have you seen what happens to metal near the sea.

Regards

[Rayjsj]

If you have a mains supply, no problem, (1) a Dehumidifier with the outlet into the shower tray and your waste tank tap left open. (2) an oil filled radiator left on a low heat on a timer plug.

Without mains power,I used to use silica gel bags, but you do need a lot for it to work properly.

I used to save all the bags that came packed with the Mainframe Computers from Japan that I used to install.

The silica gel bags saved MOST but not all of the 'winter damp' (we are NOT talking leaks here) the damp you get in an unheated building/Motorhome in the depths of winter.

With 1 & 2 I can leave the Van 'Ready to go' with all bedding etc., in situ.

Oh yes, don't forget our little furry friends who just love a heated outside 'Shed' with no humans. A Rodent screecher seems to keep them away. Good Luck !

:D