PatLynn Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 Hi to all, We've just given our 'van a good clean up and noticed a nasty chip in the rear of our van on the white GRP. Looks as though a stone has really hit it - it is not far from being a hole about a centimetre across with the GRP cracked into it. As a quick fix we've used a little bit of cotton wool to prevent the GRP from falling out and covered it over with white insulation tape in case water gets in. Anyone know if this can be easily repaired or are we in for a horrible bill? Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davenewellhome Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 A decent body shop should be able to fill and touch up paintwork to make an invisible repair but expect to pay a couple of hundred quid or perhaps more. The major cost is in the labour. If you're in the midlands I'd suggest you try Cannock Resprays, they're a small but highly regarded specialist bodyshop run by a motorhome owner. D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corky 8 Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 Hi, there is a compound called Gelcoat filler, I used it on my fishing boat (GRP) same as Motorhomes, hope its of Help Corky ps ..most marine agents/shops sell it http://www.caravanadditions.co.uk/acatalog/Maintenance_Products.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatLynn Posted January 1, 2008 Author Share Posted January 1, 2008 Many thanks for the replies guys - think we might try the cheaper option of the gel coat filler first - this side of Christmas rather necessary! Thank for the web link - worked a treat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grocer jack Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Try someone like "Chips Away". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tracker Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 I repaired a similar hole caused by some idiot reversing into a tree stump (me!) by taking away all the loose damaged bits, cleaning out any frayed bits, then filling with flexible polyester filler, rubbing down first with coarse then fine wet and dry, then refilling the missed bits and rubbing down again before masking up the surrounding area and lights before spraying with firstly a primer then a matching top coat aerosol. I was lucky as my Autotrail uses the same colour as the Fiat cab white for the conversion. Getting the right colour may be an issue for you but a motor factor should be able to match and then mix you a small tin of brush on synthetic paint to use if all else fails. It will not give as good a result as spraying (unless you are a bad sprayer!) but if the area is not too conspicuous you might just get away with it. I would just say that I have been repairing cars and bodywork, as an amateur and only as and when required, for over 40 years and if you are a beginner you may find that several attempts are needed to get it right. The final result depends totally on the preparation and you must get the repaired surface to a perfectly smooth and blemish free standard before applying paint. You will soon see how good your preparation was when the paint goes on but at least you can wet and dry it off again to get a better finish. If the panel is badly split or has loose bits, you can reinforce it by using fibreglass matting and resin on the rear of the panel to reinforce it. This will help prevent the finished filler breaking loose from vibration. If you feel like having a go yourself and if I've missed anything just ask. Good luck. PS I grew up in the 'make do and mend' era and old habits die hard! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W3526602 Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Doh! Just stick a GB plate, or something similar but not too naff, over it. 602 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tracker Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Small grilles - no, not a cooker - similar to fridge vents only - er - smaller are available from caravan accessory shops and these can be used to good effect to cover minor dents and gouges and can even be 'paired' to make each side of the van look the same! Not very good on curved surfaces though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Kirby Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 Tracker - 2008-01-02 1:01 PM I repaired a similar hole caused by some idiot reversing into a tree stump (me!) by taking away all the loose damaged bits, cleaning out any frayed bits, then filling with flexible polyester filler, rubbing down first with coarse then fine wet and dry, then refilling the missed bits and rubbing down again before masking up the surrounding area and lights before spraying with firstly a primer then a matching top coat aerosol. I was lucky as my Autotrail uses the same colour as the Fiat cab white for the conversion. Getting the right colour may be an issue for you but a motor factor should be able to match and then mix you a small tin of brush on synthetic paint to use if all else fails. It will not give as good a result as spraying (unless you are a bad sprayer!) but if the area is not too conspicuous you might just get away with it. I would just say that I have been repairing cars and bodywork, as an amateur and only as and when required, for over 40 years and if you are a beginner you may find that several attempts are needed to get it right. The final result depends totally on the preparation and you must get the repaired surface to a perfectly smooth and blemish free standard before applying paint. You will soon see how good your preparation was when the paint goes on but at least you can wet and dry it off again to get a better finish. If the panel is badly split or has loose bits, you can reinforce it by using fibreglass matting and resin on the rear of the panel to reinforce it. This will help prevent the finished filler breaking loose from vibration. If you feel like having a go yourself and if I've missed anything just ask. Good luck. PS I grew up in the 'make do and mend' era and old habits die hard! Spot on, I reckon! Chips away etc are generally expensive. The gel coat filler won't match the existing colour. Whites are a veritable pig: there are hundreds of them and they all look white until you use the wrong one for repair! Do as Tracker says, treat the minimum area necessary to bring the surface up to match the surrounding. Use Plastic Padding in a Tube from Halfords or wherever (you need the smooth stuff, not the type with fibres mixed in), and use a medium grade wet and dry (Halfords again) to smooth it down to match the panel contour. Find out what actual colour the rear panel is, if you can. If white, it may well be the vehicle cab colour that has been used. The code for the original colour should be on a plate somewhere under the bonnet, the vehicle manual should say where. You can get little pots of brushing cellulose from Halfords mixed to order for any standard car colour. Forget the touch in sticks or spray cans, you get more for less cost in the pots, and it lasts for ages with the top on. For a small area I wouldn't even bother with a primer. Just go straight on with a soft artist's brush. Apply two to three thinnish coats, allowing to dry thoroughly between coats, then attack it again with the wet and dry. Don't cover too large an area, keep as close as possible to the filler, with a small margin of overlap all around. You'll soon see where the surface isn't quite right: aim to remove most of the paint this time around. Be careful not to "sand" too far onto the undamaged surrounding paint. It'll only make the final, finishing, stage more of a fag! You should now have a really smooth surface; if not just fill any small irregularities/pinholes with a bit more plastic padding, then apply another coat of the paint and smooth off again. When completely satisfied with the surface, over-paint three thin coats of the paint as smoothly as possible, and allow to dry thoroughly (this may mean leaving it overnight- you need it to have fully hardened) . Then use the finest grade of wet and dry very carefully to just remove any visible brush strokes and feather the edges of the hand painted area into the original surface. When this all looks good, use something like Auto-Glym Paint Renovator to restore the shine, working onto the surrounding area to remove any sanding scuffs for the original paint. It does take time, but with care (and the right colour!) the result will be the nearest achievable to an invisible repair, and only you will ever be able to see where it was. It'll probably cost around £20 for all materials.Just a word on wet and dry. It is far better used wet: if possible supported on a cork "sandpaper" block to keep the surface even. Use luke warm water, to which add a trace of washing up liquid. This acts as a lubricant and reduces the tendency of the abrasive to "stick" to the surface. Don't use too much pressure, fast and light is best. Keep used sheets, they lose their cutting ability but are great for feathering and finishing. When fresh, the stuff cuts very fast, so be careful or you'll be through the paint in no time and making depressions in the filler! This is why you must be careful not to "over-sand" the surrounding area. The medium grade leaves scratches which are too deep for the finishing polish to take out. Your last passes with the wet and dry need to be with a well used sheet of the finest grade, with which you should remove any visible scratching from the whole area of the repair. You'll need to sand a bit, then dry it off with kitchen towel to inspect the surface, then sand again, until you achieve a smooth, completely matt surface, with no visible scratches. When you achieve that, start the polishing. It may take a while of applying and some fairly vigorous rubbing - and do polish off and view the result from time to time - but once the gloss is restored the reflections will disguise any remaining blemishes and, if you're still not quite happy, leave it until the weather gets warmer and give it another treatment then. Courage: you can do this, and it will work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tracker Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 I would agree with Brian's comments. I only used a primer to help the top coat better adhere to the plastic surface - and I already had some white primer in the garage! Aerosol cans are more expensive that pots of paint but unless it is a big area you will only need less than one can full and once you have mastered the gentle art of preventing runs by not applying too many passes between drying time it does give a far better finish. To get a good result wet and dry paper MUST be used wet and on a block to maintain a level surface. If it is just the bumper you could even consider spraying the whole bumper with a very close match that might show on a patch but would blend well on a whole panel. Nothing much to lose because if you cock it up a body shop can easily put it right and you will have had some fun and learnt a lot by doing it yourself. But if it goes right you can take great pride in saying to all and sundry - 'look you can't even see the join and I did that all by myself!' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALAN G Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 gel coat is fine but you need time and warm weather as I found the gel was slow to lose its sticky feel before it could be rubbed down again. I bought my kit for about £20 from a boat repair yard. To buy a colouring kit to get the correct white would have been another £20, so I sprayed the finished repair with Peugeot Blanco paint. I used half the kit to repair the damage which was over about 2 feet. My son has the rest to repair his race car. As the repair was on the top of the side wall it took quite a time to get the moulded curve to the right shape. I would cover the damage, as suggested, with anything that seals, until the warm weather arrives. Moral 1: Dont argue with the hard bits on P&O ferries. Moral 2: White waterproof tape from B&Q in your toolbox is vital. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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