parkmoy Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 Anyone used Noisekiller or other firms for soundproofing kits? If so, did it make a big difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 The answer is YES but not a lot. A pal of mine used it on his last 'van but has not bothered with the one he has now, he recond not worth all the effort and expence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 Hi parkmoy, Yes we have used it (them?) on our van and it made a very big difference, you can hear the radio at sensible levels at speed and you can hold a conversation at a sensible level with your passengers when cruising at 70mph. Our friends with the same age and make of van also did theirs after seeing the imporovement with ours and have found the same benefits. However it does depend a lot on the age of your van as newer vans already have better insulation so the difference is not quite so marked as earlier models. So in the case of the sevel chassis, I would say if it is pre 2000 face lift then there is the probability it will help enormously, if it is 2000 to 2006 it may make a marginal difference post 2006 probably no difference at all. In our case it was definately worthwhile and money well spent. Bas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkmoy Posted January 14, 2008 Author Share Posted January 14, 2008 Thanks for the replies. It doesn't seem a popular option, at least on the more modern vans. Mine's 2001, not too noisy but room for improvement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tracker Posted January 14, 2008 Share Posted January 14, 2008 The Transit was never the quietest of engines and I would expect any added insulation to help. Whether you need to go to the expense of a kit is another matter. Part of Noisekiller's kit is a lead lined blanket which sits on top of the engine and whilst it might well be OK I am not too keen on restricting any airflow around any engine. A hunt around accessory shops and the internet should produce suppliers of fire retardant felt about half inch thick and with a black coated outer side, available by the square meter, as well as a suitable adhesive. This is ideal for under the bonnet (stuck firmly to the under side and in addition to any existing insulation) and any well ventilated 'getatable' bulkhead and inner wing areas. There is also a heavy double skinned rubber type of insulation material, about quarter inch thick, and this works better on the cab floor under the carpet and pushed up the inner bulkhead as far as you can get it. It too works better when glued in place to ensure firm contact with the metal which also helps reduce drumming. Any thicker on the floor and the carpet might well not refit on top of it - in fact you might well struggle anyway! Also available are thin sticky backed anti vibration and drumming pads for the difficult to access bits like inner door panels but I am not convinced they make a lot of difference on the road? Extra thick carpet on the caravan floor and in the lockers will help a little and will also help cold toe syndrome! Before you start make sure all bulkhead grommets are firmly in place in the engine bay. Noise can be very intrusive through a surprisingly small hole! I tend to make suitable sized 'patches' of sticky backed pad and, with a slot partway, fit these over any suspect grommets. A dollop of dum dum type body mastic around where cables pass through will also help. With a little effort and ingenuity and not a lot of cost you should be able to get a noticeable improvement but the newer the van the harder it is to get it quieter as makers seem to have improved this aspect in recent years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parkmoy Posted June 8, 2008 Author Share Posted June 8, 2008 Just to round off the thread, I went for the Noisekiller kit at £155. Best money I ever spent! Made a tremendous difference to the noise levels, I could hardly believe the improvement and I didn't think it was too bad to start with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davenewellhome Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 Noisekiller usually comes highly reccomended but I have heard of one or two people who reckon it didn't make a significant difference. One possible reason is that often motorcaravan converters remove grommets from the engine bay/cab bulkhead and these open holes can let a ridiculous amount of noise in. Check that there are no open holes between the engine bay and cab first. D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthur49 Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Apologies for resurrecting an old thread but looks like the most recent. Our van is PVC on 2010 Peugeot 2.2 6 speed and seems to be noisier than previous x250 Ducato base we had. Its engine noise mainly. Van is going in to local Pug dealer for a couple of issues to be checked/fixed including checking that exhaust is not leaking (only 2500 miles on clock but part of 'noise' sounds like exhaust leaking - maybe its the turbo?) Anyway has anyone any updates on using Noisekiller kit since this thread was last used? (www. noisekiller.co.uk) Arthur PS checked engine/cab for holes yesterday......... none Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tracker Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Best way to check for holes is at night with an accomplice shining a torch from outside and from all reachable angles under the bonnet. Any hole no matter how small will show up. Fitted carpet in the habitation area and under all the floor lockers helps subdue road and tyre noise. Are the doors - cab and caravan - all shutting properly. On some previous model Boxers the cab doors don't compress onto the rubber door seal in places and this lets in a lot of noise - and cold air. Easily found by the torch method! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthur49 Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Thanks Tracker. No gaps at doors, they fit well Arthur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1footinthegrave Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Try not to treat this as a flippant comment, but I'm certain our UK road surfaces are a lot to blame. In our 2003 PVC 2.8 jtd the radio rarely if ever gets turned on in the UK unless screwed to an uncomfortable volume, leaving Calais is always a revelation, as is travelling on most main routes in France on the impact of, or should I say lack of road noise. Our van more resembles a car driven in the UK for noise levels, and cruising at 60/70 the radio / cd on at a very comfortable volume becomes the norm. Has anyone else noticed this ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1footinthegrave Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Apparently not then ! ! ! :-S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Uzzell Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 1footinthegrave - 2011-05-29 1:36 PM Try not to treat this as a flippant comment, but I'm certain our UK road surfaces are a lot to blame. In our 2003 PVC 2.8 jtd the radio rarely if ever gets turned on in the UK unless screwed to an uncomfortable volume, leaving Calais is always a revelation, as is travelling on most main routes in France on the impact of, or should I say lack of road noise. Our van more resembles a car driven in the UK for noise levels, and cruising at 60/70 the radio / cd on at a very comfortable volume becomes the norm. Has anyone else noticed this ? Yes, some UK road surfaces produce an appalling amount of tyre noise, though arthur49's noise problem is apparently more engine-related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthur49 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Thank you for all input above. Just installed Noisekiller full kit on Peugeot 2.2 6 speed 2010 model. Not cheap at £205 but has made a significant improvement to noise levels. No way to measure actual db improvement, sorry. Instructions could be better eg "unscrew door card...". Door card is held on by hidden clips and care needed to prise out. Is it worth it? For us, yes. Arthur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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