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Blower speed problem


Mark Wilkes

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Mark has said that his vehicle is a 2007 Citroen Relay.

 

http://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk/forums/Motorhomes/Motorhome-Matters/Hello-to-all/47326/

 

This might mean that it is ‘X250’-based or the preceding model, though it’s quite possible that the heater-blower control is the same for both.

 

A Relay’s heater should be the same as a Peugeot Boxer’s, so this link may be relevant

 

http://www.heaterblowerresistor.co.uk/peugeotboxerbipperheaterresistor.html

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Hi, sounds like the switch (big round thing) or the resistors have gone (I think that's what they call them) anyway they reduce the power going to the motor in steps so top speed has no resister in the line They could be anywhere, mounted on the motor, switch or a circuit board somewhere. Depends on the year of the vehicle as it is still being made and production started in the

early eighties as the C25 (Citreon 2.5 Ton) name change to Relay in '98 or there abouts. The C25 replaced the ealier Citreon H, 1 ton (The corrugated shed) wish I had one now. Sorry gone off subject. Hope that helps

ps I must have posted just after you Derek.

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paul2 - 2017-07-07 11:04 AM

 

I think Derek has the answer in his second link we had this problem on Fiat Doblo's and Peugeot Bipper's.

Paul

yep that looks like it. The pic of the melting resister pack might also point to a problem of a worn electric fan motor. Iv'e seen the fusebox by-passed for the heater (late '90's Ducato) and fitted with a blade line fuse. This worked ok on speeds 1 and 2, on 3 it made the fuse holder a little warm and on 4 it started to melt the plastic part of the blade fuse which is what had happened in the fuse box. Remedy was new contacts and correct fuse replaced in the original fuse box, (located in the glove box) and re connected. And a new heater motor, as the worn motor was pulling more power than the system was designed to take.

The motor was £70 from a van dealer if i remember correctly.

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The consensus is under/behind the passenger side glovebox (for the X/250). (There are a few posts on here giving that info, but the closest I can get to a description and picture are here:

 

http://www.autosleeper-ownersforum.com/t6790-heater-blower

 

...and you need to read an scroll down, as the top picture is for an X244).

 

They're normally set into the heater cold-air intake to provide some cooling in use, and you'll undoubtedly have to remove a couple of screws to get the resistor out.

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On some cars the cause of the unit burning out is attributed to failure to replace the Cabin Filter which clogs up reducing the cooling airflow.

 

No idea if this is your issue, but maybe check the Cabin Filter, if fitted, and for Leaves or other debris slowing down the airflow while you are in there?

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just seen your thread and glad your managed to find the resistor. We had a similar problem when we got our van (at 5 years old), and there was more to it than just the resistor.

 

If you haven't already I would also check and change the cabin air filter - it's behind the back of the central storage bin. When this get's clogged the fan has to work harder to maintain its target speed - which is sensed/controlled by the resistor in the airflow - and this pulls more current through the resistor circuit (in positions 1, 2 and 3*). This leads to a higher current through all the wiring, potentially leading to an overheat situation in the connector plug (as per photos attached). In some cases this could lead to a fire - as has been seen in other vehicles (where the fuse has been bypassed without investigation/rectification of the root cause). If you look and find an overheated connector plug, I'd suggest replacing or rewiring it, but changing the resistor without changing the pollen filter could still leave you with a problem down the line.

 

(* In position 0 the fan is off and there is no current, and in position 4 it is 'all-out', so it by-passes the resistor circuit anyway. This will be why you can use 0 and 4, but not 1, 2, and 3).

 

Hope that helps!

 

 

IMG_9876.jpg.8a3d522b24020477cf083a0336fd9357.jpg

IMG_9878.jpg.59706915010521c0f7c43c91613793cd.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

Hi

 

I wonder if anyone has a suggestion OTHER than the blower motor resistor or thermal fuse for the heater not working on positions 1,2,3 (2015 Euro V Ducato). This issue occurred sometime ago, but I have only today got a look at it.

 

The blower motor resistor is in good condition the thermal fuse is fine and the resistances for the three resistors make sense. To test further, I put the fan on position 1, and then shorted between the common and each output on the resistor. One of them should have made the fan spin at full speed. Unfortunately it did not! This points the finger elsewhere - eg its not the blower motor resistors that have failed.

 

The Fan appears to be switched on the -ve 12V, common feed into the blower resistor is ground, the three outputs must go to the fan switch (or perhaps relays?), the position 4 on the motor must be ground via zero resistance.

 

I buzzed between the common -ve input to the fan resistor pack, and the chassis ground, zero ohms or as good as (as expected).

 

I am assuming its the fan switch now. Maybe someone has taken apart their dash and can give me some tips re getting behind the fan switch?!

 

Nigel

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